Hey guys. How's it going? Today I’m going to show you how I made these dog bowl stands. We do have
the plans available on our website. There is the small version and the larger version for different
sized dogs. So definitely check those out. There's a link down in the description. Without further
ado, let me show you how I made them. We're going to start off by flattening
this piece of wood. If you can believe it this is a piece of walnut that I salvaged
from a burn pile at a sawmill. There was a much bigger piece attached to this but I was
able to get this little piece out of it and it'll work perfectly for this dog bowl stand.
So using the StepCraft M.1000 with the vacuum table, we're able to get this flattened off using
the RC-2265 3 wing insert carbide flattening bit. Did a great job and you can see that beautiful
grain there on the wood. So we're going to pick up the 45624-K 60-degree Spectra-coated
V-bit to do the engraving here on the name. So we're going to go through here and carve
in my dog's name. His name is Moose. So we're just going to get all of that carved in. This
bit is doing a great job going mostly cross grain on this walnut, leaving a really nice clean cut,
even through some of that really really difficult grain. So we got all of the letters carved out
here. So with this one I had a lot of small areas, so I wanted to have a deeper carve,
so I’m using a 60 degree bit. So for the larger areas we're going to carve in some paws using the
RC-45711 90-degree V-insert bit. For these areas I don't have a ton of detail
so I don't need to carve quite as deep. So this is gonna save the amount of epoxy
that I need to use, and also give me a shallower carve with getting the same detail that I want.
So we went through and you can see that it did a really nice job cutting through the walnut which
is exactly what we want to see. So after that's all done we're going to use some sanding sealer
to seal up the grain. That way when we put the epoxy in there it's not
going to bleed into the grain of the walnut. I use some painters’ tape just to prevent the
epoxy from getting where I don't want it. We got all of that inlaid into the carved-out areas.
I let that dry overnight and then it's time to get that all flattened off using the RC-2265
3-wing insert carbide flattening bit. We're gonna get all of that done. I
used a piece of blue tape there to set my Z-zero position just above the surface of the material.
This will allow just a little bit of material left to be sanded down.
That way we don't carve into the actual wood. Get that vacuumed off and then we can begin the
sanding process with some 220 grit sandpaper. Took just a few passes and we have a really nice look.
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that bell so you'll be notified on all of the new videos when they're released. Also don't
forget to follow us on Instagram @ToolsToday. Just popping the grain with some water, and I
really love the way that everything turned out. So now we're gonna pick up the 46170-K
quarter-inch compression bit to get the rest of the design all cut out the vacuum table
holds everything down really nicely and we can get everything cut. The compression bit has a
up-cut portion and a down-cut portion on the bit, so that means that as long as you plunge
below the up cut portion of that bit you'll get a clean top and bottom surface of the material,
which is exactly what we want to see here. These bits do work on hardwood as well,
not just for plywood, so this is a solid walnut piece so it definitely works out really well here.
We're going down in three separate passes with the first pass being below the up cut portion
to get through the entire material. We got all of the pockets cut out
for where the dowels are going to attach these two together. So we got to get the legs cut out
as well. I left some tabs there to hold these together as these are smaller pieces and I just
wanted to make sure that nothing would move. Using the Fein MultiTool, this is a MultiMaster,
we went through and cut through those tabs to show the legs. So now that we have the legs done
we can move on and focus on the top of this piece. So we'll get that put down. This is going to be
a live-edge cherry piece. We'll get that sucked down to the waste board as well with the vacuum
table and it's definitely not going anywhere. It's using the same quarter-inch compression
bit. We'll get all of these cut out for the two holes for the water dish and the food dish. So
this quarter-inch compression bit does a really nice job here and again we left some tabs to
hold everything in place on the last pass. So we got those all cut free using the same
MultiTool and we have a nice fit for the dog bowl dish which is definitely really nice to see.
