Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette!
Today's video is all about rain gear for gentlemen that you can wear when you
don't want to put on your Gore-Tex active wear when it's really wet outside.
Normally most kind of rain gear is polyester based not very stylish.
So we focus on the elegant aspects but the
good thing is there is not all that many things apart from maybe a trench coat, an
umbrella and good shoes.
The number one item of outerwear for a rainy day in my opinion is a trench coat.
If you're wearing tailored clothes, it's just an
extension in terms of originality, style and history of the suit.
Trench coat is originally a military garment and if you
want to learn more about it - the history, the intricate details and what makes a
trench coat a trench, please check out our in-depth trench coat guide here.
If you want to know if the classic Burberry trench coat is worth it or not, I suggest
to check out this video here.
In summary a trench coat is made specifically for
wet weather from cotton gabardine.
I suggest you go with a double breasted
silhouette because it's more classic and it actually has a functional advantage
because of the overlaying fabric.
You are less likely to get wet on the inside.
In terms of color, khaki or sand is the most classic variety.
It goes with most outfits, a business suit as well as more
casual garments.
Because of that, it works quite well.
It can stain a bit more easily than let's say a black, navy or a
gray trench coat.
And if it's your first trench coat I always suggest to go
with a khaki one.
I find them so versatile and especially it can get a
wool liner which extends the range you can wear it in because it keeps you
warmer.
And if you are on that route, I suggest to even go with a darker color
such as black.
And if you live maybe in England where it rains a lot and
temperatures are not extreme, having a third one may be a good idea.
The second classic option are rubberized raincoats.
Back in the day, it was like rubberized cotton.
Personally I'm not a huge fan of that because the rubber is not
breathable.
And even though you don't get wet from the outside, you're still
wet from the inside.
Modern raincoats for gentlemen are often made out of synthetics.
And while I'm in general not a big fan of synthetics, the
advancements that have been made in fabric technology are quite stunning.
And so things like Gore-Tex or eVent fabrics
allow you to not get wet all the while having a breathable
garment which is quite nice especially if you're active.
If you have to walk a lot you definitely want something that
is breathable.
That being said the cotton gabardine of a trench coat is water repellent
and breathable but it's by no means a performance fabric.
Personally I own a bunch of trench coats which are about knee length.
And sometimes I want a shorter jacket so I have this
motorcycle style inspired jacket that is navy blue with big patch pockets.
It's made out of a cotton canvas that is
breathable yet it was treated with a water repellent.
It keeps me dry even when it's really rainy outside on a more
casual day.
Most modern raincoats come in a very simplistic plain design.
Oftentimes they're single breasted and they feature
a zipper because with buttons you'll be more likely to get wet.
Sometimes you can also find them in reversible versions
which colors different or there may be a pattern.
Personally I'm not a huge fan of the reversible garments.
I don't own raincoats.
I don't like them.
I stick with a classic trench coat or if I go into
more extreme terrain, I use the eVent North 66 jacket with a hood.
It's a shell liner that I can combine with fleece
jackets or like Patagonia breathable under layers.
And that way I can ski at negative 20 or 30 degrees but also just
wear it when I'm hiking for example.
The third option for gentlemen are classic casual wax jackets.
Basically these are garments made out of cotton that have a
waxy surface that creates a patina over time that's very sophisticated.
At the same time the wax is water repellent and so
you stay dry.
If you are strolling through a country garden or visit the historic
house over the weekend, I find this kind of jacket to be your best bet.
Some of the more well-known makers include
Barbour and Private White.
I find that you can find these jackets oftentimes
used with a nice patina already at a fraction of the retail price.
So if you don't want to splurge in a garment like
that maybe that's the right option for you.
Traditionally they are cut very roomy.
They have big patch pockets where you can
store things and sometimes even poacher pockets so you could put in the pheasant
or the rabbit that you just shot.
Most people don't use their pockets for
hunting or shooting anymore.
That being said the modern everyday carry can be
quite large and so having a jacket with lots of pockets can be advantageous also
when you travel.
The fourth thing to consider for a gentleman are performance
fabric that are based in a sartorial realm.
For example a few years back Loro Piana introduced their Storm System
which means you have high quality yarns that you would find in a regular suit
jacket but they're made water repellent and wind repellent.
And because of that they're quite suited for a rainy day.
At the same time the garment remains
breathable and you get that soft cashmere or wool feel that you're used
to from your regular sport coat, blazer or suit.
In terms of shoes and shoe care, I'm a big stickler for traditional
leather dress shoes and most of them can bear some form of rain without a problem.
Your feet will remain dry.
If you pre-treat your shoes you don't have to
worry too much.
So for a regular calf leather shoe with leather soles
I suggest you invest in a leather sole oil and sometimes you can also find
water repellent sprays that you spray on.
Frankly, polishing your shoes on a regular basis will prevent the water
from permeating the leather too quickly.
Traditionally suede leathers we're not a good option for rainy days.
However in recent years I've found leathers that are
tanned with a water repellent built in so when you put water on it, it runs
right off.
And while it's not 100% waterproof, it's a lot better than
what it used to be.
So you live in a rainy climate and you want to wear suede shoes?
Make sure you get the right leather.
Now some people may argue that you can waterproof any suede leather shoes with
aftermarket water repellent sprays.
