Ljubljana feels small.
It is, with only about a quarter of a million people.
But it's by far the country's largest city,
its cultural capital, and a charming place
to kick off any Slovenian trip.
A fortress has capped Ljubljana's hill
since Roman times.
As if turning its back on its hard-fought history,
the city playfully straddles its sleepy river.
Ljubljana is laid-back,
the kind of place where crumbling buildings
seem elegantly atmospheric rather than shoddy.
In its relaxed pedestrian center,
it seems all roads lead to the main square.
Fancy facades and whimsical bridges
ornament daily life with a Slovenian twist.
Centuries of rule from Vienna
under the German-speaking Habsburgs
seems to have both inspired
an appreciation of the good life
and strengthened the local spirit.
The statue of France Preseren, Slovenia's greatest poet,
reminds locals that their language and culture
are both distinct and worthy of pride.
The Triple Bridge --
where the town square joins the river --
is both a popular meeting place
and a beloved symbol of the city.
The bridge seems almost Venetian.
That's because the architect recognized that Ljubljana
is midway between Venice and Vienna,
and the city itself was and still is
a bridge between the Italian and the Germanic worlds.
The riverfront market is a hive of activity,
where big-city Slovenes
enjoy buying directly from the farmer.
Over time, shoppers develop
friendships with their favorite producers.
In this tiny country, it seems like
everybody knows each other.
Some farmers still use wooden carts to bring veggies in
from their garden patches.
The market is a perfect opportunity
to connect with the locals.
-"Dober dan." -"Dober dan."
-Um, cherries? -Yes.
Um, half kilo.
How do you say "half kilo"?
-"Pol kilo." -"Pol kilo."
"Pol kilo." "Pol kilo" -- this is your farm?
Our farm, yes.
They are fresh.
Yes, they're very good.
These scales allow buyers to immediately
double-check the arithmetic,
just in case.
Habsburg days left locals with the old saying,
"trust is good; Control is better."
Half a kilo -- it's just right.
The market's picturesque colonnade
is designed to link the town and the river.
It feels made-to-order for conviviality --
enjoying a drink or observing the market action.
Nearby, vintners proudly share their wines.
These wines, from the northeast of Slovenia,
are considered some
of the country's best.
Perhaps Ljubljana's single best activity
is simply strolling the riverfront promenade
and sitting in an outdoor cafe
to watch the stylish Slovenes strut their stuff.
As home to the country's main university,
youthful Ljubljana
is busy with students.
An earthquake leveled the city in 1895.
It was rebuilt in the art nouveau
and art deco styles so popular in Vienna,
the empire's capital at the time.
Ljubljana remains a treasure-trove
of engaging architecture.
This striking building was designed by
an ambitious local architect,
hoping to forge
a uniquely Slovenian style.
But the big name in local architecture
and urban design is Jože Plečnik.
Like Gaudí shaped Barcelona and Bernini shaped Rome,
Plečnik shaped Ljubljana.
He lived in the early 20th century,
studied in Vienna, made his name in Prague,
and had his greatest impact right here,
in his hometown.
Prolific Plečnik essentially remodeled
his hometown with his distinctive
classical-meets-modern style.
Along with the triple bridge and the market colonnade,
Plečnik's brilliance for urban design --
the ability to connect
Ljubljanans to their city and river --
is evident in his cobbler's bridge.
Because he loved his town,
walked to work each day, and had to live with
what he designed, Plečnik was
particularly thoughtful about incorporating
aesthetics, nature,
and people's needs into his work.
The house of Ljubljana's favorite son is on
an unassuming street,
but behind the gate, in his garden,
the creative world of Plečnik opens up.
Guides, passionate about his work,
give meaning to his home.
Woman: So this is Plečnik's room,
where he worked, and he slept here.
So, his bed, right next to his work table.
Yes, absolutely.
And a single bed? Was he never married?
No, he was married to the architecture.
But on the other hand, you have here a gilded sculpture
on the top of the ceiling.
Some kind of a muse, you know.
But if you look all around,
you will see there are many, many
personal objects -- his glasses, or,
for example, his hat.
He was famous by that hat.
He was always wearing it
and always dressed in black.
So Plečnik is very important to the Slovenian people.
Absolutely.
He left such a strong mark, not only in Vienna and Prague,
but definitely in Ljubljana,
because all the land accesses
and river accesses are designed by Plečnik.
And his heritage lives on today
as the people enjoy his city.
That is the most important.
All the bridges are crowded, you know,
and the architecture really lives,
even nowadays.
If this city works for its people
and fits their character,
it's at least in part thanks to Jože Plečnik.