Number 6 Malik Joyeaux Tahiti's Malik Joyeaux was a big name in surfing,
famous for taking on monstrous waves.
While surfing in Hawaii, he decided to charge forward at an 8-foot wave.
He didn't position himself properly, which would prove to be a fatal mistake.
Within moments, the lip of the wave came crashing down breaking Joyeaux's board and taking him
under.
An autopsy later revealed that the water had crashed so violently that it knocked Joyeaux
unconscious and that he’d drowned as a result.
Coming up next, a legend loses his life after he gets trapped underwater but first let’s
learn more about surfing.
Today's video was requested by kevin_h_sarmiento.
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the comments section below.
Surfing is a water sport in which people use boards to ride moving waves which carry them
to the shore.
Surfboards trace their origins to ancient Hawaii, where they were made from local trees
called koa.
Unlike their predecessors, modern surfboards are lighter as they're manufactured out of
polyurethane or polystyrene foam with added modifications to increase their durability
and maneuverability.
The modern definition for surfing often refers to a rider standing up on surfboard but there
are a number of other types depending on the rider's position, style, the type of board
they're using and the type of wave they're riding.
Body surfing, for example, doesn't involve the use of a board as the surfer will use
their own body to catch and ride the wave.
In big wave surfing, the rider will often be towed by a motorized vehicle into the wave
front as this helps them match its speed.
Throughout the years, surfing has developed into a stand-alone culture as well as a multi-billion
dollar industry.
It's a popular sport that may be practiced professionally but there are a number of dangers
associated with it, which can result in severe injury and even death.
Before we move on, answer this question.
In addition to breaking the record for the largest wave ever surfed, what else is Garrett
McNamara known for?
a.
Surviving a shark attack b.
Surfing a tsunami c.
Deepest free dive ever done d.
Bringing surfing to Scotland Let us know what you think in the comments
section below and stay tuned to find out the right answer!
Number 5 Mark Foo Mark Foo was a surfing legend and his death
is often regarded as being among the most tragic loses in the sport.
Foo was described as highly charismatic and confident, traits which drove him to always
search for bigger waves.
The quest for greater challenges brought him to Mavericks, near northern California, a
place that was famous for its waves.
In December, 1994, Foo was riding a 20-foot wave when he experienced a wipeout.
He disappeared beneath the surface and lost his life.
It was later determined that the leash from his board had become entangled on the rocks
while currents from a second wave prevented him from getting to the surface.
Next up, a surfer loses an eye and another is nearly left without his foot, but first
let’s go over some of the most popular surfing locations.
The most suitable waves are mainly found in the ocean but surfing can also be done in
rivers or lakes, by riding tidal bores or standing waves.
Surfers may also ride artificial waves such as those created in wave pools or, by boat
wakes.
The most popular surfing locations are usually associated with areas most likely to produce
big waves.
These include parts of the US, such as Hawaii and California, as well as spots in Australia,
South America, South Africa, Japan or Europe, in countries like Spain, Portugal or France.
Historically, surfing was a major part of central Polynesian culture and Hawaii is usually
credited as its birth place.
The first European observations of surfing date back to the second half of the 18th century
and were made by British explorers in Tahiti.
Number 4 Derek Hynd While surfing at a competition in Durban,
South Africa, Derek Hynd sustained a horrific injury that left him with only one working
eye.
Surfers often have a leash attached to one of their feet so that they don't get separated
from their boards.
As Hynd kicked out, the board bounced back on its leash and struck him in the eye with
its fin.
Doctors initially wanted to remove what was left of his eye entirely.
However, they ultimately decided to try and restore his sight.
The procedure didn't take and Hynd essentially lost all vision in his right eye.
However, that didn't stop him from taking on the waves once more.
In 1980, the year of his accident, he was ranked at number 12 in the world.
The following year, despite his injury, Hynd placed seventh.
Number 3 CJ Hobgood When commenting on the injury he sustained
at an event in Portugal, CJ Hobgood, said that it went beyond stitches and that "you
could stick your whole hand in it".
