Pattern Cutting The New Series - Part 2
In Part 1 we drafted the Back Bodice
Now we turn our attention to drafting the Front
The Bodice Front
The Bodice Front is drafted side by side with the Back
and shares important construction lines
Here again are the measurements I am using for this draft
The Front Neckline
From the Centre Front Line measure the Neck Width along the Top Line
This is again the Bust measurement divided by 8, plus 3cm and then halved
but this time we deduct 0.5cm
Making the Front Neck Width 0.5cm less than the back neck width
helps the neckline to sit correctly
Label this point the Front Neck Point
From the Top Line measure down the CF 7.5cm and label Base of Neck Point
This measurement can be 7cm for smaller sizes or up to 8.5cm for larger sizes
The Neck Curve
Square down from Neck Point and across from Base of Neck
and then draw a guide line of 45º from the angle and mark off 3cm
Draw the neckline curve through the points
The Front Shoulder
For all sizes, measure along the Top Line 16.5cm from Centre Front and square down 4.5cm
Draw the Shoulder from the Front Neck point through the point just drafted and extend beyond
This is a provisional shoulder seam
The Bust Dart Position
Measure out from the Centre Front ¼ Chest Width
and draw a guide line parallel to CF up to meet the Shoulder seam
and down to 2.5cm below the Bust Line
This will be the point of the bust dart
The Bust Dart
Where this line meets the shoulder measure 2cm to the left along the shoulder
Mark this point and draw a dart line from there to the Bust Dart Point
Measure a dart width of 6cm along the shoulder and draw the other dart line to meet the bust dart point
Bust Dart Variations
Dart width varies from 5.5cm in small sizes and up to 10cm for the larger sizes
but also depends on the fullness of the bust
I am drafting for a small bosom
Refer to my Table of Average Measurements
It is FREE and is available on my site Check the Info Button
This is a variation that you may need to fine tune at a later stage
The Front Shoulder Point
With the dart drawn in mark off the shoulder measurement
plus the dart width to find the Front Shoulder Point
The Chest Line
Measure the distance from the Base of the Neck to the Bust Line
Divide this by 3 and measure that distance up from the Bust Line
Square across and label it the Chest Line
The Front Chest Point
Measure along the Chest Line ½ x Chest Width plus the width of the dart at this level
and mark the point as the Front Chest Point
The Front Underarm Point
Calculate half the bust measurement plus 5cm
Subtract the bust measurement already drafted on the Back
Use the result to measure along the Front Bust Line from CF
and label the Front Underarm Point
This will give you 10cm for bust ease overall
This can be increased or reduced just a little for xLarge and xSmall sizes respectively
Sleeveless garments may require less ease
Plot the Armhole Curve
Draw a guide line joining Front Shoulder Point and Front Chest Point
Halfway along square out a line 1cm in length towards CF
This is a guide for the armhole curve
Square down from the Front Chest Point to the Bust Line
Draw a 45º line from the angle
Mark a point 1.5cm along or up to 2.5cm for larger sizes
This is a guide for the lower part of the armhole
Draw the armhole curve
Join all points with a smooth curving line
Take the curve a little below the Bust Line before it joins the Under Arm Point
Find the Hip Point
Calculate ¼ hip measurement plus 3cm
and use this to find the Front Hip Point measured from CF along the Hip Line
Join Front Underarm Point and Front Hip Point
with a straight guide line for the provisional side seam
The True Bust Line
Draw the True Bust Line 4cm below the Bust Line
and square across to CB
and Mark on it the Bust Point inline with the Bust Dart
Finishing the block is next in Part 3
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Continue to Episode 3 and Thank you for watching this series