Hello welcome to Enots engineering I'm Alan
today I'm looking at a 2-inch boring head which just arrived from Bang good
We will open this up have a look at what's in the kit
Thats the kit the boring head
Now let me just say that I get these from bang good free
In exchange that I do a review on them
I'm not pressurized to say it's good if it's rubbish so my review is just my
personal opinion on the parts
This is the boring head kit you get 9 boring bars
they all have the same tip on the end the same brazed tip the difference
between them is the length of the shank and the thickness
So if you're using the short one it's thinner if you're using the longer one its a thicker shank
but today I'll use the short one because I only need to go 15mm deep into the aluminium
The boring head comes the plastic box you get 9 boring tools with this kit
an arbor this is an R8 arbor and the head the arborr just screws on
so you can change the arbor you can buy the arbors separate and the boring head separates
and the tools separate so if you needed a different Arbor
it would probably be best to buy to kit separate.
I don't know why they don't do to kit with three different arbor so you could choose the kit that suits you
you can buy the arbor they come like this this is another R8 Arbor exactly the same as what's in the kit
It says here R8 1 1/2 18 UNF which is this end and the other end is
7/16 20 UNF which is your drawbar end
The kit comes with three allen keys the keys are o adjust grub screws
To tighten up the slide for these grub screws which hold the tool and for adjusting the cut
by turning the screw here
I think they've done some value engineering on this because
traditionally you would have had a gib strip in here
these three screws would have tightened up onto the gib strip and lock the head
so what they've done on here is they've cut of slot and the side
so the grub screws push against this black part here and this pushes over to lock the head
so each division is 0.01mm
a thread in the bottom is 11/2" 18 UNF you have across bore there where you can put the cutting tool in
and you have two positions on the top to fit the the boring tools
now looking at the finish the ground finishes is good
all the bores are ground the dovetails are ground
if you look closely at dial here one complete turn
of this dial is half a millimeter and that's divided into 0.01mm
each division 0.01 which is a lot finer than you get on your lathe
so this is a very fine thread compared to that and you can machine the bore a lot more accurately
so you can buy the head separate you can buy the tool separate
and you can buy the arbors separate but if you buy this kit you get the R8
what I need to do now is bore the bearing bares on the rotary head plate
so let's take this over to the milling machine set the Machine up and the boring head and see how it performs
the first thing I want to do is I'm taking this board
which I used on a pedestal drill with my compound table
I've drilled a hole in it so it fits over the t-bolt
this board it has piece of wood each side on the bottom the wood on this side overlaps the board
so I can put the board on the machine push up up against the edge of the table
so I know that this face is parallel with the table
this is the aluminium I needs a machine and this
is the hole I need to bore out for the bearing I can put this onto the table
push it up against the edge and I know that this is square then to the table
but before I do that I need to machine on along this front and back along there to give me the 90 degree position
so I know this board is suitable to use on the milling machine
at the moment it's made for a different compound slide so I will machine that
for this job it doesn't need to be square because I'm picking up on the hole but while I've got it on
I will machine it so I know that when I come to do another job the edges are square to the table
see in this corner I've gon in with the cutter so the corners taken out so
there's no chance of it snagging on this edge and it's machine the wood on both sides
I'll just use the centre to line that up so I'm not sure how accurate that will be
so what I'll do is just double checked it by putting a dowel in the chuck you can see that goes straight in there
so I'm happy with that
so what I will do now is lock the two axes on the table X and Y
The first Allen key will slacken off the side there
and the second one will put the cut on
so I'm turning this clockwise and it's pushing the tool out
you can see at the moment the tool is in this position which is in the centre hole
so I need to move the tool into the outer one and screw this back
across so that can pick up the bore again
I've just use the tool to score around there to see what size it will go to
here's the bearing you can see when I line the bearing up it will go a lot bigger than the bearing is
so I should be able to do that
what I've done with the tool I've come down on top of the plate zeroed my
depth gauge gone down 12mm and set the stop at 12mm
now I've not used this automatic stop on here before so I don't know how accurate it is
so we'll see
that bearing just drops onto the lead and then we're not tap it in I know it's square
I'm impressed with the accuracy you can get the only thing I need to do now is tidy the face up
I've fitted the bearings it's fitted nicely into the bore
so that ones done and I have to do the same thing all over again on the other plate
I've used my Center to find the center of the hole I've moved the table so it lines up and
that goes straight into the center and I've locked my table up the parts locked up
that's ready for drilling and boring
44mm
well that's a two inch boring head I'm very impressed with the accuracy you can get
the kit comes complete with an R8 arbor and nine piece carbide cutter set
when cutting the aluminium the finish was really good
the only downside would be if you're like me cutting down to a shoulder
because the tool tips are pointed as you cut down to a shoulder you tend to get a series of grooves
so you could do it a tool that just is a flat bottom and you can just
run it around the bottom of the shoulder to finish it off
so the last job on this plate I've fitted the bearing I've moved it now so that I'm drilling a hole here
to fit the cable adapter that we made just needs a hole diameter of 10mm
first job is to centre drill the hole
so this is the the plate that we've just finished and the whole I can take my
cable thread them through here and on this side we'll just put the
spring washer on
and the nut
the next job is to put the socket on ready for the stepper motor
well that's it for today hope that was useful
hope you enjoyed it and we'll see you next time
On Enots engineering