hi I'm Paul Brodie I'm here with Mitch he's behind the camera and this is my shop welcome
our project today is a little bit different I have a Rocky Mountain frame it has a dent
in the top - can you see that not a huge debt but it's definitely it's significant we're gonna take
out the dead we're gonna make a tool to help with that it's called a frame block so this is an old
old frame block and you can see that it's been well used this was this was back in the days of
Brodie bikes it's got a piece missing out of it and if you look you can see an indent I think
what happened was someone held a frame on the downtube and that's where the water bottle went
they obviously weren't being careful then they clamped it and then they moved the frame and it
ripped off the wood so I'm just gonna grab out of the mill here all these frame blocks
here have been used at the University out in frame building 101 and this is how I started
out this is hardwood I don't know what kind of wood it is but I've started this this was ages
ago about a decade ago and I'm gonna hold this in the mill we're gonna use a boring bar to open
up the hole to the right size inch and a quarter this is a boring bar you've got a dial here you
use an Allen screw it incrementally moves out the tool I'm gonna cut some cardboard all I've
have had two pieces of cardboard here and here what that does is to space it apart very very
slightly I cut the hole to inch and a quarter then when I take out the cardboard that allows
when you put the put the blocks and device it allows you to clamp the tube what's nice about
the blocks is that you could hold it as hard as you want in the vise and it won't squeeze
the tube it'll squeeze the tube but it won't squash the tube let's go to the mill I've got
my cardboard cut I got a piece of 1/4 inch flat bar here so I'm going to put that down because I
don't want this to rest on the bottom of the vise because otherwise when the tool comes down it gets
to the end it can hit the vise so if I space it up 1/4 inch that should be good and then I take
out the bar boring bar in so it's obviously way too big so what I have to do now is to grab an
allen wrench and I can bring that in about 1/8 inch cut that should be good just to start with
so looking at this I've got 76,000 take off so I got 10 thought to the
zero so go to the zero and then if I call 66th ow that's my 76
okay so we're out Hobbit out on the wooden block that's perfect
check out the cardboard those are the blocks so what I need to do now is to
go off to the belt sander take a little file take off the sharp edges and put a
hinge on and then we have wooden blocks then we can work on the frame okay we'll
go outside and we use the belt Santa and we'll just round off the corners to make it
I got a piece of leather here and I'm gonna walk it out line cut that out mock some holes attach
it so one frame block last thing to do is to mark the sides on it so inch in the quarter so
now we can work on the frame and the first thing I'm gonna do is scrape off some paint
it's got a small dent on this side too so hit a few times if a tube gets hit it obviously
gets an indent but here right there it's also raised up a little bit too so that has to come
down we'll work on that I was just thinking I worked at Rocky Mountain from 84 to 86 and
Derek Bailey was there I was working alongside him and he's the guy that showed me how to do
this so we'll take the frame block now and we'll put it right on the dent like that
so I haven't clamped it super tight now but what I'm gonna do is to move the frame back and forth
so it looks like it's come out a little bit take a ruler just see what's up okay you can see that see
how there's a high spot there I think what I might want to do because I can't squeeze any tighter
is to heat that up a little bit and take a Barney hammer and just tap it down just a tiny little bit
I'm putting flux on there now I'm gonna heat it up a little bit and do a little bit of a tap on the
two high school okay a little bit of a rock there so that's that's the high spot right there you got
the torch a few inches away I don't want I don't want hot hot heat on there just want a little bit
and you'll also notice I'm not hitting straight down I'm hitting a glancing blow right up right
up on top it's huh I think what happened is it got a dent right on the other side as well
there we go that's better it's not rocking now so carefully I'm gonna fill in the dent and you have
to be careful because I think the butt of the tube the top tube probably ends right here so
I'm on the thin wall section here so I don't I do not want to overheat so I'm holding the
torch along the tube and I'm not holding it down like that that would put too much heat
on the tube that's why I'm holding it at the angle that it is so nice and easy just melts
a little bit in there and I got to put a little extra on because I got to file it
so I'm going outside where the dental is just a little bit maybe sixteenth of an inch if you
don't put enough on then you have to go back and do it all over again which is not the best thing
for the tube you just want to do one heat cycle not two or three try to make it nice and smooth
I think that's good I'm gonna take a felt pen and now I'm gonna mark where the dentist because
once the flux goes on and you start to heat it up on a really small dent it's hard to see but
the felt pen it stays on even with the heat and the flux so that's a little dip I wasn't
gonna fix that dent but Mitch thinks I should so there we go start to melt now wicked round
here we go it turned out nice easy to fill a small dent and a really big one so I want
to go along I don't want to do that that's not good coz I can make a gouge all just
want to go along so let's see what happens on the other side this will be interesting
so what I'm seeing here is that I guess the dent went a lot farther than I suspected so
I see the rule of touching from here to here and then it's actually low from here to here so the
two probably also has a little bit of a bend as well not only a dent to defend so we'll just see
what happens here I'll do some more filing maybe we'll add some more braze I'm not sure right now
okay so it's back to the brazing and I'm gonna have to add quite a bit more
I'll outline it so that I can see it when I'm brazing okay little flux and
we'll do brazing again okay so round two second heat cycle I didn't really
want to do the second one but obviously we need some more more metal more bronze
okay we'll try that
so the dentist basically filled in there's a couple tiny little marks there that every
frame every frame bill that needs a good painter and if a painter uses
high fill primer it'll fill those in so I'm gonna say that's pretty good I'm gonna grab
my belt sander do a little got the belt sander 80 grit 80 grit belt 1/4 inch wide
so you don't want to hold it at a right angle and you always want to hold it at
a 45 or more and if I press down can you see how the belt flexes so that's what I
want to do because as the belt flexes it's sanding more around the tooth here we go
so what the belt does it takes out all of the file marks and then after that 80 grit
Emery cloth so back and forth there do a soft hat so that's all done off
to the painter hope you enjoyed watching that see you next week