Today I'm working on this Volkswagen Golf which has a huge dent almost down
the complete height of the door, using a special cold glue system from Glexo
I'm going to attempt to pull this damage out to restore this door back to its
original state.
Hi everyone its Jake here from 1st Track Dents and welcome back for another paintless
dent repair video, so today we're working on this Volkswagen Golf which is a huge
dent which goes down almost the complete height of the door, so on this job I'm
setting myself a challenge to see how much of this damage I can pull out using
only this amazing cold glue system from Glexo. So I've seen this system used by a
lot of other PDR Tech's online and thought was about time to check this out
for myself, now this kit comes in this really smart looking wooden case and if
we look inside we can see that we have a choice of these two round sizes of
metal pulling tabs and two metal horizontal crease pulling tabs and the
glue is wrapped up in this special paper kept in the front of the case. Now these
metal tabs are compatible with your normal slide hammer which you would
usually use for your hot gluing tabs. Now the Glexo cold glue pulling system is
a type of super sticky black adhesive which when applied to one of the metal
tabs that comes in the kit provides a tremendous amount of pulling power that
allows you to pull out large sections of damage without all the usual mess that
comes with traditional hot glue pulling systems and best of all there's no
waiting times for the glue to go off. Now when this job came in I thought it'd be
a great challenge to see how well this system could perform and would be a great
test to see how much of this damage could be pulled out with the Glexo
cold glue system, right let's see how I go on
Right looking face on at this door the overall width of the damage is
approximately 550 millimeters and the height is around 650 millimetres, now I
do know this was caused by a low-speed collision which has created various
sections of damage the most obvious damage being these two main low areas on
the top and bottom here and if we look more closely at this damage we can see
that when the door was pushed in it caused the side impact beam to push into
the outer door skin as shown by this diagonal Ridge here and looking at the
bottom section of the doorframe here we have a very hard Ridge caused by the
internal doorframe shown here in yellow pushing into the outer skin, which can be
very difficult to remove and the last thing to mention is that we have some
very minor paint surface scratches which I'll polish off at the end of the repair...
To see the damage clearly and to ensure I get good adhesion with the cold glue
system, the best thing to do is to clean the panel to remove any contaminants
next on opening up the Glexo cold glue here I select a small ball of the glue
that would be big enough for the dent I was pulling, and as you can see you don't
need a huge amount when using this system. Using your hands is advisable to
manipulate the glue to get it up to a nice warm working temperature although
as it's the middle of winter and very cold outside I decided to gently warm
the glue up to get it to his optimal working temperature, I then press the
glue into the smallest pulling tab supplied with the kit and by twisting
the tab in the slide hammer I locked it into place using a twisting motion I
press the glue into the dent and give a strong pull on the slide hammer. You can
see straight away the immense pulling power of this glue, just in case you
missed it, let's take a closer look at that again, WOW, the slide hammer
doesn't even pull away from the panel. I continue giving a couple more pulls to
bring out as much of the lower section as possible, so taking a closer look at
the top section it looks like all the damage has just popped out, but here we
can see we still have a couple of horizontal low sections and quite a
large crown towards the edge of the door. So normally I would go in behind this
panel with my PDR bars to push this damage out, by instead I'm going to
attempt to pull these lower areas out only using the Glexo cold glue, so as you
just saw a warmed up the panel again to get some good adhesion and then using the
slide hammer I'm getting some really good pulls on this damage, just a couple
more pulls and I'm done. So after I'd finished pulling, all that was really
left behind was this crown here which I needed to tap back down again.
To do this I'm using this round plastic tip on the end of my knockdown. So in
order to bring this high ridge back down cleanly I take my time making precise
hits on the top of this ridge slowly moving down the panel and as you can see
I haven't used one PDR bar yet only the Glexo cold glue system and already the
top section this door is almost done in less than half the time it would have
took using my traditional PDR bars. Now I'm going to focus all my efforts on the
complex damage at the lower section of the door.
Just above the part of the door where the crash bar is pushing through we have
this horizontal crease here which I'm going to come back to later, first I
want to address this high ridge caused by the internal crash bar pushing into
the outer door skin, it's quite pronounced I'm gonna have to take care
of this in a slow controlled way so as not to create any further damage. I'm
going to continue using my knockdown with the rounded plastic tip as this will be able
to remove this ridge completely. So keep an eye on this light area here and you
will slowly start to see it dissipate and smoothly back out again, by just slowly
manipulating the metal with the tap down tool, Okay now that that's dealt with
it's time to move the light board down lower to deal with the damage in this
lower section here. First I want to deal with this high area known as a crown shown
here in red, for this I'm still using my tap down but I'm using the larger wider
tip. I'm using this tip to gently tap this crown back down again and as you
can see I'm also using the rounded plastic tip in conjunction with the
wider tip to smooth this area back down again. Both tips work really well on
getting this high ridge back down again but as you can see it takes a
considerable and at the time and patience to achieve this. Okay great I'm
happy that all the other sections are roughed out enough time to address the
damage at the lowest part the door which is these three or four lower areas you
can see here so I'm continuing on with the Glexo cold glue system, so as before
I push the slide hammer with the glue onto the damage I can then give a good
few sharp pulls to see how much of this damage the cold glue will allow me to
pull out, as you can see this stuff is super sticky, amazingly enough it has managed
to pull out a fair amount of damage. If you look at the before and after shots
here. So the next thing to do is to remove all the high areas surrounding
these lows to blend them back down again for this I'm using the plastic round
tip again on my knockdown.
