Hey guys, Welcome to part 4 of my Easy, Step by Step
guide to 3D Resin Printing.
Today we’re going to ask that most challenging of questions – which printer should you
buy?
Every day it seems I get emails and messages from people asking me this very question and
despite what follows I’ve no doubt that will continue.
So to buy myself a few weeks of peace and quiet at least, as of right now, August 2022,
here’s my personal printer recommendations.
In the standard range, especially for newcomers or folks updating and older spec printer,
I really don’t think you can beat the new Mars 3 Pro, though its predecessor the Mars
Ultra 4K is a very close second.
But, if you don’t mind a slightly smaller printer volume, I still think the Anycubic
Mono 4K is a match for the 3 Pro, and much cheaper to boot.
Still at the standard range, but for those seeking really fine detail, like jewellers,
engineers or serious modelling enthusiasts, for me there’s still nothing that can touch
the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K which is my go-to machine for ultra fine print quality.
When it comes to mid-range, I’d again go with Elegoo and their Saturn 2.
It’s fine detail quality exceeds that of the Mars 3 Pro but has a bigger plate for
larger and taller prints.
It’s a great all-rounder but lacks the wifi or ethernet connectivity that you’ll find
on similar spec brands for a little extra spend.
Finally, we have the large range, and despite good efforts by Anycubic and Elegoo, my preference
still lies with the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K which is a beast of a machine, beating all
others in terms of size and print quality.
Anyone holding out for a low-budget DLP printer should keep an eye on my channel in the next
few weeks.
I’ll be revealing Anycubic’s second generation DLP.
And don’t worry if you can’t remember all that.
I’ve put a list in the description that includes my video reviews and direct links
to the appropriate products.
Of course the above stated is just my personal preferences.
Ideally you should do your own research based on your own knowledge, and that is what the
rest of this video is about.
It’s very difficult for me to guide people that I don’t know with their choice of printers
because I have no basis to judge their actual needs.
And it’s this knowledge of these needs that truly makes the decision.
Let’s look at a few factors.
There’s pretty much three sizes of printer, the standard base range, the mid-range and
the larger printers.
What sort of things do you need to print?
If you’re only printing 32mm miniatures, why buy a Phrozen Mega 8K?
It will dwarf your needs.
Similarly, if you print tournament trophies, you’d probably need to think bigger than
a Mars 3 Pro.
Mid-range is a safe option as it’s something of a compromise, but it will increase your
spend.
So think carefully before you buy – what do you really want to print.
Volume is the next consideration.
Are you printing for you alone, for a group or maybe running a small business?
How many prints are you likely to need at any one time?
For a hobbyist, one or two prints per week may be enough.
But small businesses or club members may need a higher volume of prints.
You may well print 32mm minis, but a bigger plate would allow you to print in a much higher
volume.
But again, think carefully.
It may be that 2 or 3 mid-range printers may meet your needs better than a large-range
printer like the Phrozen Mega 8K.
Features are great, but are they really needed?
Wifi and ethernet connectivity.
Remote access cameras.
Automatic resin filling.
I have printers with all these features, but as I’m not a high-volume printing guy, I
never use any of them.
These features may sound great, but be sure that it’s something you really need before
you buy.
Hopefully you’ve watched my previous videos and have a fuller understanding what K resolution,
Pixels Per Inch and XY resolution really mean.
In many ways, very fine quality printing is similar to Features.
Is it really something you need?
The Mars 3 Pro prints great at 35 microns, but the Phrozen Mini 8K prints finer at 22
microns.
So it’s better, right?
Well yes…
I believe so.
But it’s a bit like owning a Ferrari when all you need is a bicycle.
This is a difficult concept to get across so let me speak as plainly as I can.
In the hand or on the table, a print made at 35 microns looks just as good as a print
made at 22 microns.
Even when you examine them an inch from your nose, you may be hard pressed to tell the
difference.
It’s only when these prints are massively magnified that you really see the benefit.
In some fields, like jewellery or engineering, this extra fine detail may make all the difference.
But for the average guy, maybe it isn’t as important.
It’s a choice you need to make for yourself.
Most of us are ultimately governed by our budget.
Hopefully you’ll have learned enough from the previous videos to now understand the
workings and terminology associated with 3D resin printers.
Through this you can make side by side comparisons with all available 3D printers, not just the
ones I or other YouTubers may review.
From there you can make an informed decision and determine if the size, volume, features
and printing quality most match your needs and fit within your budget.
At the end of the day, you’re really the only one that can do this and hopefully you’re
now in a position to do just that.
So that’s it for this video guys.
I hope you found it useful.
Next time we’ll probably take a look at understanding printer settings.
But until then, take care and happy printing.