hey guys welcome back to the channel so today i'm going to be installing an
after cooler on my 60 gallon ingersoll rand air compressor using this d-rel
oil cooler that i bought on amazon so stay tuned
so welcome back to the channel if you guys checked out one of my earlier videos i had acquired the 60
gallon air compressor for my job they were throwing it out because they didn't need it
anymore so i basically refurbed it so on a recent video i did a hydro test on that tank to make sure
that it can hold pressure up to 270 psi just in case there was any corrosion or rust that might
have damaged the tank or damaged the inside of the tank to make sure that there was no explosions or
potential for explosion when i put the tank back into service so after doing a little bit
more research i discovered that a lot of people install after coolers on their air compressors to
keep the air dry the d-rail 15-300 model is one of the preferred ones that's pretty affordable
it's like 60 to 65 depending on where you buy it and this thing does a really good job from all
the people i've seen online do it so today we're going to go ahead and install it i'll show you all
the parts i'm going to use over here in a second but we'll go ahead and get this mounted on there
cut some lines flare some lines and get it all installed so over here i've got all the parts and
tools i'm going to need for this project so i've got the 15 300 oil cooler right here with the 8
am fittings which is basically half inch flares so over here i've got the water filter and automatic
drain valve i've got the mounting kit to mount this to my shroud over there then i've got all
the different flare fittings some new half inch aluminum tube you could use copper tube if you
want to also so basically for my setup i've got 5 8 tube over there coming out of a compressor into
a tank but i need to convert it down to half inch almost impossible to find flare fittings
to go from a half inch to 5 8 inch i'm using some compression fittings from 5 8 to one half which is
not ideal but it'll work all the other an fittings i'm just using half inch flare i needed a half
inch straight and a half inch elbow right here to come out of this thing and into the tank and then
i've got my flare tools right here i've got a double flare kit right here because i want to
use double flares to make it more robust and over here is my filter setup for the air coming out of
the tank and then my half inch service port that goes from the tank into that filter set right here
and then from there i'll just put a regular quick connect to my hoses from there if you guys want
a list of all the different fittings and sizes i need for my setup go check out the links down in
the description i'll show you all the parts i use everything that i bought on amazon or on ebay or
at lowe's and you can buy this stuff yourself and do this project yourself so over here on the tank
here's my discharge line from the compressor down to the tank and what i'm going to do is i'm going
to cut it right here where it makes this little l turn right here so this bottom one that goes into
the tank is going to go into that compression fit from 5 8 down to one half i'm going to mount the
water drain and filter right here so back here i'm going to mount the d-rail onto this shroud
right here and i'm going to use the pulley as like a natural fan when this thing's running
to pull the air across that d-rail to do the heat exchange once it comes out of that d-rail
i'm going to have it loop around over here it's going to go around the tank and into the filter
that's going to be mounted right here and that's going to be the water drain that collect before
it goes into the tank so i was trying to cut this on the actual compressor but i didn't
have enough room so i take the whole pipe off so i can cut it on the table to make it easier
all right so i cleaned up my cuts i cleaned off the old paint there i deburred the holes
so that compression fit gets a good grab here and i cleaned off the paint on this side where it goes
into the compressor and into the tank to make sure when i put my thread lock on here that it
holds pretty well all right looks like we ran into a little bit of problem this thing is basically
seized on there it won't move no matter how hard i try i don't want to risk breaking it because
it is kind of hollow inside here if you put too much force it might snap this thing inside and
i'll be stuck so what i'm going to do now i'm going to actually just thread this thing in
and see if i can bend this thing up and maybe aim this thing upward and then hopefully that works
all right i was able to bend this right around this corner right here i started crushing so i
ended up using that flaring tool clamp and i just clamped it along the edge to kind of get the thing
back so it's sort of a mineral bin now it's kind of ugly but once i get this back on i'll probably
just coat this with some black paint to hide all this but this should be able to mount to there
now and kind of bend back around so i can connect it to the d-rail so i went ahead and pulled the
shroud off the actual compressor to make it easier to work i already marked where i want to mount
this thing so what i'm going to do is basically put it onto here like that so right here is where
