Male Speaker: Sram's eTap system has been around for a while now. There've
been a few new releases along the way too. There's been the force groupsets,
as well as more recently the access 12-speed groupset. Today we're going
to run through the steps involved in setting up and installing a new eTap system on your bike.
Whilst installing an eTap groupset could feel like a bit of a daunting task,
you're only going to need some basic tools, which chances are most of you will have at home.
You'll need a selection of Allen keys including a five-mil, a four-mil, a two and a half,
and a two-mil. You're also going to need the relevant tools to fit your bottom bracket.
This will of course vary with all bikes depending on the standard yours requires.
It's also a good idea to download the smartphone app to really enable you to access all the
different features of your new eTap groups set. Now Sram's eTap system can be run in
a single chainring option, also, as we're using today, the twin chainring option or two-by-setup.
Now we're installing this onto a Canyon Aeroad so obviously, we're going to be
running two chainrings. Now the setup process is fairly similar, whether you're running a single
chainring or dual chainring, but obviously, you're not going to have the front mech to setup. Now,
as I mentioned earlier, Sram's latest groupset addition, the access 12 speed, all the components
share a common protocol. This will enable different components to be added or removed from
the system quite easily using the smartphone app. This will enable you to add things like the blip
buttons or the multi-click shifter buttons that can be taped underneath your handlebars.
Now another interesting feature is the smartphone app. This will enable you to connect to your group
set, view all sorts of information, it will even tell you how many times you've changed
gear. Now you can use the smartphone app to update firmware of individual components and you can also
link a group set to your Wahoo hedge unit. Now this will show useful information such
as how much battery life the different mechs have got left, and it's to make sure you don't
run out of battery halfway through a ride and get stuck in one gear. Let's make a start. One of the
first jobs we're going to need to do is to link our shifters with our derailleurs to ensure that
they can communicate with each other correctly. Now the first part we're going to need to do is
starting at the rear derailleur. We're going to need to press and hold the small function
button to make the LED illuminate. Now we're going to need to use the same process moving
across to the shifters and then finally onto the front mech two. Once all the LEDs are blinking,
we've got about 20 to 30 seconds for all of the components to successfully pair and link together.
Now if you don't get that done in time, it's just a case of restarting the process
and getting it done within that 20 to 30-second window. Now a useful tip is probably to do it when
all the components are off the bike and sat on the workbench and that'll just make life a little
bit easier. Now that we've done that process, all we need to do is finally check that the shifters
have successfully paired with the derailleurs. Now to do this, all we're going to need to do
is take our shifters and operate them, and just make sure the derailleurs move as they should.
Now because this is a wireless eTap system, we can actually hold the shifters here and watch our
derailleur working its way across the bench. Now that we're happy these are successfully paired,
we can move on to our next step, which is quite simply fitting the components onto the bike.
Now making a start at the front of the bike, we're going to install our shifters. Now I've
got the right-hand shifter here, and simply a case of using the clamp and guiding over the handlebars
and fitting it securely in place. To loosen the clamp off to enable us to fit the shifter, we're
going to have to pull back the lever cover like so, that can gain access to the fiver Allen key,
slot it down here, then we can loosen that off like we can all this, loosen that off.
That will enable us to glide the shifter over the handlebars like so.
Gliding it all the way up like that. Once you've got that in the position you're happy with,
again, fiver Allen key down the side, and we can secure that in place. Now that we've installed
the right-hand shifter, it's quite simply a case of repeating the process to install the left-hand
shifter, and then we can move on to our next step of the process which is installing the mechs.
Now before we can go ahead and install our front mech, we are going to need to install the bottom
bracket and cranks too. Now if you're a bit unsure how to do that, we've got in-depth videos
explaining both press-fit and threaded bottom brackets, as well as videos explaining how to fit
a whole host of different cranks. In order to save a little bit of time, I'm going to use some magic.
Whoa, bloody hell that was quick. Now I can go on and fit the front mech.
Before we can go ahead and actually fit this to the bike, we're going to need to press the
small function button on the mech itself and shift it into the setting for the big ring.
This will enable us to line up the small little mark on the inside
with the top of the chainring teeth here to make sure it's sat in the correct position.
We can take the curved washer and bolt as we've got here, fit this across to the outside of the
derailleur hanger, and that will enable us to guide this in and line it all up.
Tightening this up by hand ensuring to keep the curved washer in the right place on the
front derailleur hanger. Once this is all done hand tight, we can move on to the next step.
Now while the bolt is still hand tight, we can move in and look to correctly set the
height of the front mech and then move around to the back and also check that the mech is
parallel with the chainrings. Once we're happy with those two things, we can go in with our
[unintelligible 00:05:04] Allen key and correctly tighten the bolt to hold it all in place.
