hey everybody welcome to this episode of Chemical Guys detail garage today we
have an American classic in the shop a 1962 Ford Thunderbird and as you can see
it's got this oxidized look on one side and on the other half we've already
polished it giving it this glossy effect now what's gone here or happened
here is this cars been sitting outside and if you didn't know red absorbs UV
rays very poorly that's what starts to oxidize very quickly giving you this
matte finish but the best way to remove it and the only way to remove it is by
Machine polishing so we started off by using v36 with an orange cutting pad
because we don't want to take off a lot of material we're trying to use the
least aggressive approach even though we tried v32 which does remove a lot of
material and gives us a nice shine we don't need to go with that aggressive so
we've decided to step it down to V36 to get most of the oxidation off and
then come back with a white pad and V38 to really jewel the paint and clear
up any kind of tiger stripes or marring so when it continued the same process on
the rest of the vehicle and then we need to wax it so we can prevent future
damage now in a case like this if you want to put on a very strong durable
protective coating you can also use something like hydro slick or if you
want something more traditional you can go with your favorite glaze sealant or wax
combination to bring out that really torch red cherry glow of this
Thunderbird or on any color vehicle that you have yourself so to begin we've
already got our TORQ15DA set up with an orange hex-logic pad which again is
what we're using for our cutting because it has a mild cut but also a polishing
capability with v36 cutting polish and we'll just shake up the bottle we're
going to apply five dime sized dots to our pad and a dime is about the size of
one hex and if you're new to polishing I'll walk you through the steps of how
to polish and the proper technique before we do that we're going to apply a
little bit of pad conditioner and what this does is it helps to moisten the pad
which reduces friction and it cuts down on any kind of dusting but this is gonna
help your pad last as long as possible what I like to do is I'll work from the
center out this way I'm not leaning across an area that I've already
polished so we'll start here on the back of the hood at the very center we've
done our 50/50 and on the lowest speed setting we're going to spread out the
polish this way we can have an even amount all over the service that we're
going to working on which is about a two foot by two foot
section and also this is going to prevent us flinging polish when we turn
up at the highest speed setting so when you use the dual action polisher you
want to use the lowest speed setting to spread up your compound or your polish
and the highest speed setting to do the actual polishing you want to make sure
that it goes completely clear or translucent this way you're not leaving
any kind of you know swirls or scratches behind but you're also working in the
Polish giving it the proper breakdown time so it can actually do its job and then
you wanna take a clean microfiber towel and buff off any excess now also when
you're using any kind of polisher you want to make sure that you're on
applying too much pressure because this can one create a lot of heat and also it
can stall the pad so you're not actually doing any kind of correction you're
actually just you know basically vibrating across the surface which isn't
polishing you want to make sure that it's completely flat so it's not dipping
either nose down or backwards or side-to-side this way it's not creating
a hot spot which grant marring or that hologram effect I'm sure a lot of you
have seen so the proper technique is just to basically weigh down with
the weight of your hand and this hand back here is what's going to be guide in
the direction the pivot what I like to do is I put my thumb right here on the
backside basically right behind the analog screen this will keep you from
basically twisting it from side to side so like I said we'll use the low-speed
setting to spread it out and the highest speed center what we're going to be
using to do our actual polishing and then we'll give you guys a little
before-and-after here
As you can see the polish has gone basically clear so we're going to take a
clean microfiber towel and buff away any of the excess and as you can see on the
pad there since this is a single stage paint job it's going to have a lot of
residue on there which is again why we want to go with the least aggressive
approach because we don't want to take off a lot of material this is gonna save
you some of that paint and although it's not going to be 100% paint correction it
still looks a lot better this is a huge transformation from this non-reflective
matte side to you've actually got some kind of reflection although the paint is
cracking that's to be expected when the paint has been this old the owner says
it's not the original paint but it's been on there since at least you know
the early 90s so for what it is I think it looks fantastic you know and a lot of
people would say this is almost a survivor because it's all original so
we're going to continue the same process with v36
and then move on to V38 to really jewel the paint but one thing else I
want to mention and that is your arm speed which basically means as you're
polishing the speed that your arms are moving it's about an inch per second so
that you're not moving too quickly which creates a marring effect because polish
isn't properly breaking down but also you want to cover 50% of your last pass
so you're not leaving any kind of stripes this is the best way to get to an
uniform shine case you're moving the same amount of material over the entire
surface so we're gonna continue the same process that's the same as that
procedure for v38 and then we need to protect it and
that's probably where we're going to bring up both the shine most of the
warmth because again we can either use a ceramic coating like HydroSlick or we
can move on something traditional like a glaze sealant wax combination you guys
stay tuned
all righty guys so that's pretty much gonna wrap it up for today we still got
a lot of polishing to do because this car is a boat so we need to move our way
around the rest of the vehicle before we go onto our coating process but to really
protect this finish because again this is not original paint but it's very old
paint and since we want to keep in that survivor condition we're gonna go with
HydroSlick which is a super easy to apply ceramic gel and it's going to lock in
the shine but it's going to repel those harmful UV rays that really deteriorate
the finish so it's gonna prevent any kind of oxidation that's also going to
hand some of that water beading actions so it's gonna keep the car looking
cleaner for longer it makes the drying process a lot easier as well as the wash
process so HydroSlick is a great product for any kind of car doesn't matter
if it's a new car old car red white blue whatever you have it's just really gonna
bring out the shine of any color vehicle so if you guys want to know more about these
products head over to our website chemicalguys.com or your local detail
garage if you liked today's video you like the Thunder Bird or if you like old
classic cars be sure to give it a thumbs up drop your comments down below anything
else you guys want to see or maybe your favorite old car we'll see you guys next
time
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