And while that's true it's never as good as if that
process actually took place during the tanning and dyeing process because the
spray-on water repellent will wear off over time and you'll have to keep
reapplying it.
Now if you regularly get wet feet with your leather soled dress
shoes it may make sense to invest in a pair of rubber sole dress shoes.
Tow big brands are Vibram and Dainite.
They both have quality products.
I think the Vibram soles are lighter in weight.
Dainite is much heavier.
So it depends a bit on how heavy or
lightweight you prefer your shoe to be.
It's really common to see rubber soles on leather dress boots.
Personally that's where I usually apply them.
I don't like them on my dress shoes so if it's a
rainy day outside I opt for the boots.
The third option you have is to go with over shoes or galoshes.
It's an overshoe usually made out of vulcanized rubber or synthetics that you
can wear on top of your dress shoe during winter months or heavy rains and
they protect your shoes considerably that way.
Up until a few years ago there were more of a relic of the past and you
saw it a lot in the 40s 50s and 60s.
It was a company by the name of Swims which
introduced very colorful versions in orange and bright blue and I think ever
since the over shoe has become more popular again.
Personally, I always try to avoid galoshes simply because they make
your shoe look a lot more bulky.
However if you have just a few dress shoes and
you know it rains a lot and maybe you are on business trips a lot where you
can only just bring one or two pairs of shoes, having a pair with you can really
save your shoes and extend the lifetime considerably.
If you are interested in those, Swims is definitely the big kid on the block
However at $95, I find them quite expensive.
There's other company from Sweden called Fred & Matt, they have a
breathable material.
It covers the entire shoe that is hand sewn.
Because the Swims one, they leave the top part of your shoe exposed otherwise it
would be hard to get on.
So either you do a little bit of research before you buy a pair of
galoshes or you wait for us to create an in-depth guide about them.
Stay tuned!
If you're into Cordovan shoes, I suggest you really try to avoid wet
weather with those because it can lead to very ugly water stains which are hard
to remove.
To learn more about Cordovan, please check out this guide here.
So what if your leather dress shoes or your boots
get really wet or soaked.
The good thing is there is a solution for both
scenarios.
If your shoe has water stains or if it is soaked or really wet, what
you should do is to evenly wet the shoe.
That seems counterintuitive but by adding water back into the shoe and
letting it dry in a natural way without artificial heat, you will have a nice
leather again that has no more water stains.
Make sure not to put them in the sun or in a radiator because that will damage
your leather.
A step-by-step tutorial would be too long for this video but
stay tuned for a guide in the near future.
If you live in an area where it rains a lot or you have to deal with
floods regularly it pays to invest in some really sturdy rubber boots that are
tall or rain boots that are 100% waterproof.
In the US popular choices include LL Bean but frankly I don't find
them very attractive.
Another famous option from Britain are the Hunter Wellies and
we discuss whether they're worth their money or not in this video here.
If you want a luxury version of your rubber boots go
with the leather lined ones from Le Chameau from France.
However they'll set you back $500.
During the cold days of the year.
A pair of unlined dressy leather gloves or even lined
leather gloves that are waterproof can be a godsend.
Because of that at Fort Belvedere, we created leather that is waterproof in the
tanning process so they remain soft, stylish and elegant yet waterproof.
To learn more about these gloves, please check out our shop here.
For gentlemen, a felt hat can be a great way to
keep dry.
They're usually made out of rabbit hair which is naturally water repellent.
However that being said the better option is to go with an umbrella because
it's much wider and it really keeps you much drier.
In my opinion, it's the primary accessory a men should have in
the rain.
If you travel a lot with carry-ons big versions are sometimes
difficult to bring along even though quality makers such as Francesco Maglia
have come up with a version that you can screw apart but you have to be really
determined to go with something like that.
If you're at home a proper full length umbrella sometimes with a handle made
out of the same piece of wood as the stick or the cane is a very elegant
version.
We have an in-depth umbrella guide on our website that you can check
out for recommended makers and to learn about the differences of silk canopy or
polyester canopies and the mechanisms, as well as horn tips and the different
woods you can go with.
Now if you invest in a quality umbrella it really looks the part.
It keeps you dry and it's very stylish at the same
time it also attracts thieves.
So whenever you're at the store, pay
attention to your umbrella because I know many people who had their very
expensive umbrella stolen from them which is not just frustrating but also a
waste of money.
For more specific details about this topic please check out the
rain wear guide for gentlemen on our website here.
In today's outfit, I'm wearing a classic Burberry trench coat
with a Raglan sleeve.
It has the D rings on the belt and I exchanged the factory
buttons with some vintage buttons which makes the whole ensemble unique.
And even though there are thousands of perfect
trench coats out there no one is like this one.
I'm wearing this on top of a classic navy suit, white
shirt, a red Macclesfield Neats tie from Fort Belvedere.
As well as brown semi brogue shoes from Ace Marks.
The socks are from Fort Belvedere.
They are shadow striped socks in navy blue and yellow which work well with the suit
and contrast the shoes.
The bold umbrella in green red and yellow is from
Francesco Maglia in Milano.
And instead of the regular handle it has that little
seat attachment which can be quite handy when you're in a gallery or you're just tired of standing.