Hey guys,
Looks at this… nice eh?
It was sent to me by the owner of this website, along with a few others, completely free with
no strings attached. I think his hope was that I’d show his wares on my Channel and
he’d get free advertising - and you know what, I’m happy with that and I’ll tell
you why. Firstly, this is really nice. It’s stainless steel and very cheap… and that’s
not a bad thing. We can’t all afford precious metals and wearing something cool looking
now and then is always nice… so do check out the website.
Secondly, I thought it would be a great opportunity for me to try and improve on my casting. I
thought I’d used these real examples and try a make my own similar versions – not
the same as that would be copying – but similar.
Fortunately I’d already had a bash at designing a signet ring in Fusion 360 and whilst it’s
a circular top rather than oval, it was a good starting point.
I was quite pleased with the design but decided to do a test print prior to casting.
For me things looked a little too cramped together. So I went back and tinkered just
a little, before coming up with a second test print.
Not too bad… fairly similar.
I think for the past two or three videos now I’ve been using a certain castable resin,
and it’s this, Powercast Wax. It’s made by the same guys who make Powercast Burn which
I’ve already reviewed (and thoroughly loved). It’s is often used for jewellery casting
and most specifically for models with stone settings.
Just as with the Burn, this isn’t cheap stuff, coming in a little more expensive at
US $120 for 250ml
Again there’s no odour and again there’s no need for post printing UV light.
Lacking any data, I went with the same settings as before on my Elegoo Mars and they have
not let me down. Just just like before, priming the build plate is essential – Power Resins
even say so on the bottle.
Now before I showed a technique involving a brush, a few coats and a few soaks under
a UV lamp, and me being me that didn’t take long to become old.
So I decided on an easier method – printing a prime coat. You simply print a prime coat
then immediately afterwards print your main file.
The coat is the size of the plate and it’s 0.2mm in thickness. It’s printed in 4 layers.
With nothing formal to go on, I just doubled the bottom layer time and gave it a bash.
And it works perfectly.
Some might hate the idea. Some might think it’s wasteful… well even at these prices
a prime coat only costs a few pennies and it’s much less wasteful than a failed print.
It works for me, but you do what makes you happiest.
My theory is that the primer coat doesn’t stick – it sucks itself into place. It seems
to be held by vacuum, because whilst it stays put, it’s really easy to remove… really
easy.
Again look at the quality of these prints.
I did an AmerLabs test print with the Powercast Wax and that came out great too, though it
might be a bit dusty.
Cutting this castable resin is easy and once again it sands and files beautifully, making
clean up very simple. Despite its name, it doesn’t have a waxy feel or texture.
You’ll notice I included sprues within my print design… again it’s just a preference.
I find it makes things much easier.
When it came to metal, look at this. This massive beast is Silicone Bronze and it’s
the first ingot I’ve ever bought. I’ve wanted to try proper foundry grade metal for
a while now and whilst Silicone Bronze might not normally be used for jewellery, it apparently
flows nicely.
Well, if I hadn’t cocked up the camera position, you would have seen that it does flow nicely.
Oooo… it goes darker when it casts. Must be oxidisation.
After a bit of a clean, it doesn’t look too bad. The Powercast Wax has done its job
well.
Errrr… I’m not very good with this jewellery saw. I’ve broken every blade I’ve got
- so it looks like I’ll clean up just the one ring.
Well that’s not looking too bad. It’s not perfect, but for a complete amateur just
having a go I don’t think I can grumble too much. It’s my first time with this metal
and the casting flask I used is a pain for shedding bits when it’s hot, but things
could have been a lot worse.
The Powercast Wax has done a fabulous job and I’ll be honest, I prefer this to the
Powercast Burn. I think the opaque colouring makes it easier to see what’s going on.
It’s prints wonderfully, retains that detail and clearly casts well as experience to date
has shown me.
Now it is pricey BUT after I asked them nicely and promised not to turn up at any of their
office parties, Power Resins have offered some very nice discount codes which I’ve
detailed below. I can’t promise how long these will last, but at this price any saving
is a bonus and believe me this is great castable resin.
So did I do what I set out to do? Did I make a similar signet ring? Well if I’m being
honest, I’m quite pleased. I think the original is better detailed and better finished. Being
stainless steel it won’t tarnish as quickly as my silicone bronze ring. But all in all
I’m content. I think I’ve managed to show that an ordinary guy with largely home made
equipment, a resin printer, castable resin and a desire to have a go can actually make
a fairly nice ring at home. Though I admit, buying one would be much easier.
I hope you enjoyed this one. Take care guys, and thanks for watching.