so up to our first basic clipping exercise so we're going to do the install of the first fix
requiring us to install the plastic accessories onto a wooden board but before doing so we're
going to need to facilitate the hole in the top of the box as you can see this one's already come out
the stores with a hole in it we don't believe that the IP rating of IP4X on the top of that would be
acceptable with the size of cable going into the hole so i'm going to show us how to get a better
fit for the cable before we have to fill it with a silicone sealant so let's see how we're going
to put the hole in the top of this box often on site then to remove the plastic area in the top or
bottom or side of a box we take a pair of pliers we grasp onto the plastic which is already been
pre-broken into position and then we knock out our hole so that's a nasty great big hole either in
the top or side or bottom of the box which will never get back to the correct IP rating either
IP4X on the top surface or IP2X on the remaining surfaces so obviously there must be a better way
of making the hole in the box to facilitate the cable and let's see how we're going to do that
in order that we're going to cut out a hole that will be a reasonable size in order to
facilitate in this case of one millimetre squared cable but doesn't leave too much
room because obviously we're going to need to reinstate the IP rating using a silicon sealant
i'm going to cut out down there down there and then break off gently with my pair of pliers
the top lip and then file it out using a needle file okay so it's
nice and smooth so let's see how we're going to do that take my junior hacksaw
gently run down the inside of that line on both sides
okay i haven't gone fully down it could go a little bit further down than that but i know
i've only got one little cable in order to go into the top of the box i take my pliers
and i'm going to position them just to break out that section
okay i now need to file that down using the needle file in order to get my needle file in i've got to
break this part of the box away here so i can use a screwdriver in order to break out the inner lip
okay like so and obviously now i can take my needle file and i can work away at that edge there
okay let's take our needle file and we'll work this line down so it's closer to where we might
with the hacksaw preferably would have had a smaller pair of pliers that perhaps could have
got us a fraction deeper in there unfortunately college all our pliers are really large they're
going to take a needle file and we're going to work that down until it's down to the
level where we've made the cut and therefore a cable can be facilitated so we're working it
away with our needle file we're bringing that line down and we'll bring it down to this level here so
i'm going to work on this and i'll show you when i'm done so what we can see is i've worked it down
to the line of where i've cut it just finishing off making sure some nice smooth edges and we can
see later on in the first fix when the cable is inserted we're going to have a reasonable fitting
around the actual cable itself the ip rating will not be on the top of this enclosure IP4X so there
still will be um accessible for objects that are greater than one mil so we're going to end up
having to put a silicon sealant in here to return the IP right to its correct value we'll do that
later on so at the moment that box is now ready to be secured to in this case our wooden surface
so what we're going to do now is we're going to replace this box with the hole that's like
too large we know when the cable goes in there the IP range will be miles off IP4X so we'll
take this one away and we're going to replace it with the one i've just cut out which obviously
has a hole that better facilitates the cable and will make it easier to return the IP rating down
first time we've fixed a wooden board i've already got four of my five accessories down we're going
to use the bradawl to make a hole by pushing it against the wood we're going to be using
three quarter inch number eight countersunk screws it's a plastic box it has a countersunk recess at
college so we're using countersunk screws we're also going to use the two outside fixing points
i'll break them through for you to show you what they are the two outside ones one of them has a
slightly larger screw fixing so it gives us the ability to adjust if we don't quite get it level
so our box goes down take our bradawl and we position it onto the board to start a hole
take our pozi drive screw drop it into the hole that we've already started
and we'll tighten up one of them onto the wooden board three quarter inch screws won't
go through the board take our other one take our bradawl start the position of our hole
into the wood and then we go again with a pozi screw we get it down we need to make sure that
it's the distance that we discussed between our boxes and that we're level at the top
this is all about using first time we've used a bradawl and we're screwing the box down correctly
onto a wooden surface using counter sunk screws but only after we've cut out correctly a hole in
the top surface in order that we reduce the need to fill the gap with a silicon sealant by making
a lot tighter hole in the top so here we have a completed installation with the cable entering the
top of the electrical enclosure and we can see the electrical contractor in this case me at college
i have reinstated the IP rating by putting on a white silicon sealant it could have been clear
and we can see by entering an object on the top surface i cannot get it in there in this
case this is a piece of stripped uh cable okay so i can't get in the top electrical enclosure
therefore i've returned the IP rate into at least IP4X objects exceeding one millimetre
cannot enter the top of this electrical enclosure i hope this has been some help