Now we'll move on to getting the tabs all flush trimmed and then adding just
a little bit of a round over to these pieces. I accomplished both of those at the same time
using the 49544 1/8 inch radius four flute flush trim bit. Left a really nice soft edge to the
touch without rounding it over too much, so just kind of eases over that edge just like if you're
hand sanding anything, and then it's tall enough to be able to flush trim those tabs as well.
I did the same thing for both sides on the top and bottom of the top where the bowls will all sit in.
So now we need to think about joining these two pieces together. There's a number of different
ways that you can do this. I chose to use Z-clips for this and the FesTool Domino to drill out the
pockets for it. You could even use a biscuit joiner or even a router, or you could even
just use something like pocket holes to attach these two together, but this worked out really
well. These Z-clips are really nice as they fit in there and will attach to the top and still allow
for wood movement independently on both pieces. So now that that is all drilled out we can get
the dowels all cut down to size using a 60 tooth general purpose blade over
on the SawStop table saw. So we got all of those done and now we can use some Titebond
3 wood glue to get everything fully assembled. I’m just making sure that I got plenty of glue
there in the pocket and then inserting the dowel in. It's a really nice fit. This is definitely
something that you want to make sure that you do a test piece on before, to ensure that you get
a great fit, and I used a square to make sure that we have those installed perfectly square.
I only inserted them on one piece, let the glue fully dry, that way it is dried fully square,
and then we only need to worry about adding on the next piece after the glue has fully dried.
So after that glue has dried we can now add the second piece on there, and now that we know that
everything is nice and square, we can just get everything hammered in until it is nice and flush.
So I used a wet rag there to wipe off any excess glue to make cleanup easier on the
outside. So on the inside though, there are some areas that are really difficult to get into,
so I’m using the Fein MultiMaster with the sanding attachment to help me clean up the glue
squeeze-out in those really tight areas. This is definitely a great tool for getting in there where
it's really difficult with any other sort of power tool like that, so, this definitely sped up the
process of getting everything ready for finish. We're going to be using some Walrus Oil furniture
butter and this worked out really well, popping that grain, making it look incredible on this
walnut. I absolutely love the way that this looks. Adds a really nice protection to the wood as well.
I also really like the way that the cherry dials contrast with the walnut, and then also match
the top of the tray with the cherry live edge slab. So that definitely worked out really well.
After 24 hours we got everything all buffed off and now we can get everything finally assembled.
Making sure that I have everything nice and centered on there and then using those z-clips,
I went ahead and painted them black, and I’ll use a self-centering bit here to drill out a
pilot hole for these screws to attach the base to the top. So everything turned out really
well - we did that on all six areas to ensure that this is nice and fully secured down to the top.
It worked out perfectly to secure everything down. So the last thing I want to do is add some feet to
the bottom of this just to give it a standoff off of the floor, and this dog bowl stand is done. I’m
super happy with the way that this came out. The grain looks absolutely amazing and the second one
that I made as well also came out really nice. So the plans for this do come with sizes for
smaller dogs as well as the larger one that I made as well, so you could make both of
those if you wanted to. These two sizes of dog bowl stands worked out perfectly for my
dog which is a miniature schnauzer, and my parents’ dog which is a soft coated Wheaton,
so they definitely look really nice. Now it's time to give the dogs their new dish.
So this is my dog. His name is Moose, and as I mentioned he is a miniature schnauzer,
and this definitely worked out really well. Caity loves feeding him, so that's always nice.
A little bit of spillage there but that's not a problem. so Riley's is the perfect size for
her as well and, uh, definitely looks really nice. I love the way that these guys turned out,
and I couldn't be happier with the overall project. So anyways Caity definitely wanted
to show off Moose doing some of his tricks and we'll let them finish out the video.
But hopefully you guys enjoyed this one. We'll catch you guys back out here on the next one.
Have a great day everybody. Good boy!
Good job. Come here pup. That's a good boy. That's a good boy.
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