I couldn't be any more excited today we've gotten our last box of our new
collection of Kirby Allison's sovereign grade ties as many of you know I've been
working on this project for almost three years travelling to London traveling to
Paris in search of the perfect tie and I'm so excited I think we finally got
there you know after three years it was a journey of finding the right maker the
right silks the right interlining deciding on our construction methods and
then of course picking our patterns and the various styles and here we are we've
got our new Kirby Allison collection of sovereign grade ties and they couldn't
be any better so we've got an entire collection here and really not just ties
I mean we've got our cumber buns our new self-type bow ties which are gonna be
fully back in stock right here we've got some new pocket squares and then under
this what do we have ah my favorite ancient matter ties as you know that
ancient matter is a very old method of dyeing that produces a really special
kind of chalky hand left--it eyes if you don't own some ancient matter this is
actually my single favorite ancient matter colorway and tie and we're
thrilled to have this back in stock all of our new ties we have something called
a permanent collection this is our perennials that are always going to be
in stock on those which include you know some ancient matter some Macclesfield
some Spitalfields Grenadines all these ties are gonna be available in two
different lengths right so we're gonna have a standard 150 centimeter length
but for our customers and viewers that are taller gentlemen that need a longer
tie we're gonna be offering a 160 cm link that's gonna be perfect for them so
you're not gonna have to worry about your back tie blade being too short what
else do we have here so these are all of our Grenadines we have some grenadine
binos this is a dark navy I mean again this is a just such a classic tie every
man needs one of these in their wardrobe I wear that tie all the time available
in two lengths some ancient matter scarves which are so luxurious for
wintertime so we've got these with plenty of time to photograph those and
then some of our other previous shipments again you know these are the
Macclesfield which are the pattern ties I mean beautiful color ways but really
what's even more important than the colorway is the fact that these are all
made with a beautiful hand I absolutely love the hand of our new ties and that
really comes down then not just the weight of the silk and how it's dyed but
even more importantly and probably the most difficult part is the combination
of the inter linings that are used to make that tie
let's see we've got some JAC cards here you know which is a traditional kind of
woven tie so instead of that the pattern or the motif being printed onto the silk
this is actually woven it gives great visual texture a beautiful wine I think
I've already used this tie in one of our videos all of our sovereign grade of
ties especially the permanent collections are meant to be classic ties
that never go out of style that anyone could wear and that's why we're making
them a part of our permanent collection another of course classic style that
should be a part of any permanent collection and of course as a part of
ours are any small dot ties we also have some in London dots so if you're someone
that likes small dots ties I mean again these are the type of ties that are
incredibly easy to wear that don't take much effort to match and that you can be
certain always look great now that we're back in the office I just wanted to go
into a little bit more detail everything that went into making our kirby Alison
sovereign grade collection of ties if you're anything like me three years ago
whenever I set out to design our own collection putting on a tie you know I
used to think that it was so simple but actually what I soon discovered is that
designing the perfect tie is incredibly complex you know in addition to just
finding the perfect maker I had to go to Italy France the United Kingdom to
finally find someone that could make our ties to my standard actually designing
the tie and the different elements that go into it was incredibly complex and I
couldn't be more pleased with the results now the most important element
of a tie the judge of all great ties is how beautiful of a knot does a tie tie
and so much goes into creating the perfect knot I mean so many of us have
gone to a store and found a tie that we've fallen in love with and then taken
it home and tried to tie it and just not been able to tie a nice
not I mean sometimes trying five or six times in the morning to get an even
passable knot it's so frustrating one of the things I love about our sovereign
grade ties is that they have been designed to really tie the perfect knot
every time even more important is the quality in the balance of the
interlining that is used so not just the quality is it a felt in linen or a
hundred percent felt or a hundred percent linen what are the weights of
those but how that interlining interacts with the actual silk so a heavier silk
needs a lighter interlining than a lighter silk these things are so
important to creating the balance that create a beautiful and perfect tonight
with a net with an elegant dimple all of our ties have a great hand but more
importantly produce a beautiful knot with a dimple and a nice rebound this is
because of the quality of the interlining that we use a good tide have
a good quality hand yeah that feels good drapes well and looks beautiful and we
offer that in all of our kirby allison sovereign grade ties now also our
permanent collection of sovereign grade ties are available in two links and a
standard 150 centimeter length or someone like me that's 510 but also in a
hundred and sixty centimeter length for gentlemen that are above six feet tall
now you've all seen that tall gentleman who has a tiny knot and the tie blade is
like all the way up to the top of his shirt that's because the tie is too
short and one size doesn't fit all whenever year comes to clothing and
really the same is true whenever it comes to your ties and for that reason
our sovereign grid collection offers two different links the extra length is also
important for a gentleman that enjoy tying larger knots like a double Windsor
or a more full-bodied tie you need that extra link to really produce that knot
now whenever it comes to make we put even more energy into the cutting in the
