So we are back on this 30 by 40 garage and I'm gonna do my best to take you guys through
How we build these so that you know, this is the size of shop garage building
Whatever that I think just about anybody can build. Yes, you might not have a mega deck
You might not have a Kubota skid loader, but I've built these with none of those you can go rent an auger
put some holes in the ground and
Most of this stuff is liftable by a couple guys. So 30 by 40
12 foot tall is what we're doing here. Not everybody needs that sometimes ten foot is all you need. So
First thing I'm gonna do is get the rotary laser set up last time
We were here. We dug the holes we set these and it's been a couple days now, so we're back
We're gonna start building on them. I am gonna even though we set all these off of a laser
I'm gonna go back around and I'm gonna get my laser
measurement to grade once again on each one of these brackets
Once the laser is set up. I'm going to I've already done this for the sake of TV
Found the highest bracket which one I get my laser mark is 41 and 3/8 now
I've also gone around and looked at the rest of them and what that means is my goal was to have these
concrete piers about 6 inches below
Finished concrete on the inside. Ok, this is gonna get a concrete floor
I wanted it about 6 inches below the top of the concrete, which means in
Average is what I found is we're really close to 40 inches being my grade. So I'm gonna come in here
Or sorry 40 inches is where I want my actual grade board bottom to be so
Yep
You're my Blaser Greg
So at 41 and 3/8, I'm gonna mark this bracket
1 in 3/8 what that means is my post is gonna come up and add about 1 in 3/8 from the top of the bottom
Of that post that's where my grade board is gonna be and that's what's gonna be
Consistent that measurement is going to be consistent around all of these brackets
pretty simple
So 41 1516 which means 1
1516 so pretty simple. I'm gonna go around and do that all
Every bracket and then we'll go ahead and use these measurements on our story pole to make up our post
So now that we have every measurement for every post I've got it on my little block
I'm gonna put it on my horses and then these are
These are Ohio Timberland and these are three ply
Laminated two by sixes every board go through a mill to bring it to a true dimension
So when I take a tape measure to these posts
They're actually not five-and-a-half. They're only five and 3/8 and instead of four and a half. They're more like four and a quarter
But what that does is that allows us to know exactly that every post is perfect
The other thing you'll notice about these post a
Little little trick for you to metal banding you don't want to stand in front of it
But just put your just put the clog the hammer in there
Break right in half. Anyway, what you'll know is they come with the center knotch
loose
So this way once we determine exactly where everything is we can cut this center block to accept our trust
That way we cut this to be perfect for our trust to go right in the inside and you'll see that later
so the key to the efficiency side of making up your posts on the ground is a story pole and
All that is is a two by four that are copy two by six
Whatever just some long piece of wood or whatever material that you're going to keep and use on every one of your post
And so what we're gonna do is first off the bottom of this 2x4 is gonna be our grade
okay, that is when we were doing our laser marks on our
brackets that dimension that plus one and three-quarters one and five sixteenths that is
From the bracket plus one in five sixteenths is at the bottom of this board on our post. So hopefully that makes sense
It'll probably make more sense as we go but I'm gonna hook my bottom of my story pole. This is a 12-foot wall
So I'm gonna mark 12-foot
Now what that is is that is gonna be the heel of our trust. That's the bottom of our trust on
Every post the next thing I'm going to do is I'm going to determine the top of our post which I already know
But I'm gonna do it here on the I got a calculator app. I use it's called builders helper on iOS
and
basically, I'm gonna do
12-foot okay, because I know that's our height of our that's the height of our post or the height of our wall
I'm going to add
15 and a half inches, which is the height of the heel of our truss and then I'm gonna add three and
eleven
Sixteenths and I see eleven. Yes, eleven sixteenths. That is the dimension
Height-wise of a two-by-four went on a 4-12 pit. So without going too deep
You know, you can always DM me or ask me later if you want to get more in depth into this
That is 13 7 and 3/16 now that is the very highest point of the framing on our wall
I then I'm going to take away our
Overhang pitch, which is a 4:12 pitch roof. We got a 1 foot overhang. So on that 1 foot
I'm going to go down the hill four inches. So I'm gonna take away 4 inches then I'm going to take away
the
Fascia dimension which we use a 2 by 6. So I'm gonna take away another 5 and a half inches, so that leaves me
That leaves me with 12 foot 9 and 11 16. So now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna mark 12 foot nine
Eleven sixteenths what this is
That is the top of our last dirt on our post and that is also at is the top of our soffit
so what we do is we mark this on every post we put a two by six here and
We know when we go to run our soffit trim as long as it's flush on the top of this board
It's going to be perfect where we want it. Okay. So now the next thing to do
And this is where
Consistency and efficiencies help save you time
We always go 39 inches for the bottom of our wainscoting a ler. So that's always going to be 39. I know that
And the reason we do that is our wainscot will come up
Onto this two by six in a good dimension that we'll be able to put our trims and everything works out real nice
Now the next thing I always do is I take from that wainscot mark
To the top of our soffit nailer which this is about 115 inches
And I'm always trying to determine a good dimension for our wall Gert spacing
So I already know that these are 30 inch spacings because it just works out good. So now all I'm gonna do is from this
Wainscot nailer is I'm going to mark every 30 inches. So 30
60 90
And then the next one is gonna be our soffit nailer
Go ahead and square these all around
And that's our story poles so now what we can do is I've got
I've got all the dimensions of all of our posts. I'm gonna hook the bottom of the column and I'm gonna go one
3/4 square that line
That is the grade measurement that we always talk about I then take my story pole. I
Set it to that grade mark and I come through
And I mark every mark on this post I
Forgot to mark my cutoff height we were talking about
All these dimensions, but this is where we're gonna cut off the tops of our post