the fan is gonna be or the the pulley and i'm gonna mount it with these guys right here so
they're just basically zip ties actually mount behind the grille here and they go right there
and then they go actually through the coil here you can see you see right through the coil so
you have to actually go through there it's best to probably line it up with one of these 16 fins that
go across here and that way it supports it on the actual tube right here instead of actual the fin
here and then once you do that it comes with these springs and then some little tape here to put on
either side to kind of protect the coil and then you put these on the other end to hold them in
we got everything mounted put the springs on here with these stoppers these stoppers are
kind of weak they keep on popping out if you put too much pressure on them so i just put
them right where it was getting some tension on the springs which is good enough to hold it on
i might end up putting like a tie strap up here just to hold it up in case
it does pop out for any reason but i think the springs and then these things
should work fine i just cut them down once i put it on there and finalize everything
so the next thing i'm gonna do i'm gonna mount this thing on the side of the tank there
luckily over here there's already two holes that are here so i'm gonna use
one of those holes i'm gonna drill a second one to fit the bracket on
and then mount that there you basically want to mount it a little bit lower than the output of the
cooler so that way gravity naturally causes the moisture to go down and into this thing
now that we got the water separator mounted on here i'm gonna go ahead and put in the
fittings on here so i can put my piping on later instead of using teflon i'm gonna use this 545
loctite thread sealant which is probably a better sealant than the regular teflon
you can use teflon if you want but i'd rather use this on all my fittings anyways
i got everything in as tight as i could with any of these fittings
always want to tighten it down as much as you can especially since you're sealing it so it
doesn't leak i've had it in the past where i tightened it just hand tightened and it ended
up leaking so just make sure you tighten it and this one i had to really force it because
i needed the angle to come outwards so i could loop it back into that other spot over here
all right so next thing i need to do is measure how much of this i need and then cut it down
and then start flaring the edges and getting everything mounted up here with all the fittings
so once you get this thing cut you use the little triangle thing on here to kind of
open up the flare a little bit because when you squeeze it down you actually make it a
little bit smaller so you just want to de-burr this and get it all cleaned up you could use a
pair of needle nose to do the same thing also the needle nose might open it up a little bit easier
once you clean that up we can start flaring it out right there before we bend it you want to put it
the fittings in here and just flare the edges that you need to that way it's easier because you don't
want to put these flare fittings in once you start curving this thing because they're very tight
tolerances to do the double flare we want to just get it into here a little bit above the actual
curve on this thing and when you use the double flare you can use that thickness of this thing
as a gauge to how far above you want to keep this thing so you could actually get the flare correct
you want to do a thickness of that thing and then tighten it down
so once you tighten it down just check thickness make sure
it's as thick as this thing and then you just flip this thing upside down put it inside the hole
and then you do the flare tool right here to get the first flare
so you want to make sure you get it tight flush right down to the bar and once you do that loosen
this thing up remove that double flare fitting and then just do the regular flare after that
as you can tell see that it flattened down that flare
right into that hole once you re-flare it again it's gonna give you that nice double lip
yep you see that nice double lip now should be nice and sealed what you're going to do is just
take some 600 grit or 400 grit and sand some of this down because you do mar up these edges when
you clamp it down so you just want to clean that you see my little nut fell off but luckily i still
got the straight tube so i'm just go ahead and slide it back on slide the nut in make sure it
sits nice and tight you can see it's nice and clean in there that's the way you want to do a
double flare so next thing i want to do is i want to use this little pipe bender it's just basically
a spring to turn this thing into there without crushing the pipe so now i just mopped it up into
the water separator i'm just gonna bend it slowly with this thing slide it on in here start at the
bottom here with your radius and just get it down and just slowly bend it and turn it by hand
and then you want to kind of slide this out as you go that way you don't get it stuck in there
i'm gonna make a really sharp bend coming out of here and then
you want to straighten it into that guy over here
so we got everything mocked up right now pretty much where it needs to be
so what i'm gonna do is i'm gonna end up actually putting in the compression fittings tightening it
