Hey Folks, Alan Mandic, MandicReally here and this is a 3D Printing Workshop Vlog.
If you're not familiar, which this is only the second one of these
I've done so it's quite possible you're not,
we're going to work on some smaller projects
that don't necessarily warrant their own dedicated video
on various printers around the studio.
In this one we're going to work on my Voron
2.4, Project ReAniMaker is probably going to be the bulk of it,
and first we're going to start with the FLSun V400.
I unboxed this beast on stream last week and overall it went really smoothly.
The only hiccup we ran into was if you look at the height
map data of the bed surface, it tells you that that thing is just warped up,
when it really isn't.
My first layer laid down well, laying straight edge across the bed,
It looks fine.
So somebody who watched
the VOD of the stream recommended I do a delta calibration on this machine.
So we're going to do that.
This is really straightforward
because it's already in the menu system on KlipperScreen, on the Speeder Pad.
I go to configuration, bed level, calibration.
Then it asks me to connect the Z switch
and then it magnetically attach it to the effector, aka tool head.
I hit continue and the machine probes seven points around the bed
to calibrate the towers of the delta so it knows where it's at.
And now we can rerun a new mesh bed level, and look at that!
When you actually calibrate something and then run the mesh again,
it actually has a decent height map.
Probably showed
around the delta calibration before I ran the mesh bed level in the live stream.
But I didn't know that at the time.
As part of that review
obviously I need to run the machine more so I can test it out.
I want to try doing a time lapse right now though.
I want to try and do one with this,
my Panasonic LUMIX GH6, that is my primary camera.
So let's hook it up.
To do that, I'm going to use this nothing special
USB HDMI capture card of the Amazon that cost me like 15 bucks.
Just plug it into a USB port on the Speeder Pad
and I'll hook the HDMI cable in the other end to the camera.
I'm trying out a new camera and audio setup for on the go vlogging type stuff,
so please excuse if it looks or sounds a little off compared to other footage
because the GH6 is now set up on the slider.
I have to be extra when I'm filming a time lapse.
Of course.
And just like
that, the “Thing” print by JS Studio is done.
Took just under 2 hours to print and overall pretty good results.
So not bad for the first thing that I printed
that wasn't a vase on the FLSun V400.
As far as the time lapse setup is concerned, this little cheapie capture
card can only do 1080p and the GH6 is outputting a 5.8k “Open
Gate” 4:3 aspect ratio video, downscaling it to 1080
so this can accept it, and then for this video I had to then re-upscale it to 4K.
It really did not look good for a video like this.
It turned out okay for the time lapse on Instagram and TikTok,
but here not so much.
I'm tempted to try something like an Elgato CamLink 4k
and see if it'll work with the Speeder Pad and Mainsail.
I don't know.
I kind of expect it won't, but might be worth a shot.
Hold up there
Alan, before you finished this video you actually did pick up a CamLink
4k to try out.
I tested it out on the Speeder Pad.
I was able to get an image if I downsampled to 1080p
on my GH6 but not 4k.
This is 4k capable and it works going into my computer
but not into the Speeder Pad.
So I tried it on my Voron 2.4 going into the Raspberry Pi 4
that machine is running and once again, I wasn't able to get an image out of it.
It seems like maybe Mainsail just can't pick up the 4K image off of this.
don't believe it's putting out a MJPEG stream off of this
CamLink 4k, so that's probably part of the issue.
I'm going to have to look into actually triggering the time
lapse shutter functionality on my camera, which is going to lead to better quality
time lapses anyway.
With all that done
we're done with the FLSun V400, time to move on to the Voron 2.4.
Side note electric standing desk for a workbench .
a little wobbly, but otherwise I adore it.
It's easy to work at, I can stand, I can sit, I can move it up
and down for taking product shots or things like this.
My Voron 2.4 is up and running.
I've done a total of one and a 1/4 prints with it so far.
I don't think I want to put the panels on it quite yet.
I might end up converting this
to CANBUS away from the full harness setup and cable chains.
So I want to have the room to work in here if I go to do that.
But I do want to button up the skirts and the wiring underneath.
First thing I want to deal with
is they're supposed to be 2 60mm cooling fans blowing across the electronics box.
