- Hey, what's up guys.
Welcome back to another episode
of Chemical Guys: Detail Garage.
Today in the shop we have this white Mustang.
Now, right off the bat,
I know you're looking at the car and saying,
"Hey, you know, that looks pretty clean",
but I said the same exact thing.
And it wasn't until I took a look closer, where I saw,
this paint is trash, it's super contaminated.
It has a lot of industrial fallout,
rust spots, and all that kind of contamination
that's embedded into the paint.
So I want to show you guys
how to wash and decontaminate, and protect this vehicle
so that we get the best shine and the best protection,
and get this car looking as great as possible.
So, to start off with, a little backstory on this vehicle.
This vehicle is, you know,
it's one of those rental cars
that they get sold to customers,
and these rental cars, for the most part,
you know, most people that rent a car,
they don't really care for the car.
It's just kind of like a little, you know,
gets them from A to B and they care nothing for the car,
because it's not theirs.
So what happens in that little bubble, right there?
Well, the car gets neglected.
It gets taken to those drive through car washes.
You know, most dealers, if they do wash them there,
they use them with their same dirty towels
that they use to wash hundreds of other cars.
I mean, I have a car that isn't as new as this,
and, I'll tell you this,
it looks a lot better than the paint on this.
So I just want to make sure to give this paint the justice
and ultimately show you guys out at home,
those of you guys have white cars,
show you guys had to make
the best possible shine out of a white car.
I mean, as most of you guys know,
white is one of those colors
that is very, very hard to make shine
just because it doesn't really reflect much.
So we're going to show you guys how to
and achieve those shine results on your vehicle.
So stay tuned. We have some awesome content coming your way.
First things first, the wash.
That's right, you guys named it.
You guys guessed it.
Washing the vehicle is the first key component
in getting this paint back to brand new.
So we're going to be using our two bucket wash method.
I don't know if you guys saw,
but the vehicle is pretty filthy.
It has a lot of dust, embedded grime,
pollution, industrial fallout.
So this white car is relatively known
for having those kinds of contaminants stick out,
because you see everything on the white paint.
So, two bucket method,
just to make sure that we have a filtered wash.
I do have my four-way wash mitt here,
which pretty much has the Chanel noodles on one side.
So that's going to be nice.
And that's going to allow us
to agitate heavy grime.
We also have this kind of mesh on the side.
Let me see if I can get those noodles out of the way.
We have this mesh material on the side,
which is going to do great
at removing tar and bugs that are embedded onto the paint.
And then we also have this soft side, this microfiber side,
which works out great for maintenance.
So, ever in the future,
if you want to use the same wash mitt
to maintain your vehicle and give it a nice,
clean, and filtered, and smooth wash,
this microfiber material works out super great.
And then you also have one more side right here,
which is just another bug, tar remover.
So that's going to work out great.
The front end doesn't have too much bug and tar,
but it's great that we have that,
just in case we have another vehicle like that.
The next soap that we're going to be using
is going to be Citrus Wash Clear.
Now I decided to use Citrus Wash Clear
because it's a citrus-based product.
That's going to go in and break down heavy grime,
but it's also pH neutral.
So for you guys that love that citrus-based power,
but love also that pH neutral, you know,
compatibility with your vehicle,
so that you won't strip your waxes and sealants,
this works out great.
And I'm also going to be accompanying it with Clean Slate.
I don't know if you guys know, but Clean Slate,
it's a surface cleansing wash.
So, that soap right there,
it's going to do great at breaking down
any kind of waxes, and sealants, and glazes
that are on the paint.
I mean, this car doesn't look like it's had
any kind of maintenance or any kind of waxes
put on there for a while,
just because the paint is super bare,
it's super rough,
so that's just one of those clear indications
that it hasn't been taken care of.
So Clean Slate is going to do an amazing job
at breaking down any kind of oils that are on there,
and prepping the surface for us to
and clay, and then polish, and et cetera.