construction of the ties first and foremost one of the most important
things of all of our sovereign grade ties is that whenever we hand-cut these
on the table that extra care and effort is being made to make sure that the
pattern is completely symmetric we've all seen it where you know you've got a
beautiful tie but the pattern doesn't align at the tip it's one of my pet
peeves and so we make sure that all of our ties are really laid out on the
table and extra attention is made to making sure that
the pattern sits as symmetrically and as evenly across the pattern of its ilk as
possible it's all cut by hand and whenever you turn it over again you can
see that we're self tipping all of our ties so what that means is that the tie
facing is used for the backing which again just helps create a cleaner look
of course all of our ties have a hand slip stitch which is absolutely
incredible so the slip stitch is the backbone of
the tie and it's that element that unites the silk with the interlining
and it's incredibly difficult to do properly and has to be done by hand what
the slip stitch is is essentially a single thread that is knotted at the
bottom that runs the full length of the tie now we've all seen ties get bunched
up whenever we tie it and what the slip stitch allows is for that tie to be
pulled back straight so in equality ties always gonna Bunch but you need to be
able to return that tie back to its normal shape you can also tell a quality
slip stitch is whenever you pull the tie that you don't hear any popping because
again if a slip stitch is done by hand it's done with the perfect amount of
tension to still allow movement within that tie which allows those elements to
Lake Como all of the silks used in our Kirby Ellison sovereign grid ties are
made in England and I just love the provenance of having a 100% made in
England tie not just the silks but also the construction so an additional two to
seasonal collections a fall and a winter collection that we'll be offering that
are just for those seasons one of the things that I've always wanted is a
perennial collection or a permanent collections that are trans seasonal
these are the most classic kind of quintessentially elegant ties that
really never go out of style and so we have a full collection of those ties
here on hanger project calm and I've got a small selection of them here that I
just wanted to talk to you about so first and foremost you've seen this tie
this is our sovereign grade basket weave tie this is easily probably my favorite
tights the easiest to wear every single time I wear it I get tons of compliments
it's a woven jacquard and this is you know what you would maybe traditionally
call a wedding tie but it's a formal business tie and it's beautiful I wear
it on Sundays I wear it whenever I go to London and this again is a certainly a
cornerstone of our permanent collection of ties next we have our collection of
Macclesfield in Spitalfields ties now those are generally the same these were
British towns that specialized in tie printing that were traditionally known
for their repeating patterns and so we've got a beautiful example of a
Macclesfield here this is a floral print and again this is the type of tie that I
love in my collection because you know you couldn't almost walk into your
closet blindfold pull this tie out and it's gonna match and look perfectly with
almost anything that you're putting together we have another example of a
Macclesfield but this time this is in an ancient matter silk ancient matter is a
very old and traditional form of dyeing silk where the pattern is actually
printed on an undyed and then the entire guy is dipped into the Mater bath now
the Mater bat produces this blue indigo pattern and so whenever this is
originally printed that would have been left blank and so you're actually almost
printing on a negative because that space is filled in by that blue indigo
another important element of an ancient matter tie is how those dyes that are
printed interact with the matter bathroom never it's dipped and there's
an entire art and science that is a very closely held secret that goes into the
way these times are printed I love ancient matter that's a very specialized
typed hard to find you just don't find them in department stores and I'm very
proud to have a large collection of ancient matter ties as a part of our
permanent collection here at Kirby Allison so Robert Keith who we just had
a shoeshine Sunday episode with is actually the only guy left that dies
with ancient matter and so of course we're proud to be getting all of our
ancient matters soaps from him now next no collection of ties really no wardrobe
is complete without Grenadines and so of course we've got a large collection of
Grenadines here and a wide array of colors not just grenadine phenols like
what you see here but grenadine grosses which it has a larger weave that offers
even more visual texture what I love about a grenadine is that it's a solid
tie incredibly easy to wear but because it's woven it still offers enough visual
texture to make it interesting so it's not like a satin tie that is really
shiny we have those also as a part of our permanent collection
but you know again that woven texture gives visual detail you know brings it
down a little bit in terms of formality yet a grenadine is an incredibly formal
tie this in a really dark dark midnight navy or a black is something that you
could wear to a wedding and lastly we have another a jacquard so again a Jack
card is a woven silk so instead of this pattern or motif being printed onto a
piece of silk this is woven that offers additional visual detail and I just love
some of the colors that you can get on a Jack hard time because all these threads
that are being used to weave the tie or individually dyed so you can get
different colors and this is a perfect example of what I would call a classic
Jack card it's in the burgundy or wine color very easy to wear I could be
wearing it with this outfit and it would look fantastic
with a nice tight small repeating pattern which is a hallmark of any
classic pattern that I particularly find myself drawn towards so these are just
five ties that I've pulled to show you but please visit hanger project comm
where we have our full collection of kirby Allison sovereign grig ties all of
our perennials and I promise you you'll find something that you're certain to
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