I only have one currently
because I robbed the second one for Project ReAniMaker some months ago.
I picked up a replacement one so let's get this thing in here.
I'm using Noctua A6x25 fans because I don't like loud fan noise
and they're going to do the job just fine for here.
For installation on the Voron we need to put some heat press inserts
into the body of the fan so we can then screw it into the side skirt.
I'm fairly sure these Noctua fans are probably glass filled nylon
construction for the frame
because I can just kind of like
feel a crunchiness as I'm inserting the heat press insert into them,
and it definitely takes a fair amount of heat to do it.
this particular application, I'm going to use the existing harness
already attached to here and keep as much of the wire as I can.
It's already got the sleeving on here, so if I can maintain that, I will.
In this particular application
with this three wire Noctua fan, I don't need the yellow wire.
That is my tacg signal. So away that goes.
Once the wires are stripped,
I can crimp on the terminals that they need and then slide
on a heatshrink piece and seal that up to give it a nice clean finish.
Followed by connecting the JST-XH 2 pin connector I need.
A very important side note real quick for you folks.
My helper is, is being SO helpful right now!
snoozle
huh? What?
Father, Leave me alone...
Installation of this fan is very straightforward.
It just slips into the skirt area.
There's a grill that goes on here with a couple of recesses to match the skirt.
I just need to sneak the wire into place and plug it into a fan port.
The Voron diagram has you spliced the two fans together.
As I'm using an Octopus Pro board with plenty of fan connectors
I don't need to do that.
Also with this board, I can use 5, 12 or 24 volt fans.
I just need to set the jumper appropriately.
In the middle will give me 12 volt for this Noctua fan.
I just went to move to the next step of putting this next side
skirt on and I realized why I haven't done it previously.
It's because when I got to that point I realized I didn't have the parts
printed already, so I need to print two more parts for this skirt.
Luckily, I do have a Voron to print the parts with.
As I haven't really tuned this machine yet.
I need to do at least some basic tuning before I go printing these parts.
I'm starting with the flow rate test and I'm actually using
the SoftFever fork of Bambu Studio for this, and their test.
Print a handful of these chips and look what I want has the best result.
This negative 5 looked okay but the base layer was pretty thin
but negative 4 looks as good as the negative 5 on top,
But the base layer is well filled in.
So I'm going with that.
That's going to be a 96% (.96) multiplier for extrusion with this PolyMaker ASA.
Next up is Pressure Advance tuning.
I tried the SoftFever calibration for that as well, but I wasn't happy with it.
So I moved to the default Klipper tuning tower and the default model.
Measure the height where it looks the best for me and that's going
to give me the Pressure Advance value for this particular filament.
With the filament calibration dialed in, I can throw the “enclosure”
on top of the machine and get to printing these parts.
It's kind of rad to see the LEDs lighting up the print area as this thing
gets printing inside of its little sound blanket moving blanket enclosure.
I have to say my initial impressions of printing of my V 2.4 are really positive.
I need to tune more.
It's got some issues like adhesion issues on this print in particular
with a slight, minor layer shift because of that adhesion
issue curling up the part, but honestly, that's because I'm printing ASA
without an enclosure and didn't bake a chamber to print this.
With the skirt parts printed I'm ready to install them on the machine.
Line them up where they need to be, insert the screws, and tighten them down.
Then there's a couple of blank fan grill pieces
that go in place on the left side of the machine.
Since there are no fans installed on this side, I could put them there
if I really wanted to, but I don't feel a need to.
At the moment at least.
And now it's time to move on to Project Re-AniMaker.
If you haven't seen the Build overview video for this MakerBot Replicator,
I converted to Core-XY, there's a link up here.
I highlighted some of the issues
I had with this machine in that video, and we're going to address them now.
We're going to start by replacing the A and B motors,
which currently are the original MakerBot Motors.
They were running really hot so I had to dial down the amperage on them
just to keep them from melting the mounts that they're attached to.
And so we're going to some .9 degree LDO motors.
Also I’m replacing the pancake stepper for the extruder with an LDO one
because the Fysetc one was skipping steps when I was really trying to push it.
I wanted to start with the motors, but I need to get the belts off.
So I need to get the carriage disassembled
because that's where the clamp for the belts is.
