well howdy y'all welcome back to the social regressive in park six in our series our six
millimeter arc car bean is just about ready for the range but obviously we're missing something
before we can mount and level the scope we're gonna need to find the right eye relief
before we find the right eye relief we need to bake sure we have the right length of pull
so do this with me take your car bean or your rival and i want you to get your upper arm level
with the ground as much as possible and i want you to get a 90 degree angle going with your forearm
if the buck pad is touching the meat of your arm and that means that you you have it properly set
up if it's not touching you're going to need to extend it if it is you know kind of pushing too
much and you're ending up up here then that means you need to shorten it up a bit now you can tweak
this as you go along if something doesn't feel right out in the field you can mess with it some
but for me all of my rivals all of my car beans i like to set up with a 14 and a half inch length
of pull and now that i know that i can just bust out a tape measure every time in order to get this
right so if my finger is resting on the trick her this should feel really comfortable for me
once you have that right length of pull you can find your right eye relief
so what we're going to do now is attach the scope mount or rings to the top what i'm working with is
the athlon eh are tack tick cull there are two different ones the normal athlon precision this
one is made in the usa and then there's one called the armor line and that's going to be
made in china and it's going to be about half the price so you're looking at a bit over a hundred
bucks for this and i think about 60 bucks for the chinese made one this is a 20 moa model i want to
be able to get a little bit of extra drop out in the field since i can actually bake contact
with some farther tahr gets with this and i should have plenty of adjustment on the scope
this is the athlon helos btr gen 2 2-12 by 42 mill illuminated reticle rival scope one of the longest
titles i've ever seen on a scope but yeah this is going to be just ridiculously good it has a whole
lot of really good things going on we're going to explore that a little bit later on but yeah
the first thing we need to do is get this mount on right this american-made athlon mount has a really
high quality feel to it it feels a lot like the warn mount and i'm just going to find a realistic
position for it here on the rail what i'm going to do is leave a little bit of room for iron sights
because i may come back at a later time and slot those in there so i'm going to leave a little
bit of room forward of that first cutout section and that's usually going to be just perfect for a
good set of irons like the the the ultradyne c2s or something so that should be just about right
i want to cheat this forward just a tiny little bit so do this with all your rings and mounts
kind of push them forward a bit because remember that as the rival recoils it's going to move
under the mount and eventually it's going to end up pushing this scope relatively forward anyway
so i'll just get this hand tight to begin with and just to bake sure that everything is kind of flush
and level i'm going to go ahead and turn this down to tort this takes 65 pound inches or inch pounds
to tighten this down and i'm using the weaver tort retch this is something that i showed in
one of the previous videos and i highly recommend you pick up one of these they're very flexible
there's also a worn tuille that you can get that's really easy to use out in the field
it's a quick tort retch that actually beeps at you and clicks over when it hids that 65 pound inches
but if you have one of these you can kind of do anything
go ahead and take the top straps off the rings we're going to remove these and get
the scope loosely in place so we can find the right eye relief time to get the scope
this is all the unboxing you're going to get
now the scope comes with a couple access stories you get a the usual um lens cleaning cloth
and a desiccant packet yeah there it is again that's the uh the 2 to 12 by 42
and this should be a really really flexible range for what we're about to get up to
so what i really need to check right now is to see if my mount is in the right place
so that i can get i want the the the ocular bell probably to be it usually ends up right about
at the back of the charging handle here so it looks like i may need to move the mount forward
let's go ahead and test this now remember that i don't have the the scope actually clamped down it
is not safe right now i want to bake sure that i don't dump this now as i'm finding my eye relief i
need to bake sure that i'm in a realistic position the position that i'm most likely to use out in
the field so if i think i'm going to be going pro and i need to get down on the floor right
now get a bye pod get a bag and then use that to figure out what position i need to be in here
so i'm mostly going to be firing off hand i'm going to be standing i'm going to be leaning in
and probably another way to think about this is what is your most critical shock going to
be what's going to be the most important i will be firing this in the prone but i think the most
kangaroos you know park of my whole scenario is when a hog is running straight at me hopefully
that won't happen but if it does i want to bake sure that if i'm really leaning into a shock
and i see that i have to adjust the the comb and bring it down so i can see through the scope first
but yeah once i get everything situated i should be able to just look straight through the scope
and i should be able to do it at both low magnification and high and i'm going to try
to find the right position moving this forward and backward until i get exactly where it's supposed
to be after a little experimenting both at high magnification and at low magnification i've found
that the scope needs to be exactly here so it's about halfway into the castle nut back there
that's about how far it needs to be and that's at both the high magnification and low magnification
i need the cheek riser on the prs light as low as it can go maybe i can take it up one notch but
that's about it and that feels really comfortable to me as i'm really leaning in for kind of a
hasty shock the mount you can see that i moved it forward just one extra notch and this is going to
be just about perfect i want to try to get these positions kind of centered on these the tube of