He'd accidentally kicked his fin out too hard and it sliced through the tender flesh on
his foot.
The fin ripped through the muscles and tendons on his foot, from top to bottom.
Hobgood was heading towards a long recovery but was expected to return to competition.
Before we get to our next listing involving a surfer that’s almost left with his intestines
hanging out, let’s see the ways in which surfing can harm or kill you.
As with any water sport, drowning is an ever-present risk.
The term "wipeout" is used in surfing lingo to refer to someone thrown off their board
by a wave.
When it comes to big wave surfing, the height of the wave can exceed 20 feet.
As it comes crashing down, a surfer might be pushed more than 50 feet beneath the surface.
The water pressure is strong enough to rupture eardrums and they can also get slammed into
the seabed’s jagged rocks.
They'll have little time to regain their composure and get back to the surface before the next
wave hits them.
Being held underwater by two or more consecutive waves can result in drowning.
Colliding with the seabed, reefs, rocks, sand bars, or other surfers is also a risk.
The majority of injuries stem from collision with the nose or fins of the surfboard, which
can result in bruising or deep cuts.
Currents that flow away from the shore, known as rip currents, are also dangerous since
surfers might get caught in them and carried out to open sea.
Surfers may also become victims of marine wildlife such as sharks, seals, stingrays
or jellyfish.
Additionally, surfing regularly can lead to damage in the eyes, ears or spinal cord.
So, in addition to the largest wave ever surfed, what else is Garrett McNamara known for?
The right answer was b, surfing a tsunami.
Aside from surfing an estimated 100-foot wave off the coast of Nazare, in Portugal, McNamara
also rode tsunamis in Alaska.
The waves were created by chunks of glaciers that broke off and fell in the frigid water.
Number 2 Martin Potter Pro surfer Martin Potter once said "If you
can't have a spectacular ride, have a spectacular wipeout.
It's good for the sport.”
In the 1980s, Potter was known for his aerial stunts, which were arguably advanced for the
time, as well as his refusal to take part in South African events as a protest against
apartheid.
In 1997, he was riding a wave at Burleigh Heads when he suffered a gruesome injury.
He didn't make it out of the tube of the 5-foot wave and fell forward.
The nose of his surfboard then ripped through the left side of his abdomen.
Roughly six inches of the board broke off in his stomach causing such a deep gash that
his insides actually protruded out of it.
Potter was able to return to the sport after several months and over 40 stitches.
Our final listing is about a teenage pro surfer who lost her arm in a shark attack, but, before
we get to that, here are some preventive measures that can be taken within the sport.
Survival in surfing is often linked to acknowledging the level of skill and experience you possess.
Even professional surfers have lost their lives so it's very important for those practicing
this activity infrequently to have a realistic grasp on their abilities.
This means taking on the appropriate waves, using the right equipment and surfing in an
area that runs the least risk of collision or encountering dangerous creatures.
It's best not to surf alone, particularly in big swells, or to tell someone where you're
going and when you expect to be back.
Wear a wetsuit, goggles and ear plugs and always check the weather conditions prior
to heading out.
Number 1 Bethany Hamilton Bethany Hamilton's story is one of great suffering
and outstanding determination.
In 2003, when she was only 13 years old, Hamilton was the victim of a vicious tiger shark attack.
She was surfing at a beach in Kauai when the tiger shark bit her left arm clean off, right
below the shoulder.
By the time she arrived at the hospital, the teenager had lost more than 60% of the blood
in her body and was in hypovolemic shock.
The 14-foot shark that had attacked her was later found with surfboard debris in its mouth.
Hamilton survived and was back on a board within a month of the attack.
She taught herself how to surf with one arm and began competing again in 2004.
She would go on to place first in major competitions, become a mother and an often-cited example
of passion, tenacity and determination, within the surfing community and beyond.
Thanks for watching!
Would you rather get attacked by a tiger shark or jump in raging waves from a 100-foot cliff?
Let us know in the comments section below!