Luckily, I designed this carriage assembly so the entire tool head, actual
extruder, hot
end, fans, can all be removed with just 3 screws and it's out of my way
so that I can get to the belt clamp to get the belts off.
This is the new carriage piece that I'm going to be installing in here.
It has tighter tolerances than the old one.
See the previous video to see the tolerance issues I ran into.
Now I just need to install the handful of heat press inserts
that are required for this design.
So the carriage and tool head can be screwed together.
Then clip on to the three linear bearings that I'm using for this particular
configuration, and it is so much tighter than the previous tolerances were.
It is way better.
Now with the belts out of the way,
I can actually get the old motors off and out of the machine.
I'm going to reuse these pulleys on the new LDO motors
and they have to come off of the old motors.
Here's a quick pro tip for you.
When you are working with connectors you're going to be disassembling,
I want to sleeve these wires, so I took some pictures of the connectors
and the wire orientation before disassembly.
So I can easily reassemble them in the correct order without having to guess.
I use braided PET sleeving to sleeve the wires
on the new LDO motors and begin cable management.
Which it is going to be fun to redo pretty much everything on this machine.
With the AB motor swap is time to deal with the extruder motor.
This is again fairly straightforward.
I have a cable management piece
on the backside of the extruder that I just need to remove so I can get
the motor off of the Micro-Sherpa extruder that I'm running.
The new video motor, of course, fits directly back in place because well
this is a NEMA14, it's not that big a deal.
While I have the tool head out, let's take a look at something
I didn't show in the previous video.
The actual part cooling fan duct is mounted directly
to a couple of threaded holes in the side of the Drop Effect XG hot end,
that are probably intended for mounting the hot end to something,
but I used them to mount my part cooling duct.
I also made this air scoop duct that takes the air from the heat
sink itself, that blows across it and ducted it up and away from the print
area and across the extruder motor to help cool it off a little bit.
Will it actually cool?
I don't know.
It is going to be warm air, but at least it's
not blowing down around the print area.
Now, I can do some cable management on the tool head.
I'm gonna it back to its carriage assembly and move it to the furthest point away
from its strain relief, cable management at the back of the machine.
That way I know exactly how long my wires need to be at the most extreme point.
I used heat shrink to cable manage this instead of zip ties so in
it was a more strain relieving design and I used extra long pieces of heat
shrink at each end of the cable management to again create strain relief.
Now the fun, straightening out
all the wires in the electronics box underneath this thing.
I had to go back and redo a bunch of stuff that I rushed through getting this thing
ready to take to ERRF 2022, so I can actually clean things up
a little bit nicer this time.
I ended up extending the wires on the LDO extruder motor.
This is something I run into with pretty much every manufacturer of 3D
printer parts.
Even on this machine, which is relatively small overall,
I just didn't have enough wire length.
I needed like six more inches, so I had to extend those wires
and then I was able to refer back to that picture
I took earlier to know exactly how to pin them into the connector
and not be tripped up and have to look it up online or whatever.
This is what I ended up with for cable management.
It’s not the prettiest thing I've ever done by any means,
but I know where everything is, it’s fairly color coded,
so I can identify the wires as I need and address them later on if need be.
Now we can actually deal with the belt and motor pulleys.
This belt here I'm tossing.
That was a cheap Amazon one that I just had to use to get this thing together.
It's mostly rubber and not a Gates belt and it's terrible.
As far as setting
pulley height is concerned, I didn't design any tools or anything.
I'm pretty much just
eyeballing it off of the idler pulleys that are at a fixed height,
and I'll adjust this once I get the belts in place.
Seeing how the belts want to ride.
Belt routing on this machine is as annoying
and confusing as any other Core-XY, but once you get a few of those
under your belt, this is pretty straightforward...
to route the... belt.
No pun intended.
I've got the carriage assembly all the way to the front of the box.
That way I can use that to help me square things up.
I'm going to pull as much slack out of the belt as I can now.
I have the tensioners for the motors all the way loosened
so that I can use them to adjust later.
With the slack taken up, I install the belt clamp so I can check things.
Next, I'll move the carriage around through its motion.
That way
the belts can run through the pulleys around the motors and free up anywhere.
They might have been like a tooth off or something like that.