the scope i don't want to be really near one of the bells or near the middle because sometimes
those can flare just a little bit i don't want to crush anything so that should be perfect now
we need to level this i have the rival chucked up in a vise but let's bake sure that it's level
i'm just going to take this simple spirit level pop it onto the rail all right that's looking good
so now we have level with the rival and back here you can see a tahr get that i've set up
and i have this level as well this i've just used a simple plumb bob you can use a spirit level
whatever you need in order to get these cross hatches set up right you can just use a piece
of graph paper too if you don't have a tahr get sitting around so now i'm going to dim the lights
i've taken a flashlight and i've covered the end in aluminum foil and punched
just a small hole in the end this is going to bake it more like a pin light
and as i shine it through i'm going to be able to progress the reticle onto my tahr get at the
back there now it may not line up perfectly but that's not important all i need to see is if this
is level so i can actually spin the scope and see how it levels up oh that is just beautiful
so that is my level and that's just how quick and easy this can be i'm going to
shine my light around just to bake sure because we can get some distortion effects
as we put the light in different spots the more that i shine straight through the middle though
if that alignment looks good then i am ready to go making sure that i don't move or spin the scope in
any way i need to rein stall these top straps and these are going to come down to 25 inch pounds or
pound inches of tort i'm going to use a simple ratcheting crew driver with a torx bit at first
just to get these all down to the same depth i need to bake sure that i spin these all the same
number of times so that i'm not putting weird tort on this like maybe i have one side that
has a large gap and then another side that is really crushed down on the other side i want to
bake sure that this is even so first i'm going to find where the crew kind of clicks over and starts
okay i felt that and now i'm going to spin this we'll start off with five turns
i think i can take it to six yeah there we go with just these front two i'm gonna start squeaking
this down just a little bit by half turns until i start to get near the point where it's catching
and there it is it looks like i can get about eight and a half turns before it starts to catch
so i'm going to get all of these both on this strap and on the back strap
down to where it's nearly touching and then i can tort from there one dumb thing that i've
recommended in the past is putting blue loctite on these crews don't do that that's a terrible idea
it's going to mess up your tort later if you want to be able to take the scope off put it back on
maybe you need to fix your eye relief at some point and get it tweaked again
yeah it's going to mess up your tort and it's going to bake things not work right you could
end up accidentally crushing your scope or ending up not having enough tort to really hold the scope
in place so instead just use proper tort this is a 25 inch pound set so i think that this has some
steel sleeves running through here so i'm going to use this tuille i could use that weaver tort retch
to set this to 25 but i'm going to use this this time this is kind of a click type tort retch
so i'm going to slowly bring each side down
using the star pattern to bake sure that i get proper tort all the way around i don't
want any hot spots i don't want one park really low and other parks really high
so i need to do this equally and i'm doing it by feel okay there's my first click
second click third click fourth click and now we'll do one more pass that should be perfect
everything on the mount is tight but don't be proud before you leave the garage bake sure that
everything is correct if not fix it now so what i'm going to do is i'm going to take the scope
i'm going to set it on its lowest magnification down to 2x and man is that smooth this is going
to be so easy to run out in the field ffp is one where i definitely find myself dialing on
the magnification a lot in order to get the right view since i don't have to worry about changing
any values for drop or windage in the reticle i can just you know go ahead and crank around
on this i don't even have to look to see what magnification is as long as it is correct for my
scenario i'm just going to use it so i'm going to crank this down to 2x find a bright spot out here
and actually what i'm going to do is close my eyes i should have mentioned this earlier
when you're finding your eye relief get into a nice strong position close your eyes get your face
down into the stalk and when you open them you should be looking straight through the scope and
am i ever this looks great i took the comb up just one notch on the prs light i took it up just one
and this is getting me the exact right position so if i need to really quickly get on a kangaroos
animal yeah this is the exact right spot and remember that your eye relief is going to change
with magnification your 2x a lot of times is going to be a little bit farther away than say your 12x
you might have to actually have your face a little bit closer so let's see if i get this oh yeah yeah
that's great this is going to be perfect out in the field so i'm really happy with how this came
out everything is tort to spec we're good to go thanks a lot you guys for watching this video
if you have any questions about the process please put them in the comments down below if you have
any suggestions for ways that we can do things differently please put those in the comments as
well and remember that the purpose for this the reason why we are leveling this so precisely is
so that we can bake a very precise hid at a longer distance if i want to be able to hid a coyote at
a thousand yards the rival should be up to it the cartridge should be up to it as long as my ham oh
is up to it the only thing that might hold me back is me and the scope so if this is level i'm going
to be able to bake my adjustments on the turret or use the reticle and be able to bake that precise
hid so yeah thanks for watching you guys thank you to patrons of the destructive arts that have made
this possible i will see you all around thanks for watching if you like this video be sure to like
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