These windy cold days, they're really quite exhilarating aren't they?
even though they're freeing, I mean I just love being down here by these rocks
looking at the waves crashing against them and all that stuff
and because i'm a photographer i wanna take some pictures them. Now i say this often
but you can't just snap an image in expected to have an edge
you have to assemble it using the fundamental building blocks
of aperture, shutter speed, etcetra. what do I mean by that?
Well the place you'd begin is to choose what your pictures going to look like.
so I would begin by setting the focal length that i want for the
shot that i'm going to take. Because by changing the focal length you're gonna
change how it will appear.
The next question is which aperture am i going to use?
because the aperture control shows how much is sharp front to back in the picture
do I want a shallow depth of field as to in a portrait or do i want lot's of
depth of field
as in a landscape. Once I've chosen the aperture
that then, from there I can then work out which shutter speed I need
to get the correct exposure but you can't always get
the shutter speed that you want because there may be
not enough light or maybe too much light
for you to use to get that shot and this is where your iso comes in.
it's the third ball in the juggling of exposure we've already made a film about
manual exposure in which I show you how to juggle your shutter speed and you aperture
together
but if you're going to juggle beautifully you need 3 balls to do it,
and I so is that ball. Let me show you what I mean by the effect an iso
can have on your shutter speed and aperture.
I'm gonna pop my camera on a tripod
moving
and I'm gonna show you what goes on in the back in a little LCD screens
right switch it all sacred place to start
right I'm just pointing the camera down here these rocks really doesn't matter
I just want something so the cameras not moving so is in every pic not like from
different places
if I set a manual exposure of forty got a middle to the right after about 11
if I'm gonna set an exposure for that I have to change my shutter speed
and in this light at f/11 at 200 I so
that's the finest grain I say there's an I so film on a crisp I'm I so is too
much can watch the I so film is the link below
as well as a practical uses here so
to get the correct exposure f11 the light meters in the middle
I have to use the six for the second that's a very very slow
shutter speed to our eyes it looks fairly bright that's cuz all pupils
dilate there's not much light around here
the ball to increase that's up to speed
I can increase the sensitivity of the camera by increasing the eyesight
let's do it we're counting on two hundred eyesight if I
jackpot up for FF to 400 now if you look at the light meter
it says that I'm one-stop overexposed
what does that mean it means I can speed up my shutter speed
if I want to go farther I can increase the I so small it's gonna 800 eyesight
and again it's a stop by bricks by so I can push it higher
are now gone through 2015 the second but I'm still using
the same aperture let's just put it back where it was when he was six was in
there
put the ice I backed 200
because I'm gonna say the effect it will have on a shot a spate there we go 6 for
a sec f11
correct exposure like me to in the middle let's say
I increase the I so again let's take that up to 400 a school-wide
800 you don't need see all twice now my light meter is saying
its two stops overexposed that's because not make the sensor
twice the sensitive so what I gotta do is to cut down some lights
therefore I can decrease my aperture
say hi Mike the aperture smaller from f11
art on that too f22 60 the second
light meters in the middle this is the affect your I so we'll have
on your shutter speed and aperture let's have a look at some ways to put that
the practical use