(intense sound effects)
- Welcome back to the GCN Tech Clinic.
Where I answer and solve or at least try to,
your tech related bike problems that you submit of course
down there in the comment section below.
So if you've got a problem, make sure I know about it.
So get involved down there.
Let's crack on then with the first question this week
and it comes in from Peter Lethbridge
who says he has an issue with his Ultegra group set.
That it won't go into the smallest cog at the back
when the peddles are under load.
It's fine when it's in the work stand
and if Peter reduces the cable tension
the gears then become out of index basically.
Any ideas?
Right then Peter, it does sound like possibly
you've got a little bit of flex going on down there
because when you're in the smallest bracket,
so the highest gear in effect.
You are generally putting quite
a bit of torque through the pedals.
So maybe, you're flexing a little bit
and actually you need to look at
that rear derailleur slightly.
So what are we gonna do?
Firstly, unclamp the cable
and then make sure that the upper pulley wheel is
actually far enough over.
If anything, possibly a little bit further
to the outside of the frame.
So a little bit to the right of the smallest sprocket
down there, if you are looking at the bike from behind.
Reclamp the cable and then re-index those gears.
Hopefully, that will see you right.
It has happened actually to me in the past,
when the gears aren't set up just exactly perfect
and yet when you are laying down a lot of torque.
The frame is under a lot of load down there
so it is something to be aware of.
Alternatively, another problem.
Though it could be this causing it.
Is actually that your rear skewer is done up
slightly too tight and in doing so.
The rear derailleur is actually
being pushed over slightly inwards.
So the best thing to do there would actually be
when setting up your gears actually do it
with the wheel in the drop out as tight as
what you would be using it during your ride.
Hope that all makes sense.
Next question this week comes in from Frank B Greco Jr.
That is an excellent name.
I'd like to have Jon Cannings Jr. after my name, anyway.
Now Frank's problem is that he wants to use some heat shrink
to clean up to front end of the bike.
Specifically on the cables
and what diameter heat shrink should Frank get.
Look at bundling together two Shimano sized cables
per heat shrink cable, so brake and a shifter.
Right there Frank, nice work there.
I love a clean front end on a bike.
So, those outer cable diameters
you're looking at four and five millimeters with Shimano.
With them combined that's nine millimeters.
So your heat shrink, you're gonna look for something
probably between 12 and 16 millimeters in diameter.
Therefore, they're gonna be nice
and pretty snug to start with
and you're not gonna have to heat up
that heat shrink too much importantly.
I love a bit of heat shrink on a bike
so make sure you upload a picture, once you've done it.
To our uploader tool down there in the description.
Who knows maybe you'll make it into the GCN Tech Show,
on the Screw Riding Upgrades by Upgrades.
Next up is Tomver.
Now Tomver has recently switched from a bike
with 105r5800 to a Canyon Endurance with Ultegra r8000.
Lovely bit of upgrade there.
Ever since though, he's got quite a bit of chain noise
and the "crickets" sound while pedaling.
For those of you who don't know what a cricket sounds like
it's a bit of a ticking noise, I guess,
that's the easiest way to describe it.
I believe the ticking noise of a cricket is
because they rub their legs together.
I don't know though.
Now, it seems to come from the crank area.
Tomver has tried cleaning and lubricating the chain
and indexing the front derailleur but no solution yet.
Any ideas to proceed with?
Right then Tom, but first up remove your pedals
clean the threads, clean the axles as well of the pedals
and then using either grease or anti-seize
refit them up to the correct torque.
While you're at it as well,
take out the chain ring bolts
and also either use anti-seize or grease on them too.
Hopefully, once you've torqued those up
that will actually reduce
or I hope remove that cricket sound.
Alternatively, it could be a bottom bracket
but I recon it's probably your pedals
so give that a go and let me know what it was.
Next question comes in from the dream life of Grace bell08
I do wonder sometimes where these usernames come from.