After doing that, I do feel I have a little more slack than I care for,
so I'll use a pair of needle nose pliers holding the belts in place
lightly, just ever so lightly loosen up the belt, clamp,
and then twist the needlenose pliers while still holding on to the belt.
And it'll act as kind of a pulley system to pull the teeth through their catches
on the belt clamp and then tighten up the system a little more.
For now, I'm going to leave just a little extra length on the back of these belts
where they're sticking out in thin air.
So I have plenty left to grab on to if I feel that I need to make any further
adjustments, I'll do a few prints, let the belts break in a little bit
and see where I'm at.
I also have plenty of adjustment left
on the tensioners that I built into the system.
Which are just the motor
mount plates being able to be slid back to pull more tension on the belts.
And then I can finally, one last time install the tool head onto the carriage.
At this point I am so very happy
that I designed this system to only have 3 bolts to remove that tool head
and be able to work with this carriage and access those belts and the belt clamp.
It makes servicing this whole set up so much easier.
Now I'm ready to power this thing on and I can dive in the Klipper
and make the few reconfigurations that I need to.
Such as increasing my motor amperage from that pathetic .5 amps that I was at
to the new 1.1A RMS for these LDO motors
and resetting my rotation distance for the .9 degree motors.
With those config changes out of the way, it's time to start printing some stuff.
I haven't printed much PLA with this machine yet, so I started off
doing a little bit of flow rate calibration and Pressure Advance tuning.
And quite honestly, that's about all
I did with this thing before I decided to see how fast I can print a Benchy!
I sliced ths Benchy in the SoftFever fork of Bambu Studio,
where I created a profile for this machine based off of Voron V0.
Which is what I did in PrusSlicer as well for this.
And this beautiful black boat printed in just 22 minutes and 55 seconds.
There's definitely some ghosting artifacts
and a little bit of cooling issue on the bow.
Only having a single 5015 part cooling fan is not helping me
a lot here, but honestly, it turned out better than I expected.
Soon I'm going to design an ADXL mount for this so I can tune
Input Shaper on this machine to try and improve quality.
But right now I just want to see can I push the speed a little higher?
Can I print an under 20 minute Benchy on a wooden box printer?
So I jumped in the slicer and did some tuning
and tweaking to try and speed things up.
I increased acceleration,
I changed infill, I changed top layer and bottom layer fill types.
all saved me a little bit of time here, a little bit of time there.
Then I set to printing and...
had a decent layer shift halfway through.
But this was a 17 minute flat Benchy.
It just wasn't a success.
So I dove into my config and made a few changes, and printed a 16
minute and 33 second .21 Benchy.
It's by no means a pretty Benchy,
but it does conform to the rules of the Speed Boat challenge.
It uses a 0.25 millimeter layer height, 10% infill
.45 millimeter extrusion width and is printed in PLA.
And if you're curious about how I didn't
get a layer shift on this one while actually going faster
than the previous one, I bumped up my motor current to 1.25 amps.
I wouldn't want to run that on a daily basis,
but actually they weren't that hot to the touch,
but that's what I ran just for this quick test.
And I turned off StealthChop.
I went back to Spread Cycle
and I think that's probably the bigger thing
that kept my motors from skipping steps.
With the fun of a couple of fast prints out of the way.
It's time to start tuning that thing in for quality, but that's for another day.
I am seeing with that new configuration that I think that machine
is going to end up being a good quality printer in the end.
And I only really built it for the heck of it.
One last note on Re-AniMaker,
the design files were not previously released for that.
as I said I would.
I wanted to confirm a few adjustments that I made to them in the real world
before I released files.
I have now confirmed those and you can find a link in the description
down below to all the design files for that machine
so you can make one of these for yourself or just download my designs!
They're free to you and it does help support the channel.
So maybe you can open these up in your CAD of choice
and learn from the way that I design things.
Now I've got to get back to the studio revamp for 2023.
I've got more work to get done around here and I actually put a bunch more
on my plate at this point.
I hope you found this video interesting Folks.
If you did drop it a LIKE, it really helps out!
Let me know in the COMMENTS,
What do you think about these Workshop Vlogs?
You want to see more of these little projects that I have to get done anyway?
Let me know in the Comments down below.
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