Today we're doing three kitchen organization projects
to help you attack things like this
and this
And definitely this
I'm Brad from Fix This Build That
let's get all this stuff out of here so we can see what we're working with
If you're like us the space on your sink is kind of like a black hole. We can never find what we need
We've got too much of what we don't need and pipes in a garbage disposal make organizing a pain,
but we're going to fix that
So this is all the stuff that was under here
What i'm gonna do is get rid of most of this
and only put back the things that we really are gonna use and design
The storage around that the weirdest thing that I found under there was fake poo
Courtesy of my kids i'm sure and some poo-pourri
So at least it won't stink the important measurements to get are the width of the door opening for each cabinet
And the usable depth that you have before you hit any pipes or the garbage disposal
Now this left side only had about 10 inches before hitting the disposal.
So i'll go for an easy shelving solution for this spot
And we'll use pull out trays on the right side where there's some more depth
i'm using three quarter inch plywood and I like using some rigid foam insulation on top of my table saw
To break down the full sheets into manageable pieces with a track saw
I'll be using the table saw for a lot of these cuts
But you can do all of these cuts with a circular saw and a guide, so don't let that hold you back
This shelving solution only takes four pieces
It's as simple as it gets with just two sides a back and an adjustable shelf size to my usable area
I edge banded anywhere that you're going to see exposed plies to pretty them up and it makes a world of difference
A sharp chisel does a good job to trim the edge banding, but you can also use a razor blade
They also have specialized tools just for trimming the stuff that makes it a lot faster
Now instead of making a fixed shelf. I drilled holes for shelf pins for some more flexibility
And i'm using pocket holes for the assembly for a quick and easy connection
I drilled a few holes across each side
Then I used a clamp to hold the parts together
and I secured them with one and a quarter inch pocket screws
Next I cut the adjustable shelf to final size after seeing how much offset I needed for the shelf pins
Now putting it into the cabinet. You can see how I sized it here
The left side hides behind the face frame and it gets attached to the cabinet
Then the right side butts up against that center divider
And I used a little l bracket to secure it to the base of the cabinet
Adding in the adjustable shelving doubles the storage here
and that back will keep everything from spilling into the black hole in theory of course
On the right side i'm making a full width pull out tray on the bottom
And a smaller pull out tray for sponges and other accessories on the top
I'll be making a mounting insert for the lower pull out tray
so that it can be secured to the bottom of the cabinet
Versus needing to be attached to the sides
I cut all the parts for both trays and the insert
and then I edge banded the sides of the insert before assembly
The mounting insert is pretty simple here
It's just two sides for mounting the drawer slides which are connected by two spacers sized to fit that drawer opening
All right
We've got the little insert for the tray and now we need to do the drawer slides in the actual drawer the pull
out tray there i'm using full extension drawer slides
These are each a half inch thick and you need to account for that and make your total drawer
One inch less than the opening
Now this might seem complicated and tricky,
but once you've got it figured out it's a breeze to size your drawers and trays perfectly
I drill pocket holes in the front and back pieces to join the drawer
And I edge banded all four parts before assembly
and with a few quick steps the body of the pullout tray is done
And i'm ready for a bottom
I'm using quarter inch plywood for the bottom, which I cut to the exact size of the
Drawer and then I attached the panel with glue
and one inch me nails keeping the nails three eighths of an inch from the edge
And leaving them away from the edge lets me put a chamfer on the bottom with a handheld router now
This hides the bottom panel from sight and gives you a great looking and sturdy tray
I switched over to the small pullout tray next and I started laying out the ends
Now the side against the cabinet is five inches tall to allow for two drawer slides
But then it angles down to two inches tall on the other side for easy access
I used my combination square to lay out the lines here
I guess you could use a regular tape measure if you're some kind of savage who doesn't like precise layouts
But I wouldn't recommend
It now the angled cut on the ends can be made several ways. You can go with a jigsaw
That's just going to leave you with a jagged edge that needs sanding
Or if you feel comfortable on the miter saw you can use it for the cut
But with that part being so small there's a certain pucker factor involved
So just make sure you have it held firmly and keep your phalanges safely out of the way of the blade
The miter saw leaves a nice clean cut that can be easily edge banded
and you can even run the edge banding right over that
Transition with a little patience a little mountain dew doesn't hurt either. Yeah
mountain dew
I didn't want any exposed fasteners.