Anyway, I digress.
Question is, hi Jon, I have a 50 to 34 tooth chain set
and 11 to 28 tooth cassette on Dura Ace DI2 9000.
The dream life of Grace bell08 is planning on
doing some classic climbs of the Pyrenees next summer.
I am very jealous, I do like the Pyrenees.
Feel free to invite me.
Now the dream life's question is
could they run an 11 to 32 tooth cassette on the rear
by adjusting the B screw on the rear derailleur.
Similar to what my colleague Oliver Bridgewood did
on his Everesting Challenge.
He is aware though that Shimano does not recommend this.
Thanks Martin.
Right then Martin, yes it will work.
It is a bit of a barge or a hack.
I know some people have actually remove that B tension screw
flipped it around and reinserted from the other side
just to get a little bit more adjustment.
However, an alternative to doing that
would to be actually buy a derailleur hanger extender.
They're at two dollars, two pounds, two euros
from sites like Ebay.
What that is gonna do is actually lower your rear derailleur
by about two centimeters which is enough to actually
accommodate those extra teeth in there.
I actually managed to use one on a one bike conversion
hack I did and fit a 36 tooth lowest sprocket
with a short cage rear derailleur.
It is certainly possible and is an option there for you too.
Right now we've got a question that come in from Edgar.
Edgar wants to invest in a power meter for next season.
Edgar's currently running a Shimano 105 57000 crank set.
Shimano 105 in the rear.
Now Edgar's looking at the 4iiii precision 105 58000
one-sided powermeter.
Will this work together with the 57000 crank set
or should Edgar change the crank set
to the 58000 to match up.
Edgar nice to hear from you my friend.
Now, that will match up absolutely fine
because the splines on both the crank and also the spindle
on those two chain sets are perfectly interchangeable
cause well they're the same.
So, yes it will work.
The only thing you need to consider is will your own OCD.
How fussy you are really about those things
matching up perfectly in terms of aesthetics
because they do look slightly different the two chain sets.
Really, yeah, if you're gonna be fussed or not.
To be honest, you're probably not
because it's not that often where we are actually staring
down whilst riding along and look at our cranks.
Right Bill Boyce is next on the agenda this week.
Bill Boyce asks is it possible to buy a disc specific frame
and upgrade Bill's rim brake etap to disc
by purchasing new levers and wheels.
Right then Bill, yup, it's certainly possible.
You will need new calipers too obviously
because your rim brake calipers they are not gonna work.
You will also need to hoses and things like that
but yeah it's totally possible.
I'll tell you what Bill, this is a classic example
of something that should be sent in
to the Screw Riding Upgrades by Upgrades
on the GCN Tech Show.
You do that and I reckon you'll make it in
I mean you've got haven't you.
Who doesn't want to be featured in that.
Go ahead, do it, submit it using the uploader tool.
Next up is TRitGeRizZ who wants to know
is it possible to pair mechanical Ultegra shifters
with a mountain bike rear derailleur
and still use a two bike group at the front of the bike.
Good question.
Now it's not possible to use mountain bike rear derailleur
with Shimano drop bar shifters.
The reason being the two component sets
so mountain bike parts from Shimano
and road bike parts from Shimano
actually use different amount of cable pull ratio.
There is a way around this though
and it's from a company called Wolf Tooth
who makes something called the Tanpan connector
and that slots into your rear derailleur
where the outer cable would go.
Your outer cable slots into that
and it's on a slight curve basically
and that amends the amount of cable pull
that's provided from your shifter.
Kind of like magic.
Pretty cool magic, I think.
So you can actually use a mountain bike rear derailleur
with drop bar shifters from Shimano, how cool is that?
Now, another option you could do is to fit a
derailleur hanger extender also available from Wolf Tooth.
Other options online too.
That just moves down the rear derailleur
a couple of centimeters
and will allow your rear derailleur
to accommodate a few more teeth at the rear.