Considering I've only used theGlexo cold glue system on this dent, I've
managed to pull out probably 90% of this damage, now I do know that this door has
had previous paintwork so I can't finish it off using hot glue so I'll have to
push the rest of this damage out from behind. Now this is a fairly easy door
trim to remove the only piece of trim that needs to come off was this plastic
handle trim here which I removed carefully which then allowed me access
to the Torx screw underneath after this was removed the next Torx screw in the
middle of the door can be unscrewed, once this has been removed the last thing to
do is to turn the plastic bolt head at the bottom of the trim half a turn to
allow the trim to slide off. Next using some gentle force the clips to hold the
door trim in place can be individually pulled off and then after a little bit
of maneuvering the trim comes away. The next thing to do is to remove the cable
that attaches to the handle and then remove the wire for the electric window
switch. Now to get access into the door the last thing to do is to gently prise
the plastic inspection panel out and put it aside to replace later. Looking inside
we can see that there isn't a great deal of room as we have this large impact
protection beam in the way. Before I put the tools down into the door I first
need to anchor the door in place this is done using my support bar and ratchet
strap
So after moving the light into a good position the first tip I'm going to use
is my plastic vinyl tip, I navigate the tip down into the lower section of
the door where the deepest low point is and then before I start to push I'll
make sure the paint is warmed up slightly so the force of the pushes won't crack
the paint. Using the right amount of force I concentrate on lifting up the
sharpest and deepest indentation as you can see at the bottom of the door here
again I'm using my tap down with a plastic bullet tip to remove any high
areas. The next thing to do is to remove the small line crease that I showed you
earlier which was above the high ridge that are tapped down previously. Looking
at the back of the panel this crease is situated just below this sound deadening
material, to remove this fine crease I'm going to use my plastic bullet tip, and as
it's a very cold day the use of gentle heat is really important especially when
pushing something sharp. So using this tip I carefully push along
this crease using some very precise pushes I have to be careful to stay on
target otherwise I can create high ridges either side of this crease that
will make this crease harder to remove and will add more time onto the repair.
After pushing this crease out I tap down any high areas using my nylon tip on my
tap down. Just as I was starting to get into this job, typically it started
to rain so once again I have to put up the umbrella. I honestly can't wait until
summertime! Now this can be the most difficult part of damage to remove on a
job like this to remove this ridge I'm using the round nylon tip on my
knockdown and I'm slowly moving up and down this Ridge to flatten it back down
again, so the last thing to do is to remove all the small micro lows for this
I'm using my plastic bullet tip with the large extension, first I warm up the
panel to make sure the paint won't crack, the extension helps me to navigate the
tip of the bar down into the lower section under the side-impact bar then
using this tip I'm able to pick up all the small micro lows that were left over
from the cold glue process and the blending process.
I'm also continuing to use the nylon plastic bullet tip for tapping down all
the micro highs
The next stage is the polishing stage, here I flat down and remove all the
scratches that were highlighted earlier most likely caused by a plastic bumper
brushing up against this door, the last coat of polish here is an Ultra Fine
polish, this puts the shine back on the door and also help to remove any surface
marks from the paintless dent removal process. The only thing left to do is to
put the door back together, Once the inspection plate is back into position it's
just a matter of connecting the door lock cable and the electrics back up
again, then with a gentle bit of force the door trim goes back into place.
I can then replace the two screws I removed earlier in the center of the
trim and at the top of the panel, I also twist the plastic bolt head at the bottom half
a turn, then once the handle trim is popped back into position, I can close the door
to check out the FINAL RESULT!
Well I can honestly say I was really impressed with this Glexo cold glue system
it probably allowed me to get this job done in half the time it would have
taken using my traditional method of going in behind the panel to push this
damage out, the thing I like best about this Glexo cold glue system is
there's virtually no set-up time at all you just put the black sticky glue on to
the polish tab, press it onto the panel and start pulling away and best of all
there's no release agent needed to remove it from the panel, and as you saw
on this job I probably pulled out about 90% of this damage just using this
system. I think if the door hadn't been creased at the bottom, there was a good
chance that this system could have pulled out this damage entirely. I was
particularly impressed at how It pulled out the low sections at the top of the
door which meant I didn't have to use one PDR bar in this part of the door at
all, so if you aren't using the Glexo cold glue system, I highly suggest you start
using it as you can see from this job the results speak for themselves. I'll
leave a link in the description below of where you can get it. And lastly for all you
conspiracy theorists out there who were probably looking at the after shots saying
yeah but the cars moved slightly the Lighting's slightly different, well you
are correct because when I finished putting the door trim back together and
started tidying up this is what happened... So I did still attempt to film some of
these after shots in that weather but because I was stuck under the umbrella, I
had to film them quite close in and it was so dark and it was just impossible
so I went back a couple of days later to get some really good after shots for you.
Well that's it for now, thanks again for watching if you enjoyed the video, it would be
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