So, the last thing that we have here is our foam cannon.
Now, I am going to be using the foam cannon here,
just because I want to
and get the maximum lubrication.
So, what I mean by that,
is the paint is super jacked up already.
We don't want to make it any worse by not using the,
you know, the right amount of lubrication.
So we're going to use a foam cannon
with our Citrus Wash Clear and our mixture of Clean Slate.
So what I'd like to do here is
I have my foam cannon bottle already filled up with water.
Now I'm going to go in and grab my Citrus Wash Clear.
I'm going to have to remove this little plastic on here,
because it is a brand new bottle.
I'm going to take that right off.
And I'm going to go in and squirt about an ounce of product
into my foam cannon here.
And, for you guys that don't know,
an ounce of product is pretty much equivalent
to one good squeeze with Citrus Wash Clear.
Now all you want to do is grab your Clean Slate,
and same thing, we're going to
and put one ounce of that into there,
and there we have it.
So I'm going to go in and set that down.
I'm going to put my foam cannon nozzle back on top
and just make sure to lock that in place.
And then, this is one more thing,
you want to make sure to stir it in.
You don't want to shake it,
because you don't want the bubbles to form
inside the bottle here.
You want your solution to stay true.
So just make sure to stir it,
so that the product mixes together,
so that, when the water gets through,
it jets through with the soap
and not with the foam that's in there.
And just like that, we're ready to go.
Our foam cannon is ready to go.
And now, all I'd like to do,
is with our two bucket method here,
grab some more Citrus Wash Clear.
I'm going to dedicate my red bucket here to my soap bucket.
So what I'm going to do is, one good squirt,
never hurt, and now we're ready to wash.
So now I'm going to proceed
with rinsing on the vehicle.
I do have the pressure washer connected,
just because there's a lot of dirt and grime,
and I want to make sure to get all the dirt and grime
out of all the cracks and edges.
So I'm going to give it a pre rinse,
and then we're going to come back with you guys
to show you guys, with the wash mitt,
the soap and all the rest of the stuff.
So stay tuned.
All right guys, and there you guys have it.
As you can see, we're done. I'm just kidding guys.
You guys just see, with just the rinse,
it already changed the tone of his white car.
It actually brought out that bright white look,
as opposed to, like, that dull,
kind of yellow, kind of look.
So now we're going to
and take off our pressure washer tip here.
And I'm going to connect my foam cannon
into my TORQ snubby here,
and proceed with the foaming so that we get that nice,
lubricated and sudsy soap going on.
All right, so, now that we've finished foaming up the car,
it's time to wipe it down with our wash mitt.
Now we're going to get our wash mitt
and we're going to dunk it into our soap bucket here,
which I already foamed up.
I just simply put my pressure washer gun into there,
foamed up the product,
the Citrus Wash Clear that I put in there earlier,
just to activate the suds.
Now I can grab my wash mitt here,
dunk it in there, and get that nice layer of cleaning suds
on my wash mitt,
so that our wash mitt is completely lubricated.
And we prevent the chance of any kind of scratches rolling
that can happen.
So now that we've done that,
you guys see the paint is still foamed up.
Whenever you're working on your vehicle,
you want to make sure to work in straight motions.
Why? Because, you guys saw the swirl marks.
Those are caused by improper wash technique.
So if the car is filthy as this,
if I got the wash mitt out,
and I started going like this around the vehicle,
that's what's going to cause your swirl marks.
So make sure to use straight motions.
And this is going to prevent the chance
of you installing a swirl mark,
because a fine, light, straight scratch
is a lot easier to polish out, than a circular swirl mark.
And you want to make sure
to get about half the car done
before you come back to wipe off your wash mitt,
and also get underneath the windshield wiper here.
Now you want to come back to your rinse bucket.
Before you come into your rinse bucket,
you want to make sure to ring this out.
