Today we’re going to show you how to tile a shower floor.
This is Part 1 of Part 2.
We’re specifically going to go over how to do the tile layout in today’s video and
why that is so important before you set the tile.
So these quick tips are going to make your project a lot easier and faster.
Tiling a shower floor begins with simply laying out or dry fitting sheets of tile, again,
in this case 2x2 ceramic or porcelain tiles, on the shower pan.
So we cut that third sheet to size, and then we worked our way from the plumbing wall toward
the drain.
And it became apparent that we might be able to cut out those four tiles and center that
tile sheet on the drain.
As you can see here, we didn’t have a sliver at the side wall and the plumbing wall, and
we’re actually left with more than a half piece of tile on the plumbing wall which is
great.
You definitely don’t want to be left with a sliver of tile along the perimeter of your
shower.
So again we just had to cut down a quarter inch off of that last tile on the main wall,
and then we could cut down a full row along the curb.
So that worked out well, and we continued the dry layout, these sheets of 2x2, toward
the shower bench.
So again we’re left with a little bit of a large grout joint on the drain, but aesthetically,
it doesn’t look too bad.
And so we continued to do the dry layout for the rest of the shower.
Again we lucked out against the curb there and had a bit more room to have a full row
of tile.
And then along the back wall, we are going to cover that gap between the tile and the
back wall with the wall tile.
Now we used the CGX115 diamond blade and an angle grinder.
We cut the tile using those over top a scrap piece of Wedi.
And again, we were left with about an eighth to a quarter inch gap between that last row
of tile and the Wedi backer board along the perimeter; that’s what you want.
You can also use a tile cutter to cut these tiles down to size.
We used the Ishii Big Clinker in this case.
You can also use the Masterpiuma by Montolit.
These are great tools that make wonderful cuts with these 2x2 inch ceramic or porcelain
tiles.
So again you just want to have a gap between the curb and the tile.
In this case, our curb is bellowing out a little bit, so we used the CGX115 diamond
blade to cut that down to size.
We’ll put the links to all the tools and materials that we used in this video down
in the description, by the way, to help you out with that.
You also want a silica dust respirator whenever you’re cutting these tiles to size; it helps
out a lot, especially if you’re not using a sponge to wet down the tile.
So again, our wall tile will cover that gap there along the plumbing wall, along the perimeter
of the shower.
If your tiles are too tight to the wall, you’ll have to cut them to size because you need
an expansion joint of eighth inch or one quarter inch along that perimeter.
So again, just using the angle grinder to do that really helps out if you don’t want
to use a wet tile saw.
So again, for tile cuts that were a half tile or more, we used the Ishii Big Clinker, leaving
that eighth inch to one quarter inch gap between the last row of tile in the shower bench.
Again, using the angle grinder with the CGX115 diamond blade helps out a lot whenever you
have a little bit of an awkward cut.
So that last row of tile, make sure that you get it to fit to size.
It is like a big puzzle piece, and you want to make sure that all your grout joints look
nice and even before you move on with your dry layout.
Now in the next video, we are going to give you a lot of tips on how to set these tiles
on thinset mortar, what tools do you use to make that easier as well.
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All right.
We’ll see you in the next video.
Take care.