So I put the small tray together with just glue and clamps, which worked great
And then I cut and attached a bottom and gave it that same edge treatment as the large tray
Now the great thing about these setups is you can mount all the slides before you even go to the kitchen
So I just rested the slides on the mounting insert and I put them on and installed the lower tray as well
I also added a solid maple drawer front for a little pizazz,
but you could also use an edge bended piece of plywood here too
Now to lay out the small tray slides. I used a three inch wide strip of the quarter inch plywood to draw lines
on the mounting block
I attached the slides to the block and then I used the strip to draw lines on the side of that small tray
And doing it this way gives you an exact match and it avoids a lot of the headaches that you can get
Trying to get these space right by doing measurements
You're probably using a tape measure, aren't you?
And the spot where the upper tray is going has a hinge sticking out in the way
So I added two three quarter inch standoff strips. So the drawer slides could clear the hinge
I finished up everything with a couple coats of water-based poly and then went inside
Install of the full tray goes really quick since all you have to do is shim it level
And then screw the mounting insert to the bottom of the cabinet
Unless of course you only focus on the right side of the hinge and neglect to look at that center divider
But I just moved it over a couple thou and I was good to go
I used the tallest bottle that i'll be putting on that bottom tray
To figure out how high to mount that upper tray to make sure that everything would be clear
Then I secured the drawer slides to the side of the cabinet and slid the tray in
And these three options are perfect to organize any sink and you could use one two
Or all of them to get some great storage under your sink
But this is just the beginning now. Let's tackle the cookie sheets and cutting boards
The next spot is these cabinets right under a cooktop stove
And as you can see, we are not really using them well
And we have all of these cookie sheets in this drawer right here in the small pull out and it is just a mess
So what we're going to do is make cookie sheet storage under here with adjustable dividers
and some extra storage for drawers up top
I unloaded the stuff from the cabinets and I saw I could go back about 20 inches deep
Which is plenty of room for our cookie sheets
Now the dividers are made of quarter inch plywood and so is the base for the dividers
It's a design that I saw from family handyman magazine
But you'll see how I modified it for even more storage
To make the dividers instead of cutting it into the wood i'm going to actually build it up
And i'm going to just use some readily available trim from the home center
They're called mullion strips and they're an inch and a half wide
But what I have is some maple boards here
and i've seen this trick online what they said is if you dropped the wood
from exactly 12.75
Inches, which I believe is 32.39 centimeters.
If you're metric, then uh, it'll turn into mullion strips
Oh my gosh, it worked mullion strips man, the internets are amazing
Now unfortunately that trick doesn't cut them to length so I had to cut all the strips down to 20 inches
But they're an inch and a half wide and 3 8 of an inch thick
The dividers are held in place in grooves between the wood strips on the top and the bottom of the cabinet
And having them removable lets you adjust the dividers for flexible storage
I marked lines on the plywood panel one inch in from the side
So it would be flush with the face frame
And then I clamped a piece of scrap wood to my bench to help align the fronts of the strips
Since the plywood is so thin i'm just using glue to attach the strips versus any fasteners
I used a combination of wood glue and ca glue with activator
The ca glue bonds within a few seconds and it holds the strips in place while the wood glue dries for a more permanent bond
Instead of just using a divider panel as the spacer. I enlisted help from brett blylevin
And dave bergman pleasure to be here now
These fine gents took time away from their 88 top set to act as a shim to add a little wiggle room
I repeated this process until I reached the end of the panel where it would be hidden by the center divider
And next I laid down the plywood panel for the top strips and marked the position of the lower grooves on it
And this will help make sure that they stay aligned and the dividers can move smoothly
Now instead of one full width section on the top and bottom. I did one per opening
But if you have a single door cabinet, you can make it the full width
I made another set of these panels with strips on them for the other side of the cabinet
And then I move to the top frame
The top frame will be attached to the cabinet sides
and give a place to attach the top portion of the divider grooves
It will also create a shelf to squeeze out a little more extra storage in that cabinet
I'm using solid wood strips that are one inch wide
and three quarter inch thick in size to the inside of the cabinet
You can also use the three quarter inch plywood leftovers from the other projects for this
The frame is very simple and it gets connected with pocket screws
And after it was screwed together, I pre-drilled some holes in the sides
and the front for attachment points to the cabinet
The front holes will go right into the center face frame for some extra
Support then I laid the top panels on the frame
and pre-drilled some holes where I would attach them later during install
And you might also notice I moved the center supports
So that I could drill through the center of a mullion strip and into that frame
Since the top frame will also be a shelf. I cut two more plywood panels to fit it
