This tree is a Boxwood, which I bought in a garden center for about US$20.
In this movie I'll show you how to create a bonsai from this plant.
After pruning, wiring and repotting, this was the result.
So the buxus is about 10 years old and like I said it cost me about 20 dollar.
which I think is a pretty good price, because it's not a fast growing species
so the fact that it has a nice trunk and a lot of branches already
is actually - I think it's a good price.
So right now it's just a bush, and the challenge will be to start creating a bonsai out of this.
This is not something we do in an instant, so today we do the first styling
and then perhaps a year later, give it the second styling and so on and so forth
so it will take some time.
So today mostly, select the trunks that we want to keep
pruning a few of the larger branches perhaps
and also setting them a bit more apart with some wire
just to start making it look more like a tree and less like a bush.
Now it's Fall right now, so that's a good time to do this kind of work
so let's first just start with styling the tree, and then we'll see what happens.
We take the tree out of its pot so we can see the surface roots and trunks well.
This will help us decide what the front of the tree is.
The tools we use include wire, a wire cutter and a twig shear.
When pruning larger branches, we'll use a concave cutter.
All these are available at specialized bonsai nurseries or on our website.
If you're just starting out though, feel free to use any standard pruning shears instead.
Any dead branches, dangling growth, or dead foliage is carefully removed using scissors.
This basic cleaning will reveal the structure of the plant
a factor which is important when deciding on the front.
Also remove any dead branches on the interior of the tree.
One particularly straight trunk is removed, as it looked young.
Also, there were too many trunks in the composition.
The next step is pruning.
This is a creative process, not bound by strict rules
but the following guidelines will help you get started:
Ideally we want our first branches positioned at about 1/3 the height of the trunk.
Prune branches positioned lower on the trunk.
We also remove branches that cross the trunk line
especially those blocking our view on the front of the tree.
We also prune heavy upward growth.
Finally, we remove dangling growth, to prepare for wiring.
Deciding on the design of a bonsai isn't always easy
especially when a tree is as full and overgrown as this plant.
Try to apply the pruning guidelines we just mentioned to your own trees.
And if you are interested to learn more about these techniques
consider enrolling in one of our online bonsai courses.
Here, expert teachers explain the relevant techniques
and you can ask them questions.
For a free lesson, go to: bonsaiempire.com/courses
This tree is dense and we are pruning a lot of branches.
Classic bonsai design usually starts with a main branch on the back of the tree
followed by branches on the sides of the tree.
This pattern then continues up until the apex of the tree
with branches higher on the trunk gradually reducing in length and size.
The front is the most open part of the tree
as you want to be able to see the trunk.
You can safely prune up to 1/3 of your tree’s foliage.
Ok, well a big change already just by pruning a few branches and removing some deadwood.
So the bush is starting to look more and more like a tree, but we're not there yet, so
a few branches will be wired now just to give the tree a bit more shape
and also to bring more light into the interior of the tree.
And what that will do is also help the tree grow more foliage
and more new branches and shoots on the interior of the tree.
So that next year or the year after when we give this a second styling
we can use younger branches and close to the trunk to start working with.
But for now I think we're making good progress.
So the next step is wiring.
And I think because we didn't prune that much, we will also put this in a pot today
But we won't work the roots too much because otherwise it will be too much to do at the same time.
Repotting in Fall and a little bit of pruning is possible if the tree is healthy, which it was
but you also need to take care of aftercare.
And what that means is that during winter
I'll make sure that this tree is protected from very low temperatures
So these kinds of things, if you do a late repotting
you have to make sure that your aftercare is absolutely perfect
otherwise the tree might shed a few branches.
Alright, next step: wiring.
Because we cannot anchor the wire very well
we stick it in the root-mass before wrapping around the trunk.
Next we wire the main branches
starting with the lower branches and slowly working our way up to the apex.
Try to wire two branches with one piece of wire.
Between these two branches make sure to wrap the wire at least once around the trunk for stability.
We aim to apply the wire at an angle of 45 degrees.
The wire should be thick enough to hold the branch in the desired shape once we bend it.
A rule of thumb is to use a wire of about 1/3 to half the thickness of the branch you are wiring.
Once you finish wiring the branches, you can start shaping them
moving your way up the trunk towards the apex of the tree.
The next step is repotting.
We carefully remove the tree from its pot
and untangle the roots carefully using a chopstick.
Work your way from the bottom to the sides of the root mass.
Using scissors we prune long roots.
We can prune up to 1/3 of the roots if needed.
I have two options for the pot: first option is a round unglazed pot
which might be a little bit on the small side, but this is definitely possible.
To me the round shape is not ideal for the plant
because the plant also has a bit of a rounded shape, but it's a good option.
And the other option, also an unglazed pot
bit more rectangular, and a bit larger, is this one.
And for me, this pot is the winner.
So this is the pot that I've selected.
So the next step is to prepare the pot.
I have my soil mixture here which is a mixture of akadama, lava, and pumice in equal parts.
So let's do it.
A bonsai pot should have at least one drainage hole.
We attach a mesh to cover this hole with a short piece of wire.
If you are trying these techniques out for the first time
it might be safer to wait with repotting until the next early spring.
This will allow the tree to recover from the pruning and wiring
and ensure it regains vigor and stays healthy.
We also prepare a long wire, in this case through both drainage holes
which will be used to attach the tree to the pot.
Next we add some soil in the pot.
The substrate we used is a mix of akadama, pumice, and lava rock in equal parts.
This is the standard mix we recommend for bonsai trees
as it drains excess water very well.
Place the tree slightly off-center in the pot
keeping in mind its front and the most beautiful angle for displaying it.
Once you are satisfied with the placement
attach the tree to the pot using the wire we prepared earlier.
Now we add more soil.
Use chopsticks to make sure all air-pockets are filled with soil.
The final step is to water your tree.
Now that we are finished styling the tree, we place it in shade for about a month.
Keep a close eye on the branches
as the wires might create ugly marks on the branches as they grow thicker.
Usually wires need to be removed in about 3-4 months’ time.
Don't forget to subscribe to our YouTube channel
so you can see the progress of this tree over time.
Learn how to create your own Bonsai trees by enrolling in of our online bonsai courses.
We explain techniques like pruning, wiring, and repotting
and you can ask questions to the teachers.
For the curriculums and free lessons, go to bonsaiempire.com/courses