Welcome back to part 3 of how to install a bike from scratch.
With the handlebars installed in part 2 now we're ready to install the brakes.
And I prefer to do that before I move on to the drivetrain.
For both these bikes, the Kona and the Norco
I'm gonna install the Shimano Deore XT brakes.
These are the new M8000s.
I prefer the Shimano brakes because of their reliability and ease of use.
They are made in Japan and they use what's called the Servo Wave,
iSpec2 allows you to connect the shifter to them
and these are brakes for cross-country, trail and all-mountain.
as you can see it's specified here.
This is what's called the post mount
and if you had an older frame that might come with what's called the I.S. system
this is an adapter from that older standard to a post mount.
And usually the frame manufacturer will specify clearly the minimum size disc
that can be installed on the frame.
In my case is 160 mm so I can install the caliper right here with no other adapters.
The provided mounting bolts are for situations where
you just install the caliper directly onto the frame
with no other adapter.
Make sure you center the caliper to the disc
and then use a 5 mm Allen key just to tighten up the bolts.
I have a few videos talking about the Shimano brakes in detail
so I'm not gonna cover that here but make sure you follow those links in the description.
As you're running the brake hose by the frame, especially if you have a full suspension
make sure you put some protective tape right here because otherwise that paint
is gonna rub off rather quickly.
Run the brake hose all along the frame.
Do the same with the front brake and you see the hose running nicely here
you have usually one of these clips that keeps it attached to the fork and run
the hose on the inside of that lower leg and is going to bring
your caliper right here where
my fork has 160 mm post mounts.
Well because my disc is 180 mm
I'm gonna have to install that caliper on top of this adapter.
Now the adapters are provided by the brake manufacturers for specific rotor sizes
This is the Shimano one for 180mm
and the code you can see it right there on screen.
Also you're gonna need these longer screws
and look at the length of those and look at what's provided.
Next I would install the brake levers and would prefer to do that
with the bike on the ground.
This is also the time to shorten the hoses or reverse them if you have to.
I've already done that for the Norco, follow the link on the screen
for all the details on how to do it.
One last thing before we move on,
Many people don't realize that for brake calipers that have this banjo
you can actually loosen up that bolt so you orient the hose whichever way you want it.
And you see here on the Norco the extreme angle that was needed for the rear brake hose.
And that brings us to the drivetrain.
Both of these bikes are getting theShimano Deore XT shifters and rear derailleurs.
This is an XT GS or medium cage 11 speed same with a shifter
The chains that I'm using are gonna be SRAM
so Kona's getting the 11 speed, Norco's getting the 12 speed GX
The cranks that I'm using - one is Race Face for the Kona 24 mm axle
and a SRAM 30 mm axle and carbon for the Norco.
So as you can see mixing and matching
is really possible when it comes to the drivetrain.
And I have a lot of these products
covered in different videos, installation videos, detailed ones.
I'm gonna post them all up and just provide highlights and tips and tricks in this video.
First thing I would install the shifter and you can see my 11 speed XT here.
I'm using what's called the iSpec-2 in which
the shifter is attached to the brake lever bar clamp.
You can have a discret one, you see a SRAM shifter here
attached with the bar clamp.
The equivalent of iSpec for SRAM
is called Matchmaker. Also there are third-party manufacturers that
would allow you to actually connect the SRAM to a Shimano and vice versa.
The mounting bolts here, put a tiny bit of Loctite on them
just so it doesn't come loose from vibration.
Obviously if you install a front shifter this is the
time to do it, and on the handlebar usually install the shifter bar clamp first
then the brake lever bar clamp.
Use your grip again as a guide
for your lever position because next you're going to have to trim this shifter housing
to the right length.
Just like we did for the brake hose, imagine that worst-case
scenario with your handlebars turned all the way and you want to make sure you
still have a kind of loose cable housing over there and not too too tight.
And then cut it to the appropriate length.
If you have a good pair of side cutters
you can use that to trim the housing but this is one of those we're having even a
cheaper cable and housing cutter, a dedicated one, would be a good idea.
Here we go!
And then you gonna make sure that is nice and round
and finish the job with a cable housing end or ferrule.
Next we're going to install the rear derailleur.
The rear derailleur gets installed on to the
rear derailleur hanger which is specific to each bike
and it's paramount to have it nice and straight.
Also make sure that those retaining bolts are nice and tight
and not loose because otherwise your derailleur is gonna start to wobble.
If the frame manufacturer specifies direct mount rear derailleur
you have to modify this derailleur to make it work
and I have a video about that.
This is a standard mount and all you need to do in case of this
Shimano derailleur is grab a 5 mm Allen key, look at that bolt
over here and put a bit of grease on it
and I want to draw your attention to this
little tab here that's gonna mate what Shimano calls the fork being that other
tab on the derailleur hanger.