down and getting this kind of set up over here and then i can continue the rest of the install
so to put this compression fitting in you want to put the nut on you want to put the little pharrell
bushing which is this thing into there and then you put this on you want to make sure the pipe
goes all the way to the end here in the stopper and then you want to tighten it down after that
all right so i tightened it on here i put a little bit of that 545 thread lock on there just
for safety i'm gonna go ahead and put this thing into the tank thread it down there
and then tighten this even more tight once i get it on there and get some more leverage
so i got pretty much everything mounted up right here on the compression fitting you want to
tighten it down as much as you can you don't want to over tighten it because you're going to mess up
that little ferrule ring inside that you use you want to just tighten it basically so it doesn't
move anymore don't overdo that on this one this is a flare fitting so you want to tighten this as
much as possible just to get that seal and get that flare to mate up with the male and female
side of it so that's nice and tight there next thing i'm going to do i'm going to go ahead and do
all this stuff up here bend that line over connect it to there i'm gonna just time lapse everything
go real fast since i already showed you guys basically how to do this right here
so i got it bent nicely it goes right here and over here it lines up with that 8am
fitting so we'll go ahead and finish this up i'm gonna go bend the lower tube right there
so that way i just do all the flares at one time
yeah look how clean and nice these flares ended up being like i said earlier you're
gonna have these little burrs right here just go ahead and just sand that down with some
sandpaper and get it all smooth again same with the rest of the lines and stuff on this pipe
all right i was able to make all the connections all the tube is bent nicely it goes around
i've gave it a little bit of an angle right here that kind of goes downwards so gravity
sends the liquid and the moisture down into this filter or water collector so this is an
auto drain it's going to end up dumping the water down here i might just put a tube or a hose into a
bucket if it gets really bad on the way it drips you can always also just twist this thing off
manually and just pull it out and dump it right there so it's pretty easy it's just a quarter turn
twist off hopefully all the connections are good and all the flares are good uh with this whole
setup right here this thing does only charge this line when it's actually running i think once this
compressor shuts off this thing actually releases or purges the air and the check valve down here in
the tank keeps all the air in the tank from going back out so this whole circuit is only needs to be
air tight when it's actually charging all right i went ahead and moved my compressor back into here
made the electrical connections made the connection down here for the service port out
to my secondary regulator and dryer over here so hopefully this thing doesn't have to do that much
work there is a double water collection over here in case there is moisture but i think with our
new uh after cooler setup that thing will probably moot as far as the work it has to do because that
one back here is gonna be doing most of the work for us so we're gonna go ahead and fire this up
see what the temperatures are input and output and see what kind of temperature drop we have
with this new after cooler all right before we're starting it's about 71 degrees on the output right
here right out of the compressor before we're starting to run we're going to measure that
and then we're going to measure the input going into the tank and see what the differential is
so after running with no air moving nothing is up to 250 degrees input shaft down here gets up to 90
degrees this is after it's been running when it was running we saw that it got up to around 200
on the output and then down here when we got to the input into the tank we were getting around 70
to 75 degrees which was like a 125 degree drop so that's a huge difference in the amount of
temperature drop and differential thanks to that after cool so that one little fill up right there
just filled up this water reservoir pretty much about a 20 of the capacity of this thing
so that is a decent amount of moisture that i took out of there hey guys thanks for watching all the
way to the end of this after cooler install on the air compressor as you can see it's a pretty
straightforward project especially if you have a larger air compressor and you watch all the way to
the end obviously is one of the projects that you want to do if you need any of the products that i
use in this project check out the links down in the description to amazon or home depot most of
these parts are pretty common plumbing parts that you can get including the tools so just check out
those links if you need any of this stuff remember guys with all these different diy projects if i
can do it you can do it if you haven't subscribed to my channel go ahead and subscribe to your
channel to stay on top of all my different diy videos whether i'm doing stuff for the car
in the garage or for the house i want to thank you for watching and i'll talk to you guys next time