welcome to be Enots engineering I'm Alan in today's video we cover three items
first one we'll machine 5mm off the back of the parting off tool
so it fits in the tool post better
we then look at the tool post strip it down and see what maintenance needs doing on it each year
and finally we look at the ER32 collet run-outs
and i get the collets running true
so let's go to the workshop and see how we do it
I've moved over onto the mill now and what I want to do is
when I tried this out the other day I found that the block width here where the tool goes
into the holder is far too long I need some milling off the top
this was the tool holder and you can see the parting off tool goes in there
there's a clamp on the top
you can see this holder sticks out too far from the tool holder
and what I want to do is take 5mm off this side
so this will go further into the tool holder and reduce any leverage or vibration
now the important thing about this, this is the tool face which is square
so I'm going to locate off this parallel strip
into the vice
tighten the vice upon that
and I'll take 4mm of the top face
bring this down to the top
zero my digital readout
I'll see how this cuts
I don't know wether this is hardened steel
I think I'll change that for a face mill
I think I'll use this mill which has four inserts
probably do the job a lot faster
so there's the finished part
its taken about 4.5mm off the top
It fits in right up to the face now
that should be okay that material was really tough
the finish it's not too bad
so that should fit in my tool holder a lot closer
put the blade and the top back on and we'll see
okay you see now there's no gap between the tool holder and the parting off tool
so I've moved this in 5mm
so in case you were wondering
that looked like light shining through it wasn't it's just the 45-degree edge
that's the finish on the steel
now while I'm looking at the tool post
I think I'll just show you how we strip this down
I'll take it apart about once a year give it a good clean
so I'll just show you how I do that first of all remove some holder
I'll take this over to the table and have a look
take the spanners off
remove the top nut
remove the bush
take the spindle out
now on the bottom you can see two cams
on mine this ones painted blue and this one's not
so don't know what differences
but what I've done is always kept them in the same location
so we start with this one on the front they're both the same
so whichever one you undo all you do hold the front in because its spring-loaded
lift the cam out let the button go then
and you see that just a diameter
and inside you should have a spring which goes in the hole in the back
now I've cleaned this out recently but what happens is this gets full of swarf
and starts to prevent the cam lock locking the tool into the post
so at least once a year take it apart clean it all out put some oil on and reassemble it
now to reassemble it I found the easy way to do it just put that down on the surface
and then lower this on the top and then return the cam
through the top
that's in so as you turn the cam on the top here
you see it turns in the the lock
and locks on to your tool
but you find that swarf does especially for some reason
brass which are very fine chippings they get into the back here and build up
and then over time if you don't clean this out it starts locking up onto the swarf
and you probably think why is my tool not locking up properly
and the same with the other one exactly the same
clean this out replace the bush in the top
put the tee nut and shaft through
lock nut on the top
and that's ready to replace back onto the lathe
if you put some oil on the cams inside the bore simple job takes about 20 minutes
I used a toothbrush to get inside there to clean out swarf
I see the blue tits are back in the nest box this year
the first thing to do is clean the taper
what I will do is just tap this in
take off the nut
and we'll check what the bore run out is without the drawbar
so without the drawbar fitted that's running out 0.001"
zero to 1 or 10 on there is a 0.001"
The dial indicator is in tenths 0.0001
so now what I'll do is fit the drawbar
and we will see what the run-out is then
centralising bush and the nut
so that's gone from a thou to a couple of tenths
if I tighten the drawbar up further
that's 0.0002"run out
0.0002" run out on the taper
now remember that was ground in the headstock
so that should be zero and I did have it last time I fitted it was running at zero
so I'm getting the ER32 collet this is the one we used before when I ground the bore
this is the nut that came with the collet holder
I'm putting in there a dowel a ground dowel all the way through
so I know when it squashes on the collet it's using the full length of the collet
tighten the collet up
we'll check the run out of the dowel
get the DTI square
we know the bores running true that's running out 0.003"
now I'm going to do slacken this off
now some of you may think these collets are useless
i'll put the collet there you can see it
that's nut I've just taken off we'll try this nut which came with the collet set
same collet
same dowel
put this one on
so that run out has gone from 0.003" with the other collet nut
to about 0.0005" of a thou with this collet nut
so obviously the run out now depends on the collet nut
so that was 0.0005" so let me just tighten up the bar drawbar a little bit
see if that makes any difference
about 0.0004"
it's less than half a thou
the first thing I noticed is the run out on the dial indicator alters with the amount of pressure you put on the drawbar
so I just nipped it up a bit more
so I know now that the
the run out on the inside of the collet holder where I ground it last week
is less than 0.0001"
you can see the run out on that is about 0.0001"
so we've seen that if I use the collet nut that came with a collets
I can get it down to 0.0001" run out now I'm changing back to the collet nut
that came with this collet holder to see what the run-out is there
0.0025" run out
so the only difference between the two trials
is that this one has a 0.0025" run out and the other one a few tenths
so if you're having problem with your collet run out it might pay just to
buy another nut collet nut and try it to see if it improves it
well that's it for today hope that's interesting and quite a few things there
hope you enjoyed it and if you did why not subscribe and we'll see you next time
on Enots engineering