G'day Brett here A common problem with Defender's is the roof
leaks. This is caused by cracking in the caulking compound used during manufacture in the rain
gutters and the sealant used to join all the different pieces of aluminium together which
form the roof. The sealant tends to wear out over time crack
and allow water to filter in through the cracks back along these channels into the side channel
and then when you brake at a light for instance all the water will run down and get on to
your feet which is really annoying especially in winter.
Over the last 11 years I've tried many times to seal the roof with some success. In the
past I've used silicon which is generally not advisable because of the acetic acid curing
which can damage paintwork and cause rust. But this time I'm trying Sikaflex 291 marine
adhesive sealant. So hopefully this will be the winner.
Now I washed the roof twice yesterday as well as using some cut and polish along the seams
just to remove any flaking paint and grime. And then followed up with some methylated
spirits to degrease the area to prep it ready for the Sikaflex.
I also have some sandpaper which I'm going to do a light sanding in along the rain gutters
just to tidy it up. Now this is a fairly messy job from past experience
so you'll need some gloves and some mineral turpentine and some rags to help clean up
any excess. I tend to use fingers to get it in to the
rain gutters as there's not many tools that will fit the particular curvature of the gutter.
So let's have a go with some Sikaflex at sealing up these Defender roof leaks.
There are 3 seams on the roof to complete. First I run a rough bead along working the
Sikaflex deep in to the gaps that's then followed up with a rag soaked with mineral turpentine.
Next I run masking tape around the outside of the gutters and then begin working the
Sikaflex deep in to all the cracks. I do it in small 30 cm sections as the Sikaflex
tends to tack off fairly quickly. I then add extra Sikaflex back and forth just to layer
it up and then run my finger straight down that helps smooth everything out nicely.
It's important to clean it up as you go just so it doesn't harden off. Also remove the
masking tape before it begins to tack off just so you're not damaging or ripping up
the Sikaflex as you go.
On the rear there's the seam as well that's much the same process. Just do it in sections
and clean up as you go. I also chose to fill in the pop rivets just in case water was getting
in through there as well.
The compound from the A pillars was cracking so I dug that out and refilled.
Ok two weeks and a haircut and shave later and I've allowed the Sikaflex to cure off
that takes around a week to get a full cure. In that time I had a few rain showers come
through and I had no leaks come inside so it appears to be a success.
One thing I noticed about the Sikaflex is it does tend to attract dust so the channels
are kind of dusty dirty looking but to me that's not really an issue as it's up inside
and you don't see it. I did a light sanding in a few places just
to smooth it out a bit better but I see no point in breaking the skin and disturbing
it much it's quite nice looking. So if you're interested in doing your own sealing I suggest
you do an online search for the Land Rover Defender Water Ingress Manual. I N G R E S
S. That's the official publication which teaches you how to find all the parts and seal them
up and stop leaks coming in to your vehicle. If you've had success with another product
perhaps please write them in the comments below just to start a resource for others
to follow. Otherwise I'm very happy with the job. Hopefully it will last the next several
years. Thanks for watching.
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