- Ever wanted to build a keyboard
but you are lonely in your room
and you want someone to do it with you?
Well, this video's the one for you.
Where you will build a keyboard with me
or we build at the same time.
Though, you can just watch along and listen,
or, you know, have it playing in the background.
Either way free watch time.
So it's build time.
KBDFANS was very kind to send me over a keyboard.
Just a lift up like a magnetic kind of opening.
Big thick piece of foam.
More big thick piece of foam.
A polycarbonate plate.
Very nice with gaskets.
So already, you know
this is a gasket mount, polycarbonate build from KBDFANS.
We've got the KBD67 mark two RGB V three.
That's a really long name for a PCB.
Look at the absurd amount of foam
they put into this container.
Goodbye box.
(electronic sound effect)
This is a burgundy red case
with a beautiful brass plate.
Not sure what this is over here.
Maybe it's just for style.
(sound effect swoosh)
For extra looks.
The bras plates pretty nice.
I'll have to put the feet on
and then there's a blocker here.
So this is 65% keyboard.
It's called the D 65 and it's supposed to be gasket mounted.
I need a build guide.
Well, let me check the PCB first.
(plastic crinkling)
Wow.
I opened it from the wrong way.
Ha-ha.
(calm happy music)
Hot-swap PCB USBC on the top left.
And it's pretty, it's a pretty PCB
but the real question is, should I check the PCB?
And the answer to that is always check your PCB.
What are the odds of your keyboard not working?
I don't know, but last time I built the Iki Aurora
and it ended up not working on the L key.
So now I am forever traumatized.
Except now I can't type via, this is awkward.
Ugh.
I guess you don't need to check if they work or not.
If they're hot swap.
You have to do it from the back.
They're, they're hot swap sockets.
How do you do it from the back?
Oh, you touch the sockets.
Ah-ha.
Chat you're, you're very smart.
Like, so.
(electricity buzzing sound)
Oh, that does work.
Your geniuses.
Always test your PCB.
Even if you don't know how like me.
I'm ready.
Will really shocked me?
I don't think so.
Eh.
(Buzzing noise)
Just kidding.
Oh no, it worked.
It's just really inconvenient.
Entertaining stream you have ever seen.
Switch and click test PCB.
Only to find out 100% of the keys are working.
Surprise
and everything works.
Oh, that was hard work.
Stabilizer time.
My least favorite time of all.
No, that is not what I should be doing
because I haven't lubed all of my switches yet.
This is up to you I have pre looped
the majority of my switches right here.
Except I saved 20 for the stream.
Oh ho-ho.
Lubing stream.
So these are Gateron Black Ink V2's.
These are stuck in my hands right now.
So I will now lube the rest of them.
And when you lube switches
you should never ever use a pretty desk mat.
I was going to bring you the terrible desk mat
that has everything wrong with it.
But I figured I shouldn't do that to you
but I'll just use the foam that came with the case.
Krytox, weird lube, a brush, a switch opener and tweezers.
(calm music)
I am seriously running out of that krytox.
There's like nothing left.
Real empty there.
And then I have a really strange mix in here.
You don't wanna know what's in there
but I use it for my springs now.
It's like a really jank mix of AliExpress lubricant
plus really jank lubricant that I made
from super lubes and oils.
And it's, it's just, it's a mess.
It's time taking to take it apart.
So here's what I like to do.
It's probably not efficient
but I use this weird mystery lube because I have it.
So I might as well use it.
And I pick up all the of springs, one at a time
with my tweezers and do a little dip, but not too much dip.
Cause if you dip too much, then you're done.
So is it slow?
I don't know, but I like it.
And at first I was worried that this wouldn't be enough lube
on the springs, but as I do this more and more often
this is just my way of doing it.
I like doing five or 10 switches at a time
and then taking a break and then repeating.
Now I like to lube the stem.
You just loop one side of the spring.
That's what I do because when you end up
let me just finish one for you.
Oh, it's linear.
So I just do this lazy bit.
Cause when you end up swishing it,
when you end up pressing it over and over and over again.
The lube will move throughout the entire spring.
So there's lube at the bottom now.
But when you press, you can press the whole spring together
and then the lube touches the entire spring.
So when you let go now your entire spring is lubed.
Just my preference on how I like to lube switches.
If you're new
and you have not developed your own way yet.
Taeha probably has the best tutorial
out there on the internet.
(swoosh sound)
I think everyone develops their own way
after a little bit.
Indy, no.
No Indy, no.
No.
All right.
She's, she's gotta go.
No Indy.
Err.
She's QCing the lube.
No, she's trying to get her hair
all over whatever's happening here.
(gulping water sound)
(happy music)
Lubing takes forever.
I agree.
That's why I don't like doing it.
It also hurts my back and my neck and every everything else.
It's just such a painful event.
Yeah.
I just lube spring and stem.
Just faster.
Finally.
Lubing 20 switches surprisingly
takes a large amount of time.
Unexpected.
Put these in the bag
and then put this away.
Next.
Here is my D 65.
The first step in the build guide is to
put the gaskets onto the plate.
These are thick, thick gaskets.
It goes like this,
First use 16 gaskets
to stick the protruding part of the plate along the edge.
Does that make sense?
Make sure it's neatly pasted.
Oh gosh.
There's different size gaskets apparently.
We're looking forward to a good time.
I have a small one.
