Menswear Fiber Types & Weaves - Men's Clothing Fabrics - Satin Basket Twill Weaves - Silk
- Wool
Hi.
I’m Antonio Centeno, the founder of Real Men Real Style.
Today, I’m going to be talking about “Understanding fiber types and weaves?”
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And finally, I’m going to link you to an article in which I talk more about fabric
types and weaves and getting to a lot more detail with this because this video is going
to be really short and it is the response to a question I received.
And it’s “Hi Antonio.
I have a quick question for you.
I bought some Peter Miller neckties and they’re 100% silk but they look and feel like a flan
of wool.
It has a slightly felted surface.
I emailed Peter Miller and even the customer service didn’t have an answer as to why
it was so.
They want me to take pictures and send it to them.
I thought you may know how they manufacture this and why it doesn’t feel like a normal
silk.”
Okay, this is a great question and what it comes down to is that most of the times we’ve
got an impression of what a fabric should feel like.
If I say cotton, if something comes to your mind and you’ve got an idea of what cotton
should be like.
If I said wool, something comes to your mind and you have an idea of what wool should be
like and the same for silk neckties.
If I say silk neckties, for 99.9% of people, it’s a very smooth – close your eyes and
think of it.
It’s very smooth, lustrous, like this necktie right here, very nice, but the gentleman who
wrote me, what he has is it is a silk necktie but it’s actually been woven, non traditionally
so normally we’ll see what’s called a satin weave and that’s a reflective weave.
It’s one that’s very tight and that’s what we see where in that’s most of the
time 99.9% of the time what silk is woven into.
But he has here is a complex three dimensional weave which is actually using a nap surface
and so this is a weave in which they may have had only used the basket or a twill weave
but have to actually look at – probably a basket weave.
And they’ve mixed it with another three dimensional weave.
If you can imagine, basically they finish and they’ve refined the fabric so that it’s
got a little bit of silk hairs that come out and that gives it a very nap feel.
So in the same way that this is wool, this jacket is wool yet it’s a tweed and it’s
got a very soft.
You almost want to go to sleep in something like this but it’s the same wool, it’s
made from the same fabric as a worsted wool suit which has a very slick.
It’s not going to have this nap surface which is that hair.
It’s a very straight surface on there.
So hopefully that makes big sense.
Again, go to the link down below.
I’ll try to explain this more in an article but it comes down to our expectations that
all silk has to be a certain way and all wool has to be a certain way and all cotton has
to be a certain way and a great example is synthetic fibers.
So think about fleece and then think about something you’re active wear.
Fleece is very soft.
It keeps you very warm.
It’s very thick versus some of that active where it’s very thing.
It pulls sweat right from your body.
Other times you’ve probably had something made from polyester which is really, really
bad quality.
Other times you got something made from a more modern polyester or rayon or one of these
other fabrics, other combinations and actually feels very nice and it’s something that
you love to wear.
So understanding that what the fabric is is only one part of the story.
You’ve also got to understand the weave and there were a number of other components
but to answer this gentleman’s question, it is probably 100% silk and what it comes
down to is it’s been woven in a complex pattern that gives it that nap surface is
what you’re feeling.
Okay, hopefully that cleared up.
Again, go to the article.
I’ll try to give you teaching more about synthetic fibers, about cotton, about wool
and we’ll also talk a little bit about weaves.
This has been Antonio Centeno with Real Men Real Style.
Take care and I’ll see you in the next video.
Bye-bye.