Moving on to the rear derailleur. One step we need to do before fitting this onto the bike
is to use the shifters or function button to move the derailleur into its inboard position.
This is where I would sit on the largest sprocket on the cassette. Once we've got that set,
we can move to the back of the bike and install the derailleur onto the mech hanger.
It's important to note that the B limit stops, it's correctly on the derailleur hanger,
as well as the face on the mech itself. As we're installing this, we can just guide
this on nice and carefully and also, as we're doing it, ensure that these stops are sat on the
correct point on the mech hanger as we said. Now that we've got the shifters and mechs paired and
correctly fitted onto the bike, we can move on to the next step of fitting the wheels and the chain.
Now if you're fitting a brand new chain, it's important to make this the correct length. If
you aren't sure how to do this, once again, we've got a video showing you in-depth how to do it.
[music] Male Speaker:
Now we've got the parts all correctly fitted to the bike and we've used the shifters to ensure
that the derailleurs still operate correctly, we can move on to setting the indexing of the
rear derailleur. Now to do this, as I said, we've got the derailleur in its largest
position or most inboard position on the largest sprocket. Now viewing from the rear of the bike,
we can look to see that the top pulley wheel is directly in line with the largest sprocket.
Now if we find that we need to adjust this, we can use the function buttons on the relevant
shifters to hold those down, and then move the shifter to make micro-adjustments. This will work
using the left and the right shifter, moving the derailleur the same way
it would under normal operating conditions. Once you're happy that that part is lined up,
we can take our two and a halfer Allen key and then guide this into the lowest limit screw.
These limit screws operate just as a mechanical derailleur would and we just wind this in until
it just starts to make contact with the derailleur just to stop it over shifting
and placing the derailleur into the spokes which let's face it, you don't want that.
Now having currently set the low limit screw, we can shift all the way down the cassette
into the smallest sprocket and this will enable us to set the high limit screw.
Now it's a case of repeating a very similar process of viewing from the back of the bike,
we can look to see that the top pulley wheel is in line with the smallest sprocket. If it needs
adjusting, we can use our two and a halfer Allen key like so, and just screw the limit screw in
or out depending on what adjustment we need to make. Then once we've got that in line,
that's the high limit screw set. Having set the high and low limit
screws correctly, if you didn't notice while shifting down into this small sprocket there
are some minor adjustments still required on the indexing, we can revert back to using the function
bands on the shifters just to set that indexing and adjust it as required to ensure you've got
crisp and precise shifting. Now having correctly set the high low limit screws and indexing for the
rear mech, we can move on to the front. Now we need to set the high limit screw
first and this is done by placing the bike in the big chainring on the front
and the smallest sprocket at the back. By using the high limit screw adjuster,
we can use our two and a halfer Allen key to place it in there and look to adjust this to
create a small gap between the outer face of the chain and the outer cage on the front derailleur.
Now we can adjust this like so just to create what Sram recommends as a 0.5-millimeter gap.
Now providing it's not actually touching, it will be about right. Having set the high limit screw
correctly, we can now move on to setting the low limit screw correctly. Now one of the first steps
to do is to shift into the small chambering as we have here and the largest sprocket at the
back. Having done that, we can use the low limit screw to adjust a very simple process similar
to what we've done for the high limit screw. The main difference being we're now referring
to the interface of the chain and the inner cage of the front mech. Using this limit screw here,
we can just adjust this like so to create that 0.5-millimeter gap. [unintelligible 00:08:59] once
again, just close enough that it's not actually rubbing on the chain and again it should be fine.
Now having set that low limit screw on the front mech, it's also a great time
now to adjust the B limit screw on the rear derailleur. Now, this is because
you're already in the correct gear to do this. Now the B limit screw we'll adjust a little gap
here between the top pulley wheel and the largest sprocket on the cassette. It's important to
adjust this for crisp and precise shifting. Sram recommend a gap of six to eight millimeters and
it can be adjusted at the back here using the Allen key as required. Now that we've got the
gears all set up correctly and you're happy, it is worth just giving everything one final check
to make sure it all works as it should. Now will be the perfect time to move on
to installing the braking system relevant to your bike. Now this bike is a disparate bike,
and also depends on whether you've got a rim brake bike, we've got videos that will explain both of
those for you. Now would also be the perfect time to move on to using the smartphone app
linking your groupset to your phone. You can do that by following the on-screen instructions
within the app. There you have it, your new wireless groupset set up and ready to go.
Now I hope you've really enjoyed this video, and if you have, as always give it a big thumbs up.
Equally, if you've got any questions or further maintenance videos you'd like to see coming up,
get those in the comment section down below. [00:10:13] [END OF AUDIO]