When I say a few more,
I managed to get a 28 tooth rear derailleur capacity
to actually go up to 36 tooth.
So normally handle a 28 tooth sprocket, I got 36.
It's an option for you there too.
Next question is another mountain bike
and road bike compatibility question.
This one is from thebelly925.
Now, thebelly wants to know which DI2 mountain bike
components are compatible with the road DI2 offerings.
Now thebelly925 has read that some teams
change their Dura-Ace rear derailleur
for something that can accommodate a larger cassette.
Right, bit of a can of worms this one
because firmware or software of a part
could actually be changed with quite literally
the press of a button at Shimano hq, if they so wanted.
However, the last time I actually played around with this
I plugged a Shimano mountain bike rear derailleur
into my road bike set up.
It didn't work.
I unplugged the front derailleur and it worked.
So if you want to use the one bike set up.
That mountain bike rear derailleur would be absolutely fine.
As a two bike set up with a road front derailleur,
it won't work.
I'm sure someone out there could hack this,
probably with some electronics wizardry
but I'm not an electrician.
Now, you've mentioned about some teams changing parts around
to accommodate different cassettes.
Yes, a few years back a company called K-EDGE
were making different cages for rear derailleurs
to allow them to use bigger cassettes at the rear.
Pretty sure it's discontinued now.
You might be able to find one if you hunt around online,
however, most rear derailleurs they tend to actually
accommodate slightly larger rear cassette
than what they officially say.
You could run the risk of actually dropping your chain.
Ollie recently, as someone has already mentioned,
did use a 32 tooth cassette on a rear derailleur
that was officially only meant to
accommodate a 28 tooth cassette.
There you are, there's some food for thought there.
Final question this week comes in from Jarry Boi
who again has got a DI2 compatibility question.
Honestly, I think I should bring in a multi meter
and things like that, an electricians kit
because that's what it's turning into, a jest.
I absolutely love these sorts of questions.
Right, Jarry Boi final one this week.
Jarry Boi has recently bought the R8050 DI2 front
and rear derailleur and a new 11 speed rear cassette.
Jarry Boi thought that everything would be plug and play.
So just plug it all in
and would work fine with 6770 shifters.
Nothing happens.
How can they get it to recognize the rear derailleurs?
Right Jarry, the good news is
you are okay there for compatibility
because the brain of the system if you'd like
is actually in the rear derailleur
and front derailleur rather than the shifters.
Those 6770 shifters will work with 10
and 11 speed group sets that it's compatible with
in terms of the actual ports for the DI2 cables.
What I'd suggest you do because nothing at the moment
like you say is working, nothings happening.
Unplug everything and replug back in.
It sounds a little bit silly
and whenever IT technicians says if you try turning off
and back on again, I always laugh.
I do it and it works.
So give that a go and hopefully will recognize it.
Alternatively, you could also try upgrading the firmware,
using the SMPCE1 or the SMBCR2, I think it's called.
Which are the plug and play sort of bits which go in.
One plugs into the junction box
and the other plugs into the components themselves.
I can't remember which way around they do it
but actually upgrade the firmware
because maybe something is not talking to the other one,
in quite the correct way.
Electronics can be a little bit of a mine field
but I absolutely love them on bikes
so I'm not gonna go too harsh on them to be perfectly honest
Right, I hope I was able to answer your question this week
on the GCN Tech Clinic.
I absolutely love getting stuck into them.
If not, leave it for me down there
in the comment section down below
and I'll do my very best to answer
in a future upcoming episode.
Now, remember as well to like
and share this video with your friends.
Give it a big old thumbs up, share it with a friend
who has one of these problems I've just mentioned,
so they can get rolling as soon as possible.
Don't forget to check out the GNC shop at
shop.globalcyclingnetwork.com
We have a whole heap of goodies for you
to spend your pocket money on
and now for another great video
This Time the Latest Maintenance Monday.
How bout clicking just down here.