The small one goes at the top side of arrows.
Like so
and I make sure they're neatly pasted.
It appears to be quite neat of shaky fingers.
I don't think this is gonna go so well.
This is so time consuming.
Why is everything time consuming?
I haven't even done stabilizers yet.
Two more.
And then I'm done.
I'm finally done.
(happy upbeat music)
Not too bad.
I feel like there, there's some really long parts like this.
(slow music)
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Back to the video.
(happy music)
Step two light screws.
I need three and threes and three standoff.
I'll do these first.
This one looks easy.
Feet time.
The easiest part of any build.
Probably my favorite part of any build.
You just align it with the hole
and then put it in and turn it around.
Open them all.
I've got a lot of screws.
These are obviously standoffs
and now I have to find what fits in these standoffs.
This guide is not a good guide.
I don't even know what I'm doing.
I think that one's the right one.
(drilling sound)
No, that's not bad.
That looks right.
(calm music)
(drilling sound)
Ah, all of them are in.
Next take.
Okay, I've already done this.
I've already test the PCB.
Cause I was smart.
Now I need stabilizers.
The worst part of any keyboard video is this.
They have the KBDFANS stabilizers
but I usually don't opt to use these.
So I will be using my durock V2's.
Oh they also provided foams of different sorts.
So we'll look at these.
Use 'em later.
Now I ripped, I ripped the bag.
I'm strong.
One,
two,
three.
It'd be pretty fast.
If I'm lucky, this should be a pretty fast.
I'm actually really interested in this build.
I haven't used gateron black inks in a really long time.
Let me get bandaids.
Ah.
I always hate this part.
The amount of the size at which you cut it.
(electronic sound)
Holee mod.
I think I cut it too big.
This one would be thinner.
The peer pressure is too real.
Now I'll cut it and then fold it in.
People make bandaid mod look easy.
It's not.
That's why I never ever do it.
It takes such precision too.
I have one.
Check it out.
(sigh)
Okay.
I've got it.
Chat says it's so easy.
It's so easy.
If it was easy, I would do it for every keyboard
but it's not.
Cause typically I don't wanna review things anyways.
Indy, Indy, Indy, no.
Indy, no.
Don't touch me.
No.
Indy.
Calm down please.
Calm down.
Okay.
Holee mod is done.
And now I have to lube it.
Lube everything.
Cool.
Oh no.
I put, I put on too much.
That's okay.
Too much lube.
No problem.
But now I lube these bandaid thingies
because chat tells me to.
This is peer pressure after all.
Indy no.
Stop.
Hey, that's done.
Put these things inside their housings
and then do the whole wire thing
and pray that the whole thing turns out to be good.
Time for the grease.
My cats are all over Instagram.
If you want more cat content.
We make cat content on Instagram.
This is super lube.
Put that in there.
That's one.
Okay.
Now I have to test it.
Why don't you go on?
Did I mess something up?
Oh my God.
That's straight up mush.
It's fine.
It's the plate.
Okay.
I'm using the polycarb plate.
The mush will be gone.
I sure hope so.
Stabilizers are good.
Next PCB foam.
This is case foam.
That's different.
PCB foam.
That goes right there.
Like that.
PCB foam.
That was easy.
PCB screws.
Oh, now, now it's a little more difficult.
This goes in here.
And then I flip it around.
Am I missing any?
And that should be all of them.
Now, finally,
finally switches.
These are Gateron black inks.
V2's they are lubed.
(clicking sound)
They are smooth.
And will you hate me if I say it?
(electronic swoosh)
They are thocky.
Cringe.
This build didn't take as long as I thought.
I feel like we're, we're making good time here.
Even though I was peer pressured into doing hollee mod
but we're, we're making really good time.
Okay.
All the switches are in.
What is next?
The top case.
Okay.
This, this is hilarious.
I, I have, I have to show you these, these instructions.
It says the top case.
It says place the assembled PCB on the upper piece
in the direction shown in the figure,
paying attention to the USB interface.
Don't pretend to be crooked.
Don't pretend.
Don't pretend okay.
Before I do that, I have to take apart this case.
Take off the top case
and then do this taking care to align the USB port
and do not pretend to be crooked.
Bottom case foam.
Please go faster.
I am literally doing the best that I could.
So I would appreciate it.
Bottom case foam and then bottom case.
Like so.
Now I can install these screws back in.
(drilling sound)
At this point,
I think it's time for key cap.
And then assembly is complete.
The key caps are from KBDFANS.
They are their KAT.
K A T black on white key caps.
A different profile than what I'm used to.
Not typically something that I would use.
I usually have jerry profile,
but you know it's nice to experiment a little while.
Varieties the of spice of life,
after all.
They feel very smooth.
Their PBT dye-sup PBT very nice feeling.
Okay.
It's clean.
Ready.
You plug it in and please tell me it works.
There we go.
Got some RGB.
Okay.
Everything works.
It's nice to not make mistakes for once.
(Typing sound)
Dang.
It sounds good.
I'm gonna say that thock.
Yeah, this is probably the most thocky build
I've made so far.
KAT profile.
It's interesting.
Not bad looking.
Overall though the keyboard is beautiful.
I don't know what this is here.
It's nice.
Except the quality control issue on the cap.
I think it's the plate
and not necessarily the key caps
because the key caps are nice.
I think the plate is cut slightly off
where the switch just exists slightly off from the center.