So by having that dimension we are able to have a consistent top cut on the pitch of all of our posts
so
All I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna do that same process on every one of these post right here and then we'll get them
Over to the building so we can start building the walls
we're gonna take all of the grade marks from earlier put them on the bottom of these post and then use our story poll to
Quickly and efficiently make the exact same marks on every post
Now that all of our columns are marked from our story poles
It's time to make them up and there's a couple different steps that I have to do at the end one being
What you see me doing here where I'm cutting the ears back to a fourth-wall pitch and that is going to line up
With the tops of our purlins for the most part, I like to do that just because it makes it look more professional
One of the other steps we have to do is I have all of our columns come with that Center notch
knocked out and not glued in or fastened so I can pull it out real quickly like this and wherever we
Designated our heel mark on the post. I'm gonna cut it right there once this is cut
I'm gonna actually put it right back in in the pocket and
That will now be the height of our truss and so obviously with the story pole with the laser
this is gonna allow us to guarantee that our trusses are all installed at the exact same height and obviously that's important for
Many reasons but we like to use some 20 penny nails
This is kind of a part where we could use the Jumbo nailer to do this a little bit quicker
But I actually enjoy just swinging the hammer a little bit. So we're gonna cut our ears off we're going to
Just repeat this process many times
But all in one spot on some saw horses not up in the air
a lot of guys will
Put their posts up long wild and then come back through later and cut them at the truss height
I'd prefer to do it now. It looks better
It looks more professional and when you leave for the night, the customers are looking at it. They just think everything looks good
So what I'm doing here is putting a interior board and this is going to define our corner and we do it now instead of
Later once again
it's efficient and easy here versus when the walls are already stood up and what this what this board is doing is because
Really hard to explain but basically we're trying to build out the corner to a five and a half dimension
So when our wall Gertz on the inside come into the corner, they will hit this
two by six right here
And what we're using to is these are twenty penny
Ring shank galvanized nails we use all galvanized that wasn't will corrode in any treated lumber
Even though this is supposed to be non, correct?
So then we've got our our story pole that we also mark the inside mark so we can have all of our
To the heal on my corner board
Market
What you're seeing us do here is a little bit different than the side wall columns
These are our end wall columns in order to be efficient
I go ahead and order the exact same size columns for all posts
But I want my end wall columns to go all the way up to the top of the trust
So I use that Builders app to get a calculation for height and I extend
My Center notch
To go all the way up to the top of the trust and I do that to add a lot of strength to the end
Wall and get a connection from ground to the top of the truss
Once all of our columns are made we're gonna lay them out to the corresponding bracket and
Then lay out our wall Gertz on all those designated marks from our story poll
And this is where a lot of efficiency comes into play instead of sanding each column individually
We do the wall as a unit and it makes it a ton easier. I swear this is still the same day
We just got back from lunch put on my buddy Hashmi constructions assurity sent us
Greg's got one the did the sleeveless framer look for us today because it is a little bit sultry out here
We got the Itachi compressor fired up, which means the Jumbo
nailer from fast goes coming out
You can see it right here. This is
definitely not something that your average homeowner is going to have this thing shoots up to a six and
Three-eighths nail you can see it's quite large
F91
And what we're shooting these are four inch ring shank galvanized
they have the diamond coating which makes the nail go in easier and
holds stronger also full round head
That's going to increase holding power. I tell you what, this is a legit fastener
It holds way better than a hand driven 20 penny ring shank. So
Time to get to work we'll get all these nailed up
We'll be able to stand up these walls in one section at a time. So
No worries about any splices, but right now working on the ground that is what's going to be efficient
it's going to be easy you're gonna be able to be precise and you can control a lot of variables by doing it on the
ground
What I like about the Jumbo nailer is
Connections like this driving a nail
Out like you do when you drive a nail but
when we get to these top four
Where we have to put a nail in this year instead of using the gun and having a possible blowout like a hand drive
This connection so we'll come back hit back
One thing we also always try to do this. Let us consider
This nail our row right? Here is the
wainscot nailer and
This is the one everybody looks down. This is the one that you want it straight in classical. So try to get the best
material possible out of your pile
You got this bro
Now a lot of people might be saying it will dial
Nail guns have been around for a long time. Like why are you saying it's big deal? Welcome toaster a typically
you're not going to use a nail gun, like a pass load or even the Hitachi or DeWalt cordless for that matter because
You can't shoot a big enough nail
You can't shoot a large enough diameter nail or a big enough ring shank nail
And you really need that in the post frame because that's where the strength is that these connection
We got the walls all put together
Look at the split e with the Jumbo nailer now, we're gonna go ahead and rig it up to the Cheyenne
Tella boom that sucker is priceless on the post frame jobsite
especially when it's buildings usually 48 foot and
Thinner I guess I would say since we're talking with
48 foot or less. We'll use the lead Pella
Boom, even though I think it's good up - we've done 60 wives
So we're just going to wrap a couple post pick this thing right up
and once again the point of this process as I about tripped and died the point of this process is to
Do all the work on the ground use a machine to lift your material into place and hold?
It while you can make sure things are level straight plumb all that good stuff
Get it fast into then let go of the machine that way you're doing very minimal
Manual labor. It's a lot of hard work out here and the less you have to do physically
challenge your mind make it simpler in the
labor side