To reset the sensor, just Rotate the switch to RESET and briefly press the plus or minus
button.
You’ll see the red F LED light up.
Set the Rotary switch back to RUN mode and you are done.
Note that this resets the sensor to high resolution MODE, Rising characteristic where voltage
and current increase with range, Full range of operation, and filter function turned off.
The output type – current or voltage – is NOT changed by RESET function.
You can turn the laser light on or off using pin 5 and you can change the polarity of that
input.
Just set the rotary switch to Rxd/La Mode position.
To change the polarity, you just press the plus and the minus buttons to get the LEDs
to look like this.
Basically, when the U-LED is on, the laser turns off at 24 volts.
When the I LED is lit, 0VDC turns the laser off.
Be sure to switch the rotary switch back to run mode when you are done.
To swich between current and voltage output modes, set the rotary switch to U/I Mode.
The Red F LED lights up.
If the U Led is yellow – we are in Voltage mode – zero to 10 volts.
If the I LED lights up, we are in current mode, four to twenty milliamps.
Press the plus and minus buttons to change modes and then switch back to RUN mode when
you are done.
These sensors default to a hi-resoluton mode.
But you can change that to a lower resolution to get a faster resonse time and therefore
a faster sample rate if that is what you need.
That makes sense because it takes the sensor longer to get more accurate results, so it
slows down the sample rate.
If you don’t need higher resolution, then as you can see here, this option can cut the
response time in half or better which doubles the sample rate - that’s pretty good.
Let’s put the resolution into perspective … a standard playing card is about 280um
thick.
In hires mode these sensors can resolve thicknesses down to these levels, and in lo-res or high
speed mode the resolution is more like this.
To switch modes, just rotate the dial to Res./Speed Mode.
The F Light should be red.
If U is lit – we are in High Speed mode, if I is lit, we are in high res mode.
Press the plus and minus buttons to switch between the two and turn the dial back to
run mode when you are done.
Each of the sensors has a different range of distances that it operates over.
I’m using the 2005 for this video, and its normal full range is 50 to 350 mm or roughly
2 to 14 inches.
You have three ways you can modify this: In the first mode, you can only change the
minimum range- the max range will default to whatever the max of the sensor is – and
this mode will always use a rising slope with current or voltage increasing with distance.
To do this one, rotate the switch to TEACH, then place an object at the nearest distance
you want to start detecting things at, and then press an hold the minus button until
BOTH LEDS light up.
Rotate the switch back to Run and you are ready to go.
In this mode, you can change both the min and the max distances so that increasing range
gives you an increasing output.
To do this one, rotate the switch to TEACH, the RED F light should light up, and then
you place an object at the most distant range and press the plus button and to confirm that
was recorded, the ”I” LED lights up.
Now you place the object at the nearest distance you want to measure, and press the minus button.
Now both LEDs should be lit.
If both LEDs don’t light up, that means that either the two set points are too close
together, or one of them was out of range or something like that.
If that happens, just repeat this step: move the nearest object so it is in range or it
is not too close to the other one, and press the minu again.
You set this one up the same way we set the last one up, except the buttons and LEDs are
reversed.
Let’s try it.
Rotate the switch to TEACH, RED led should light up, place an object at the most distant
range again but this time you press the mnus button and you’ll see the U LED light up.
Remember for the previous on it was the I LED.
Now move the object to the nearest point and press the plus button this time and both LEDs
should light up.
Just like the previous one, If both LEDs are not lit, then just repeat this step once you
have the nearest point adjusted.
Note that these three sensors use class 1 lasers and these three sensors use class 2
lasers.
The class 2 lasers sensors can resolve the accuracy quicker, which gets you roughly a
50% improvement in sample rate.
The class 2 lasers come with the appropraite safety lables, so please be sure to use those
… If you have a target with a glossy surface,
especially a dark glossy surface like a black laquer finish for example, then be sure to
mount the sensor about 5 degrees off axis to prevent direct reflections.
These sensors uses an angle measurement technique to determine distance and a strong direct
reflection can interfere with that.
And don’t forget.
AutomationDirect’s Tech Support is FREE during normal business hours using the phone,
email or even live chat.
And don’t forget to check out the forum – that’s another great way to get help.
Automationdirec offers Wenglor distance measuring sensors all the way out to 100 meters.
Check out the other videos in this series to learn how to setup the other Wenglor distance
measuring devices.