Hello. John Talley here with Partzilla.com. Today we're going to be
replacing the front wheel wheel bearings and the seals on our 2007 Honda Goldwing
GL 1800A. Now if you're riding along and you're starting to feel a little bit of
shimmy in the front end, maybe a clicking sound you can actually hear and feel
through your handlebars? Chances are your bearings probably need to be looked at.
Jack up the front end see if you can rock that wheel. If it moves, well, this is
something you need to take care of. So let's cruise over to the table, let me
show you some of the tools that we're gonna need to pull this off. Alright
basically you need a pretty well-stocked toolbox. A good 3/8 ratchet, an assortment
of sockets. Want to make sure you've got a 22. Then on the Allen side, you need at least
a 4 through a 6 millimeter as well as this Torx T40. A couple of different
screwdrivers, hammer, and an assortment of wrenches. Now, it's going to be important that
you pick up some type of extractor to get those bearings out. So you may want
to look into buying one of these. Also, you're gonna need a good driver set to
push in the new bearings as well as the seals. Now let's talk about the parts for
a second. Basically there's two bearings, but don't let your eyes fool you. Each one of
these is actually one bearing. Then you're going to have a set of seals and
notice that one side is different than the other so there's going to be two
part numbers. Now if you're having trouble coming up with a parts list for
your machine, look at that description there's a little arrow over to the right
right beside the description that's going to take you to the parts list that
we ended up using on this machine should we have to add anything to it. Now if
your machine isn't exactly like the one that I'm working on, then you need to go
to Partzilla.com. It's very easy to use. There you'll need to select the
manufacturer, the category, the year, and then the model. At that point you're
gonna see all the different components for your particular machine to make sure
that you're going to get the right part. Now if you're still having a little bit
of trouble, give us a call at one eight seven seven four seven three four five
nine five. We'll be glad to help get you the correct part for your machine and
get it to you quickly. So once you've got your parts and your tools together we
go over to the machine and get it done. So let's go.
Alright guys, before we dive into this, first they order a business is to go
ahead and bring the machine up, get something to support the front end
of the machine and then actually anchor down all four corners because I don't
want this thing falling on me. Alright, that should hold it still, so let's go
ahead and get the upper fender off. These first ones are just a 5 millimeter Allen.
Do yourself a favor when you're taking this apart. Try to leave them together
because there's a couple of different lengths that we're gonna run into and
designs as we're pulling this apart. So keep them all grouped together. Alright,
next we want to get our calipers off, and you'll notice that it's different one
side to the other. Over here it's just going to be a pair of 12 millimeters. On
the other side, let's go ahead and get the brake pads out of the caliper.
That way it'll clear the rotor. Just remove that little plastic stopper and
then we're going after that Allen on the inside, and that is a five millimeter.
Should just drop out. Now we can go and remove that six millimeter Allen at the
bottom and then that T40 Torx at the top.
Alright now we can remove that 22 millimeter axle nut. Then we can loosen
up our pinch bolts on either side. Don't have to remove them, just loosen them up.
Those are 12 millimeters. Pull the axle out. Just put a screwdriver into our axle,
lift up on the tire a little bit, and then we should be able to wiggle it out.
So go ahead and get these two spacers out. Alright, let's get this over to our
teardown bench get those seals and the bearings knocked out. Let's start by
getting these seals out. Go ahead and do both sides. Be careful-- don't pry down
against that little speed wheel because it will snap. Now go ahead and put it up
on a couple of boards. So what we're going to be doing here is taking this
tool, inserting it, expanding it out. And we want that edge to grab on that part
of the bearing. What I'm gonna do here is set or mark where my depth should be.
Just make it a little bit easier to line everything up. The other thing I have to take
into account is the travel. I mean you want to have enough threads in there
to where won't strip. You need to have enough left to where it's got room to pull up.
Now, move those out. That's not where we want to pull from but I've got to go
ahead and get it set and then we'll bring the arms in when I have more room.
Now we're going to expand it out and grab the inner race of the bearing.
Alright I think she's grabbing it now. Back this off a few turns, bring our arms in.
