﻿The Role of Genetics in Skin Aesthetics The qualities that define an aesthetically
pleasant skin are universal, and are similar to the qualities of healthy skin. Healthy skin is
defined as one that has no or few imperfections, is not too dry or too oily, has minimally visible
pores, and an overall radiant complexion. Many try their best to achieve a healthy
skin using expensive skin care products. This has caused the industry for skin care
products to become a multi-billion dollar thriving business, with endless choices
for every skin care product ranging from face washes to skin serums. But to the dismay of many,
buying the most expensive products for your skin, and using them regularly and religiously
often does not give the desired results. This is because there are other important factors at play
that are responsible for healthy skin such as your genetics and lifestyle choices.
There is a specific group of people who have the most healthy and almost perfect skin, and it is
newborns and children who fall under this group. The reason behind their vibrant flawless skin is
because their skin has not yet been subjected to years of sun damage, hormonal acne, harmful
chemicals, mechanical trauma, and environmental toxins. As people grow older, their skin changes
in appearance, developing wrinkles, sun spots, and losing collagen. But not all people and
their skin respond equally to the same adverse agents. What could be the reason for this?
It is well known that genes determine the skin color, skin thickness, and skin type.
But genes have a bigger role than this. A study on same-sex twins dertermined that genetics influence
up to 62% of the variation in skin aging, while the rest 40% are attributed to other non-genetic
factors. The most important non-genetic factors negatively influencing skin aging are sun
exposure and smoking. Researchers have directly documented the effects of both smoking and sun
exposure on skin morphology and deterioration with age. Sex and ethnicity both provide some
obvious evidence of genetic influence on skin. Asian skin tends to wrinkle at an older age,
by almost 10 years in comparison to Caucasian skin, as per a study by Makrantonaki et al.
But, the most obvious difference attributable to genetic variability is the patterns of skin
pigmentation, which can vary based on a person’s ethnicity. African-Americans have high levels of
skin pigmentation, which has a protective effect from skin damage as a result of sun exposure.
Robinson et al discovered that sun-exposed areas and unexposed areas of skin showed
minimal difference in skin structure and aging related changes in African-Americans.
This finding was in stark contrast with the response of Caucasian skin to sun exposure.
Caucasians showed significant differences in skin elasticity, and sun induced damage when comparing
sun-exposed sites to unexposed sites. North European skin tones of Caucasian skin falls under
skin type I as per the Fitzpatrick classification, that is to say when exposed to sunlight,
the skin burns, and does not tan. Therefore, they are more prone to not just sun damage,
but also skin cancers as they lack the protective benefits of melanin against UV rays.
The presence or absence of chromosome Y is what determines gender. Apart from sexual
characteristics, this genetic difference also has a direct influence on skin response to
oxidative stress from sun exposure.Oblong et al discovered that the male skin is far more prone
to damage from UV induced skin damage and other environmental insults.Massudi et al also found
differences in DNA damage, oxidative potential and overall skin damage between males and females,
with males responding more adversely to environmental stressors than females.
Researchers are now shifting their focus on the correlation between gene mutations
and common skin disorders such as skin atrophy, alopecia, telangiectasia, sclerosis,
and skin malignancies. A study found that changes in gene expression and mutation was similar in
patients with Werner syndrome and normal skin aging. This corresponds with the assumption
that variations and mutations in genes determine skin aging and response to oxidative stress.
Furthermore, mutations in genes that regulate growth hormone and pituitary hormones can increase
the likelihood of early skin aging such as wrinkle formation and skin dehydration. Naval et al
identified 13 Single nucleotide polymorphisms in genes that code for proteins important in
determining skin’s response to oxidative stress, and changes with aging in skin elasticity and
skin hydration. As per their findings, the cluster 8 of gene variants showed increased
susceptibility to oxidative stress owing to weak versions of antioxidant genes. On the other hand,
cluster 10 demonstrated good genetic activity against oxidative stress to skin. The study
findings implicate that those belonging to cluster 8 require more concentrations of antioxidants in
their cosmetic products as compared to cluster 10. This suggestion by the researchers was aimed
not just to enhance protection for cluster 8 but also to limit the damage that excess
antioxidants may have on cluster 10. Genomic analysis can be a useful tool
to characterize human skin, and needs for anti-aging products. This could allow skin care
to be individualized based on a person’s genes. As genotypic services become more affordable
and easily available, analyzing genes to develop individualized skin care plans
could be a viable option in the future. Genetic variations are responsible for the
unique characteristics of each individual, and may be an important determining factor in the
future for all clinical and pharmacologic interventions. This idea is consistent
with the concept of providing treatment to the person instead of to the particular condition,
which is currently gaining recognition as a much more effective way to approach patients.
By understanding the morphology and underlying biology of individual skin,
and identifying the genes representative of skin’s aging process, designing novel strategies to
modulate skin aging can be an effective and more appropriate approach to perfecting skin care.