Go into your rinse bucket here,
and then you want to scrub,
the fibers of the wash mitt,
towards the bottom, where the dirt trap is,
and that's going to release
any kind of embedded dirt
that's on the fibers of the wash mitt,
and filter it through the dirt trap.
So now you see a nice, clean wash mitt.
Grab it, ring it out.
Ring it out once more.
And this is the whole two bucket method.
So if you guys haven't seen the two bucket method before,
this is what it is, rinse it, come back to your soap bucket,
get it nice and lubricated all over again,
and then you repeat the process around the vehicle.
The way I like to do it is, I'll do the roof,
the windshield and the hood, come to my rinse bucket,
come back and forth, and do the top parts of the vehicle,
and then do the sides, and then do the lower parts.
That way you don't get any kind of contamination
that's on the lower part of your vehicle
and get it to the top,
and, you know, cross-contaminate.
As you guys know,
you drive through a lot of harsh abrasives,
such as brake dust, dirt, grime, salt,
that stuff usually cakes at the bottom of your vehicle,
because your tires fling that onto the paint.
So you want to make sure to-- don't work backward-forward,
clean the top, clean the bottom, how gravity works,
and then you'll have a great time
and a great washing experience.
So I'm going to continue
with cleaning the rest of the vehicle,
and then I'm going to rinse it off
and come back with you guys for the drying process.
All right, so now that we've finished washing
and rinsing off the vehicle, I want to drive the vehicle,
but I want you guys to be with me while I drive,
because I want to show you guys and point out a few things.
The first thing is I'm going to be using
a waffle weave towel.
Now, I don't know if you guys can see the paint,
but the paint still looks dirty.
And that's just because it's a white car
that has embedded contamination.
So, you guys can see,
it looks like you have a lot of little yellow,
brown specks on the paint.
That stuff is not going to come off with the regular wash.
That stuff is going to require a clay bar
in order to get that removed.
The next thing is...
no slickness to the paint.
Clean Slate removes all those waxes and sealants
on the paint so that your paint is completely bare.
You can indicate that by feeling it,
and you can hear that, just like, that nasty--
like that nasty sound,
that pretty much indicates
that there's no sort of lubrication on there.
So that's going to be great for us,
for when we polish,
because there's not going to be
any kind of oils or stuff that's on the paint,
that's going to interfere with the results.
The last thing is I'm using filtered water.
Now I know a lot of you professionals out there,
looking at me, and saying,
"Holy hell," you know, "this guy is crazy."
"He's washing a car outside in direct sunlight."
Don't worry.
The water's filtered. There's no minerals,
alkaline, or calcium deposits in the water.
So it's just straight water.
So if the water were to, hypothetically,
dry up like that, it would not leave any stains.
So that works out great in our case.
I'm still going to expedite the process and wipe it down
with my waffle weave towel,
because I want to make sure that it's completely dry
and there's nothing on there.
And the way I like using this towel
is I like folding it in half
and just dragging it across the paint work.
You do have different techniques for drawing,
as well as blotting,
so you can put the towel onto the surface,
blot it out, and that's going to
and pretty much soak up
all the water that's under it, just like that.
But, since this vehicle has no kind of protection on it,
it means that the water is now going to sheet off.
It's not going to come off as easily,
because the paint is completely bare.
So now I'm going to continue
with drying the rest of the vehicle.
I'm going to pull it inside,
so I'm not outdoors and, you know,
sweating this whole time,
so that we have a more comfortable, clean experience.
So, stay tuned.
One last thing that I did forget to mention is,
with your drying towel,
it's going to react differently to different types of paint.
So such as this right here, it's a bare contaminated paint.
So when your paint is contaminated,
that means you have pockets of contamination
on the surface of the vehicle,
which, oftentimes, whenever you're trying to dry your car,
and you get kind of like a drag, kind of streak look,
it's because, that water,
it's not being able to get absorbed by the towel.
So you have a lot of remanent of water
that's still entrapped in that pocket of contamination.
