You can refresh the appearance of your watch by changing the leather watch band. You can
easily replace the band with something similar or something completely different with these
easy steps from Esslinger-dot-com. If your watch band is held in place with what looks
like a double headed screw, this is the guide for you.
The tools you will need are: A watchmaker's flat head screwdriver
A screwdriver blade block OR a second watchmaker's flat head screwdriver
A parts tray A pair of non-magnetic tweezers
A replacement watch band And optional: two Gucci style screws
When your goal is to change a watch band held in place with Gucci screws, you must first
remove the old band from the watch case. Before you can remove the screws from the watch band,
you must first find which end actually screws out of the band.
To do this, you will need to hold one side of the screw pin steady while unscrewing the
other. You can use either your screwdriver block and flat head screwdriver or two flat
head screwdrivers to hold it steady. We recommend using a screwdriver block because it is more
stable and less likely to damage your watch pin or band.
Take the screwdriver block, and find which blade best fits the screw head.
Once you know which blade to use, line the screw blade with the screw head on one side
of the watch band. When it is in place, turn the block and watch so the watch case is standing
up on its side on the block with the other end free.
Then, insert the blade of your free screwdriver into the other screw head. Make sure that
your first turn is a sharp and quick turn counter-clockwise so that you break the glue
seal holding the screw in place. You may need someone to hold the screwdriver block steady
so it doesn't spin while you work.
Once the seal has been broken, continue turning your screwdriver counter-clockwise. When the
screw comes loose, remove it with your non-magnetic tweezers and place it in your parts tray for
safe keeping.
Since there is no way to tell which side of the screw will come loose, if after turning
the screw several times it does not look like it has loosened at all, turn the watch case
over so you can try unscrewing from the other end.
Position the end you were unscrewing on the screwdriver block and turn it upright. With
your free screwdriver, begin to turn the other end of the screw counterclockwise.
When the screw comes loose, remove it and place it in your parts tray to keep it safe.
You can remove the watch case from the screwdriver block at this point
Hold the watch case in your hand and with your non-magnetic tweezers, push the remaining
screw bar piece out of the watch band. When you can grab the screw bar with your fingers,
pull it free and put it in your parts tray.
The first end of the leather band should fall away from the watch case. Pick it up and set
it aside so you can keep track which side of the watch case it belongs to.
Now, repeat this process for the other half of the watch band. Start by matching the screwdriver
block blade with the screw head on one side of the other half of the watch band.
Turn the watch case so that the free end with the screw head is facing up and the watch
case is balanced on the screwdriver block.
Take your screwdriver and insert it into the upward facing screw and turn it counter-clockwise.
Make sure that your first turn is a sharp and quick turn counter-clockwise so that you
break the glue seal holding the screw in place.
Once the seal has been broken, continue turning your screwdriver counter-clockwise. When the
screw comes loose, remove it with your non-magnetic tweezers and place it in your parts tray for
safe keeping.
As before, if the screw does not come loose after turning it several times, flip the watch
case over and try removing it from the other end. After you remove the screw you can take
the watch case off of the screwdriver block and set the block aside.
Use your non-magnetic tweezers to push the remaining screw bar out of the watch case
and band. When the bar is partially out of the case, grab it with your fingers and pull
it free. Place it in your parts tray for safe keeping.
At this point, the second half of the watch band should fall free from the watch case.
Set the second half of the leather band aside with the first one to ensure that the watch
clasp opens and closes the same way as before when you replace it.
Now, you need to measure your existing watch band to be able to get the right size replacement
watch band. For help measuring your watch band, check out this link.
Before you begin to place the new band on your watch case, you should consider replacing
your Gucci style screws. The screws wear out just like spring bars do, and while you can
use your old screws you run the risk of losing your watch band.
Once you have the new watch band, you can replace it on the watch case. Using the old
band for reference, choose one side of the new band that you know belongs to one side
of the watch case.
Place the first end of the new leather band between the two metal lugs of the watch case.
Align the holes in the watch band with the holes in the watch lugs and take one of the
screw bars from your parts tray.
Insert the screw bar into tube created by the holes in the watch band and the watch
case. The bar will hold the ends together while you place the screw into the other end.
Take one of the screws in your tweezers and insert it into the open end of watch case
lug. Turn it in clockwise once or twice with your screwdriver into the screw bar.
With the screw held in place, grab the screwdriver block and align it with the screw bar head
end of the end piece. Turn the watch case so the loose screw is accessible to your screwdriver.
Using the screwdriver block to hold the bottom screw head in place, turn the top screw clockwise
until it tightens into place.
When you cannot turn the top screw anymore, remove the watch case from the screwdriver
block and turn the case around so you can reattach the second half of the band into
place.
Pick up the second half of the watch band and place it between the two open lugs of
the watch case. Be sure that the hole through the watch band lines up with the holes in
the watch lugs.
Then, grab the second screw bar and slide it into the tunnel created by the holes in
the watch case and the watch band.
Once the screw bar is in place, take your last screw with your tweezers and insert it
into the open end of the watch lug. Turn it clockwise once or twice with your screwdriver
to ensure that it stays in place.
Now that you know the screw won't fall out of the watch case, take your screwdriver block
and align the blade with the screw bar end of the watch pin.
Turn the watch case so it is standing on its side on the screwdriver block and the free
end is accessible to your screwdriver.
Using the screwdriver, turn the loose screw end of the link clockwise into place. When
you can't tighten it anymore, you know the band is securely back in place.
Now your watch will look as good as new with its new watch band. For more help with watch
repair, visit Esslinger-dot-com's learning center.