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Small tables make great skill building projects
because in a very small footprint
you could pack in a lot of different techniques
and things to practice and learn.
For instance with these tables
we've got tapered and curved legs.
Those legs join the post with a sliding dovetail
and the post itself is turned at the lathe.
We have a lot of turning details to include here
and of course the top is elliptical in shape
so we have to be able to cut an ellipse
which is kind of cool.
On this side over here
I've even got a tilting version of the table
that tilts up and down.
Now it's not necessarily a feature
that anybody of us really need these days
but should you want to include it
it's classic design feature,
it's kind of cool,
it's fun to make.
All right.
That's what we're gonna show you today.
How to make a tilt-top table
and well, a more traditional one that doesn't tilt.
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With the rough stock on the bench
I use chalk to lay out the parts
while trying to avoid major flaws.
The post is made from 12 quarter stock
and the rest of the parts come from four quarter stock.
The 12 quarter blank is jointed on two phases
before being cut to size at the bandsaw.
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I then cut the blank to length at the miter saw.
The four quarter stock is broken down next
leaving everything over sized for now.
I use the miter saw to cut the parts to rough length
and the bandsaw to cut them to rough width.
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Here is all of the rough stock
for two tables ready to go.
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The post blank is turned into a cylinder
at the lathe.
I'm using easy wood tools
for the first time on this project
and if you've never used them
they are incredibly user-friendly.
I'm starting with the modern post first
beginning with the bead detail.
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I then move on to the gentle curve.
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The top of the post receives a nice thick tenon.
The classic post is made the same way
but features a lot more detail.
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The post will receive three dovetail slots
for the legs to lock into.
The shopmade jig allows the post to rotate
while locking it into three specific positions
using this clever triangle
and wedge system that we came up with.
After a straight bit makes the flat shoulder
for each dovetail slot,
another straight bit is used
to hog out the bulk of the stock.
Finally, a dovetail bit is used
to make the final slot.
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Each table requires a different style leg
but their construction is very similar.
It starts by making a template.
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I trace the shape of the leg unto my blank
and cut the sliding dovetail side
to the appropriate angle.
I can then cut the dovetails at the router table
taking a pass on each side.
The fit should be snug and with no gaps.
The curve is then cut at the bandsaw
and finessed with a spokeshave,
a rasp
and a chisel.
I find it much easier to work on all three legs at once.
Each leg receives a nice round over
on the outside edge.
The legs now receive a taper from top to bottom
using these two shopmade sleds.
A few passes through the drum sander or planer
will get the job done.
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The pivot block is a simple square block
with a hole in the middle for the post tenon
and two holes on each side for dowels.
We now need two cleats
that will attach the tabletop to the pivot block.
The cleats also receive holes for dowels.
The assembly should look something like this
when it's done.
The cleats receive some decorative curves
to dress them up a bit.
If you don't like the tilt-top concept
you can always make a simple decorative support block
like the one that I made for the walnut table.
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The table tops are constructed of multiple boards.
This cherry set turns a little sapwood
into a nice feature.
The table top is a 17-inch by 15-inch ellipse.
We need to make a template.
To draw the ellipse,
I start by drawing two center lines
on my plywood template stock.
I then measure out in each dimension
and mark a line to represent the outer most points
of the ellipse.
The distance from the center
to the edge of the long dimension is 8 1/2 inches
and I measure from the outer point
of the short dimension 8 1/2 inches
and find where that intersects with the center line,
and then I strike a line at that point.
I repeat that process on the other side.
Now I drive two nails
into the outermost points of the long axis.
I then tie a sting nice and taut
between the two nails.
Now I remove those nails
and drive them into the other two lines
that we made in the previous step.
Using a pencil with a string behind it
I rotated around and create the ellipse.
Now why does this work?
I have no idea but it actually does.
I then cut the template out
and we're back to my line with the rasp
and a flexible sanding strip.
The top blank is then cut to shape over sized
and flush trimmed using the template
at the router table.
A round over is added to soften the look
of the table's edge.
All parts are now sanded thoroughly
giving the piece its finished look.
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The legs are glued in first.
Then the dowels are glued into the pivot block.
For the sake of easy finishing
we won't glue the pivot block to the post just yet.
Now I'm using Danish Oil for the finish.
I simply brush on a liberal amount of finish
and let it soak in
and then wipe off the excess with a clean rag.
With the top, you can see how the wood
really soaks in that first coat.
The second and third coats go on
exactly the same way
with about 12 hours of dry time in between.
For the fourth coat,
I'm gonna make a custom mix of Danish Oil
with about 50% poly added
for some additional durability.
The finish is applied using a 2000 grit
abrasive foam sanding pad
or you could just use some automotive sanding paper.
The abrasive applies the finish
and smooths the surface at the same time.
Just as before, the excess is removed with a clean rag.
With our parts finished
we can now attach the pivot block to the post.
The cleats are then screwed to the underside of the top.
So far so good.
Nothing fell apart.
Nothing exploded.
All right, let's check that tilt.
Now if you do decide to build
the tilting version,
the one thing I did not show in this series
is how to install a latch
that's gonna hold it close
because if you put something really heavy on the edge
it could certainly fall, all right?
There is a classic piece of hardware
that's perfect for this.
It's very easy to install
and I just haven't had a chance to do it
but it works very well, all right?
This series is actually a Wood Whisperer Guild build.
This is just the compressed version of it
that I wanted to show you here today.
If you want to see the full build
get the plans for this project
and it's hours of content and a lot of detail.
If you're interested in that type of thing
just go to the woodwhispererguild.com
and you can get access to this project today.
All right.
Thanks for watching.
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