These two have to touch so in order to make sure of that
just start threading this in.
As you get it really close like here
push down on it making sure that there is contact between the two, and tighten this up.
This is 8 to 10 Nm as per Shimano.
And now you're able to measure the other end of your cable housing.
Make sure you don't have a sharp bend on the housing
and don't leave this too too long because it's gonna stick out too
far from the frame and get ripped off.
Don't forget that cable and or ferrule
Here we go.
And at this point you're ready to adjust
the High and the Low limiter screws.
Have to remind you that I have all this covered
in a full M8000 installation video.
But in a nutshell the High limiter screw is taking care
of the alignment of this jockey with your high gear which is the smallest cog.
And then L or Low limiter screw takes care of the alignment of the
same jockey with your biggest cog.
Turn this barrel adjuster clockwise until it stops
and then undo it a full two turns.
And you're ready to push that inner cable into the housing .
Ensure that the shifter is on the last gear here
then put a bit of tension on the cable and tighten it up.
Next I'm going to install the cranks
the Race Face will go on to the Kona and the X01on the Norco.
Just make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions
on how to do it for each type.
Because the installation is fairly specific I am going
to do separate videos and put up the links for them.
For the Race Face
just fitting the non-drive side (ND)
then the drive side (D)
goes on to that spline
and tighten up this bolt to anywhere between 50 and 60 Nm.
At the end of the installation always pull on the cranks a little bit, make sure that there
is no site-to-site play.
Also spin them, see if they move freely.
It's normal for newly installed cranks
to be a bit stiff they will loosen up after a few rides.
Also at this step, if you have a front derailleur this would be the time to install it.
Next is the chain and for this you're definitely going to need
a chain tool whether there's the cheap one or the more expensive it doesn't really matter.
They do the job just as fine.
Chain comes coated in a sticky oil so
you might want to use a pair of gloves.
Also a piece of wire might be useful in this procedure.
Highly recommend using Quick links, Power Locks because they're
gonna make your life easier.
And yes I have a full video on how to do this but
in a nutshell put your chain on the biggest chainring then go to the largest cog.
Do not route it through the rear mech yet.
This is where you use that piece of wire
to get the two ends together.
Because you want to measure the chain to be...
End-to-end would be here, and I'm gonna leave
an extra one, two links for this hardtail.
Because I need the Quick Link here I'm gonna include that third.
Once cut to the proper length, you run the chain through your rear derailleur
and make sure that it doesn't touch that little tab over there.
That is the correct routing.
You would do this with the clutch disengaged or,
in case of SRAM, with the cage locked in the locked position
Finally make sure that your Power Lock or Quick Link it's fully engaged.
Time to be excited because it is the first time you can actually
spin the rear wheel just by turn the cranks, look at that!
If you've done everything right, at this point the chain should stay on that 11 or 12 gear or 10 gear
and it's time to make the final adjustments for your shifting.
First off double check that the top pulley is perfectly aligned with this first cog.
If not use that High limiter screw to adjust it.
Then start shifting and pay attention
to noises of chain rubbing against metal.
And I can hear it already
This means that my Guide pulley, which is the top one is just pushing the chain
against the bigger cog over here, that's what causes the noise.
We want to move that Guide pulley a bit towards the smaller cog
so I'm gonna rotate the barrel adjuster clockwise about half a turn.
In case you're having trouble
shifting to bigger cogs, just go to that barrel adjuster and turn it counterclockwise.
It means you have too much slack here on the shifter cable.
If you're having trouble getting on that biggest cog it might mean that your
derailleur is too close to the cassette and you see that over there.
In order to adjust it you're gonna use what's called the B-screw or the B-gap adjustment screw.
As you turn this clockwise, look at that Guide pulley
how's being pushed away from the cassette.
And you want to give it enough to clear the cassette
over here, you don't want to give it too much because then you're gonna start
having trouble shifting down here on the smallest cogs
This is pretty important, Shimano specifies about 5-6 mm here
between the top jockey and the biggest cog.
SRAM even has a template for
their Eagle just to make sure you get that right.
Very last thing, double-check
that your Low limiter screw is properly adjusted, trim that inner cable and
attach a cable end, colorful if you have.
And if you use Shimano, engage the lever clutch.
While you pop that beer open give it a try through all the gears.
Look at this, beautiful!
And believe it or not we're done with the drivetrain, congratulations!!!
You've done a great job!
Time to move on to pretty much the finishing touches for this bike
but I'm gonna cover that in part 4 of the video.
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If you like this, don't forget to like the video.
I'm gonna put a lot of details
in the description, check them out.
And until next time I will see you folks on the trails.
Cheers guys, cheers!