So that's one thing to keep in mind
whenever you're using your towel
and choosing your towel.
So that's why I like using the waffle weave,
because it's super absorbent
and it works out great for drying out vehicles
that are, you know, maintained,
and smooth as glass,
or unmaintained and contaminated really bad.
So, like I said,
I'm going to continue with drying the rest of the vehicle
and we'll proceed with the clay bar process,
so that I can show you guys how to remove
all these little yellow and brown specks
that are on the white paint.
- All right guys, car is clean, it's dried,
and now it's inside, ready for us to decontaminate it.
So we're going to be going
and going with our heavy clay bar.
Now, the reason I'm going with the heavy clay bar
is because this is going to be a heavy and sticky clay bar
for this heavy embedded contamination that's on this paint.
So, with this right here, it's a brand new clay bar.
I just grabbed it from the store.
I'm going to take it out of its packaging.
And then you'll have two plastic sleeves on here
that you'll want to take off.
Make sure to take them off,
you know, don't leave them on there.
Take them off on both sides.
And then you want to grab yourself a chunk.
Now, right away, I want you guys to notice
how sticky this clay bar is,
how much it stretches.
So you want to make sure to grab a good amount of clay bar,
like right here, I may have grabbed a little too much.
So I'm just going to rip this little tail off.
Boom.
And then put that back into my packaging here.
So now that I have my clay bar,
I'm going to get the rest
and just put it in my pocket for now,
until I need some more.
Cool.
So now that we have that,
and I like to knead my clay bar into like a little patty
that I can grab with my forefingers.
And I'm going to knead that around,
into like a little patty, and there you guys go,
nice and easy.
And now we can begin the clay bar process.
So right here, I have clay lubricant.
It's in a 32 ounce spray bottle.
So now I'm going to go to do the trunk.
Right off the bat, I want you guys to see
like, this little lip right here,
it has a ton of contamination.
You see all the little yellow, brown specks
that are on there.
For some reason, that area seems to have them
the worst, along with the bumper right here.
But we're just going to be worrying about this right here.
So what I'm going to do is,
I'm going to grab the clay lubricant
and I'm going to spray directly
onto the surface here.
Spray it directly onto the surface
and make sure to spray a good amount,
just because you want it super slick.
Spray your clay bar,
and now you just want to gently
glide to the left and right.
And, right away, you're going to see
that it pulls off all that little embedded contamination,
which are usually indicated
by those little brown, yellow specks.
Like I mentioned, that's all industrial fallout,
you know, rust, stuff that lands on the paint
that you can physically, you know,
on a different colored car, see,
but you can feel.
So in a black car you'll feel it,
you won't necessarily see it,
but on a white car, you'll feel it and you'll see it.
Once you do a little area, you grab your towel,
and inspect the paint.
And you guys can see, it knocked
a lot of that yellow, brown
little contamination from there,
but it can still use a little bit more,
just because it's super contaminated.
Like I said, it's a 2016,
but I really don't know where this car was parked.
It could have been parked next to an industrial plant,
for all I know.
And it just resulted in all the contamination
embedding itself on there.
So I'm going to continue with this little section,
and show you guys a little 50-50
on what your paint should look like,
versus what it shouldn't look like.
Check that out, guys,
so, I put a piece of tape down,
so we can kind of get, like, a little hard line 50-50.
Now that I buff off the residue,
that kind of landed under the tape,
I want you guys to pay attention to the paint,
see how the left side right here, it's more brighter.
You have a brighter shade of white,
and you don't have all the little yellow specks
on there anymore,
as opposed to the right side,
which you still have that rough feel.
You have all the little yellow specks on there
and the paint is still contaminated.
So I'm going to continue with clay bar
on the rest of the vehicle.
If you guys liked this video,
if you guys liked, you know, this demonstration,
if you learned something new today,
make sure to "like" the video
and also comment, down below.
My name is Joey, this is Chemical Guys: Detail Garage.
We'll see you guys next time.