I could have done one solid sheet here, but it was a better use of material to split it into two
I attached the panels with some screws
and then I cut all the removable dividers out of more quarter inch plywood
All the parts got a couple coats of finish and then I moved inside for install
Install isn't hard. It's just
Awkward. I laid the bottom divider panels in and I put in the top frame
Which was a tight enough fit to just stay in place by itself
Then I used the height of one of the removable dividers to figure out the position of that frame
I wanted to leave an eighth of an inch gap at the top of the sliding panels so that they would move smoothly
After measuring and tapping the frame into place. I secured it to the sides in the front of the cabinet
And this is where it got really awkward. I felt like I was playing a game of twister
Limbo and operation all at the same time. Just trying to get those screws in there without stripping them out
That would have been much easier to put the frame in without the top panel on it
Since the drill kept hitting it, but then putting the top panel on would have been a bit harder
So I guess you got to deal with it one way or the other
After securing all the panels in place I cut some small maple strips to cover the frame for a nice finished look
I also put a chamfer on the front edge to help with wear and tear
Here's a quick tip for filling nail holes
Put a piece of tape where you'll shoot the nail and then fill the hole with wood putty while this tape is still on it
And when you peel the tape away the hole will be filled and you don't have any mess on the face of that board
pretty cool
the dividers slide in smooth
And now we have a lot better organization of the cookie sheets cutting boards and other trays
And the added top shelf is also a perfect spot for a few bins to hold little accessories for our griddle and other stuff
Now, let's jump over to the next project. The last project is attacking the bane of every kitchen's existence
tupperware
We have ours under our stove in this small little area, but they're just sitting here
They need much better organization and it's hard to reach back to get everything
and everything's kind of toppled all over each other
So what I want to do is have a pull out tray
and then have some pegboard down underneath and be able to put pegs
To section off spots for each type as well as the lids for a place
To stand up and maybe we'll be able to change it from tupperware
to tupper there
Can I start it off by unloading the cabinet the way that I feel like my kids do it when they're looking for things
Now this cabinet is by far the easiest to work with since it's wide open
I'll be using a pull out tray slash drawer for the base of this system
And i'm going to build it exactly like I did the lower pull out tray on the sink
So i'm going to blow through the assembly of these pretty quickly here and just hit some high notes
I'm using more three quarter inch plywood and i'm going with a three inch high drawer after the pegboard insert is installed
So I cut the parts to three and three quarter inches high
I drilled all my pocket holes at one time for the insert in the drawer
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And then I put together both the assemblies with some pocket holes just like before
I glued and nailed on the bottom and even on a drawer this big it's plenty strong enough
And you also don't have to worry about it rattling around like a floating drawer bottom wood
I finished up by chamfering the bottom edges of the drawer and putting two coats of finish on everything
Now the drawer is done and i've also cut a piece of three quarter inch plywood. That'll fit exactly in the bottom
And what i'm going to do to organize the tupperware is make this pegboard
So i'm going to use 3 8 of an inch dowels and drill a bunch of holes
It's actually going to be 13 by 15. That's
195 holes so I could lay this out and drill this all by hand. That would be a huge pain in my butt
So i'm not going to do that
I'm going to use a cnc
But if you don't have a cnc you could also just use normal pegboard
and put some spacers in between there
To pull it off the bottom and then use dowels to fit into the pegboard, but I do have a cnc
So let's use it
I set up the plywood insert on the cnc and I let my x-carve do all the work for me
Now the longer I have the cnc the more weighs i'm finding to use it
and repetitive holes are definitely one of its strong suits
The drawer gets mounted on the insert into the drawer slides just like we did with the first one
And I also added a solid maple front like the other trays
Going with solid wood fronts really does make it look a lot nicer
And then I could put the pegboard in place and see how it looked
Now with the pegboard bottom in place you can put the pegs wherever you want to i'm using 3/8 inch dowel
This is a 4 foot stick and out of that
you can get
13 maybe 14
three and a half inch dowels
You can put these in any configuration you want to adjust for your tupperware
or the tupperware that you don't know where it's at
Save a spot for it
I took the drawer inside and I mounted it in the cabinet without a hitch
I did need a little shim on one side to get it level, but it slides great
I ended up cutting some smaller inch and a half dials as well for the bottoms
So they wouldn't interfere with the lips of the containers
Now this system lets you configure it
However you want and you can stand your lids up or lay them down flat
And having a place for everything and everything in its place makes me smile
If you want some more home organization projects, I got a playlist queued up for you right there
That's got some great projects
I think you're going to love
I want to give a big thank you to all the folks that have been joining the builders club
you can find more information
Down below and i'll catch you guys on the next video