Now let's see if we can pull her through. That's actually a good sound. Now Partzilla,
we carry a whole bunch of different makes and models of tools and
Honda actually makes one to do this particular procedure to this particular
machine. I'm not real fan of buying one special
tool that will only work on one motorcycle. This particular set here-- and
I know it's kind of pricey-- you'll be glad that you invested the money in it
because it has a wide range of different sized bearings that it can pull, whereas
the Honda, it only works on this one bearing. Now, with this out the way, we can
go ahead and just knock out the other side. Just find a socket roughly the same
diameter as this center section. But do use a dead blow hammer to do this
otherwise you're gonna mar up the end of your extension. There it goes. Now, we
just need to drive in the new ones. Alright, let's start with the right side,
and that's the side that has your pulsar core. And once again make sure you've got
wood up under the edge of the tire, because we don't want to damage the rotor or the
rim itself. So we're gonna start by driving it all the way in until it is
completely and fully seated in the hub. We're gonna be using the driver set to
do this. We want to pick one that of course is inside the outer diameter, but
not so far in where it doesn't catch on that outside edge
because if you just drive it from that center section, you're gonna end up
knocking it through and damaging the bearings. So you want to be on that outer
lip but just not past it. So when you're doing this, make sure you're on it square
so you don't want to try to drive it in at an angle. It's not going to end well
for you. And when we get it to bottom out you will notice that the strikes against
the driver will have a different sound to it. That way you know you bottomed out.
That's it. That is it. While we're on this side, let's go ahead and put our seal in.
I just wanted to go and get a layer of grease on the inside.
Do not get it on the outside. You just want it even with the outside of the hub.
I think that's got it. Now let's do the other side. Now do not forget to put in
your collar. And the reason you wanted to put the right bearing in first is that
if you look down in here you'll actually notice that the bottom side of the hub
is the same diameter as the outside of this. That is going to keep it centered
when you put in the second bearing. See there's a lot of play there, but it'll
keep it centered when you do the right side first, then you come around and do
the left. Just remember that the right side you can identify it because it has
that ring on the inside which they call a pulsar core. Yeah. Same setup. Well that
looks good. And grease up our other seal then we'll drive it in. That looks good.
Alright we're done with these, let's get it put back on the machine. Speed sensor
ring on that side. Get our spacers in. I've got to center that spacer. There
we go.
Bring it up, slide that axle through so we can get her to twist back in there. There we go.
Alright we've got it bottomed out against this other side, so temporarily I
want to go ahead and tighten down the left side pinch bolts. Now we want to put
on the axle nut and then get it torqued down. We're gonna take it to 44
foot-pounds. Next we can go ahead and torque the
right side pinch bolts to 16 foot-pounds. Let's go back over to the left and I
want to release those because I want to show you something here. There's a line
that needs to be a reference point to make sure that these forks are parallel.
But each machine's going to be a little bit different. What you want to do
is pull against it as far as you can and then push with the same amount of
pressure in. And then between those two points that's where you want it. You want
to pick that midpoint. Now it may end up being right on that line just like it
was designed to be, but I've actually seen these machines to where that actual
center point may be the width of the line out or it may be the width of the
line in. That one little change down here can make a whole big difference as far
as it binding up up top. You can usually tell a machine that's a little bit out
of whack when it's sitting on its side stand if you lift up on it on the
handlebars just a little bit and it stays there? There's too much diction in
the fork. They should go back down to a natural resting position. So let's take a
look at this one see what we've got. Alright that's a little bit past the
line and that's a little bit on the inside and maybe a line and a half. So
the midpoint should be about right there. Now that we found that midpoint, we can
go ahead and torque these down to 16 foot-pounds. Alright let's start
getting our calipers mounted up, get our brake pads in there get that brake pin
in. Now if you need detailed instructions on you know remounting the the brake
shoes we have a video that covers that so go check it out.
Gonna leave these on loose until I get the front section put on. Okay the last piece
that needs to go on is this cross brace and I'm actually not going to use the
one that came off in the machine. I'm gonna tell you why. This one is what they
call just a two-piece, and it just clamps it and it forces the forks to go to
whatever measurement that it's set at and that's not good as we were
discussing the lower section how important that adjustment is. So the kind
that you want to go with is one that is actually adjustable left to right and
that's what I'm gonna use. So when you're putting this one together I'm actually
loosening up the left and right to where it has some play. And take off the end caps,
tighten those down, then we go in and tighten down the center section. You want
the longer one to go up front, shorter one in the back. Same thing for
the other side. Everybody started so let's get these tightened down. Now we
can tighten down that center section and that'll finish it up. So now it doesn't have
any-- it's not forcing the forks. It's actually just holding them in place
now. Alright guys that pretty much wraps this one up. Got those bearings and
new seals in, and I think she's gonna be good to go for a good while longer. Well
listen, if you need any parts for your machine won't you come see us at
Partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of. If you like what you see, hit
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next. We just want to say thank you for shopping here with us at Partzilla and we will see you in the next video. Have a great day.