Next is buttonholes, we are going to find that we've got a couple different ways to
do button holes, with two different feet and I am actually going to show you three different
kinds of buttonhole.
People always ask, but I'm not doing garments, why do I need to learn how do buttonholes?
You know, there's a lot of places buttonholes are showing up from home dec items, decorative
places that you can weave ribbon through.
How about two of them side by side for a drawstring pair of pants or a drawstring bag.
It's a great place for anything that's going to roll thru back and forth.
If you want to do something with shower curtain area where you want to hook those on those
rings at the top and all you'd need is buttonholes.
Super easy and with a couple tries here.
You're going to see why you will love them when that you see how to do them.
First off, this is an automatic one and the automatic one is going to have a bar at the
bottom.
This whole entire foot is going to stick out the back side.
I'm going to hold it at the front.
If you take a hold on the left side the back little white arm sticking out that's going
to open up an area here.
You'll hear that click click click this part is where you're going to take your button
and actually insert it and then snug it up into the back to the buttonhole foot.
This is going to make the buttonhole that exact size.
When you put it on, head in, slide it all the way in, sometimes I'll use the left of
the foot, I'll push it up higher than needed and then bring it into that center area, and
then slide that on to place just like you do with your other feet.
Now this thread is always sitting on top, it's okay if you want to just go ahead and
leave it off to the side for your very first buttonhole.
Then it will draw itself down for the second one.
You're also starting at the lower part of where your buttonholes going to be at, because
it's going actually stitch away from us while we're down here.
I may go ahead and just set it down where our first stitch is going to take.
Back behind the needle thread if you look underneath there's a lever, another lever
that's going to come down.
It has a picture area buttonhole on it that's what's actually going to tell the machine
when to turn around, based on the size of the button that's sitting next on the back
of this foot.
Remember down here, I'm just going to point that's where ... there was that little quick
reference guide on here is for your button set up information.
It will tell you what foot to use, it tells us to drop our attention down to 3, between
2 and 4.
I'll just put it at 3.
That's going to actually make the stitches pull to the back side, it makes for prettier
buttonhole.
Stitch length .5, somewhere between the 0 and 1 you get to do a test run.
See which one is properly set for the thread thickness that you're using.
Your stitch width is at 5.
When you pick the buttonhole stitch you're going to come past your 1, all the away over
into the buttonhole picture.
Now we're going to use this little reset part here.
The little gray with the return arrow when we're finished with the buttonhole.
I'll highlight that when we're done.
All we need to do, usually what I'm going to have it do is just hold this thread, off
to the side for the first couple stitches.
Start to sew, it's going to start with a tack at the bottom and then start working up the
left hand side.
It's going to do the whole thing for us.
All we have to do it is really just let it stitch.
It'll turn around and then come back down the other side.
Now being that this is a mechanical machine, it did not know where we had started.
You need to actually stop it when it gets back to the tack that it did at the bottom.
Bring your needle all the away up and take up lever to the top.
Lift it up and pull that right on out.
I'll take these threads and show you that we have, a buttonhole.
Super easy you want a little bit tighter you can shorten the stitch length.
If you want it a little bit looser you can make it a little bit longer.
Now that thread that was on top is actually drawn down and underneath and if you like
that seting then all you need to do is just go ahead position that right back in there
and stitch again.
Oh, not yet we do have to do the reset button because machine still thinks it's coming back
down that right leg.
Listen to the distinctive click you're going to have when you reset it, click and back.
Bring it back to the buttonhole stitch.
Now it knows you're ready to do the next one.
It will start off with a little tack at the bottom and now roll up the side, turnaround
at the top and come back as it's needed.
To practically do this with your hands in your lap bring that needle up and trim your
threads off.
That's the easiest one so that foot has the ability to do buttonholes.
Let that slide that off, and place that little lever back up, there you go.
To do buttonholes about, an inch and a quarter long, so if you do find yourself with bigger
buttons, you do you need to switch to a different foot.
I always like to store little button in this foot, it's been that way when I get back to
it, it could be six months or a year later.
You're like oh yeah I remember I have to put a button back there, that's how my buttonhole
foot always looks when it's stored away.
Alright, the other foot that came with your machine is the foot C. Now, this doesn't have
any automatic feature, if I need to make a buttonhole that was longer than what I could
do with the automatic one, this would be what I will use.
This is going to be in the same concept where we're going to draw 2 lines, a start and an
end point that we will use, turn around and put it on the start point.
By the way these little measurements out here, this is so if you're starting right from the
edge, you can measure up and you can have the exact same start distance.
You really don't even ... all you need is one, well, it's still 2 marks.
But, it definitely will make sure that first starting stitches always at the same place
all the time.
What we're going to do we're going to reset and bring back everything else setting-wise
is going to be the same.
You do need that lever pull down even though it's not actually sitting up against the foot.
When we get back to where we need to be so I may go ahead and stitch all the way back.
Obviously, I'll see my line, I'm going to fake it here and I am going to take my finger
and I'm going pull this lever towards me.
You also will hear a click that's you telling the machine that's time to turn around and
I'll do the tack at the top and then come forward.
Once again you need to slow down and stop as you've overlapped if you had the first
stitches that it took.
That's how you would do a manual buttonhole, pretty easy on that.
Once again, just reset, start again and you can just go ahead and go ... I've got to put
it back, that's what it was.
Put it back to the buttonhole stitch.
There's the tack all the way back, tap the finger against the lever when you need it
to turn around and bring it back down towards that starting point.
You can also do you a corded buttonhole.
Now, corded buttonhole is when you actually take some cord and lay it behind or underneath
the back part of the buttonhole foot.
You'll notice they both have this little knob at the back and this cord will come over and
under and then up through the front, and see how it lay in there kind of parallel to what
you're working with on in there.
Then the stitching will go over it and give it a very nice filled-in look.
It also stabilizes the buttonhole to see on stretchy fabrics or something very heavy.
But, that's how it's going look like I'm actually going to use the manual buttonhole foot here.
Still have that little lever pulled down.
Put our threads underneath our foot here.
I usually like to get this positioned then put the cord around the back of the foot.
Everything else can fairly stay the same.
Put that underneath.
If anything you might make the stitch like just a little bit longer because it will kind
of ... if it's too close it can actually pile up 'cause you're adding some extra thickness
down here.
We'll just go ahead and see how it looks, we're going to go ahead and start with that
little tack at the bottom.
It will travel up the cord.
It's kind of dragging one side away from it, just said go ahead and do it as long as you
want tap the little button to tell when you want to turn around.
Then I'll come right back down the other side covering it up.
Stop there, needle comes all the way to the top, reset.
Now, just so you're already back to do your next one but look at what we're going see
next.
We're going find that, we're going clip our purple threads away.
We can see this little extra loop that's sticking up.
We can give it a little tug and it will disappear down into the satin stitching, all the way
'cause pulling through it goes away.
Then you take your scissors and trim the cord off here.
You really don't need a worry about those once you give them a little pull.
There you go.
Now to open this up, a really pair ... a sharp pair of scissors ... a seam ripper is not
recommended we're always worried you're going to go too far.
Then also there is a buttonhole cutter that consists of a block of wood and is chisel
will cut these open perfectly.
I always like to put a little frey check on my buttonholes before I actually open them
up let it dry for about five minutes and then they won't fray at all after they've been
cut.