so we're going to continue on the series of videos using the 2 plate method a method where
you take the feed to the switch on a lighting circuit and the reason behind this it reduces
the number of cables at the lighting point and we saw in another video how the benefit
of having less cables at the lighting point makes it easier to connect things like LED
downlights and we use the easy-fit connectors from Collingwood in this video we're going
to convert it from a one-way circuit to two-way by introducing a three core cable between
the first switch and the second switch changing this one-way switch for a two-way switch and
adding in a second 2 way switch so we have controlled from two positions the LED downlights
in this circuit so i understand in the real world this three core cable that we're going
to connect between our switches is you're not going to take this very short journey
between these two two-way switches and we're actually going to be bringing cables into
the fabric of the building we'll be chasing into walls possibly lifting floors or running
them through roof spaces in order to get the cable which is a 3 core and CPC between the
new two-way switch replacing a one-way switch to the new position 2 way switch to have two-way
control of the lighting circuit so in this video presentation i'm gonna put this cable
in i'm going to show you the connections in the 2 two-way switches so let's bring the
camera in nice and close and see how i'm going to make the connections not in a one-way switch
now but in two 2 way switches is in order to control these LED downloads so we've got
original one-way switch here and our connections are using the two plate method so in neutrals
in a maintenance-free connector blocks the CPC's secured in the back of the insulated
box in case we have to change it for a metal exposed conductive path and we've got our
common and L1 connections here common being the permanent line and switching line going
out of L1 we're going to replace this with a two-way switch okay that's one gang exactly
the same as this one one gang but two-way so we've got common L1 and L2 at the top so
I'm going to replace those we've added in a three core cable okay it's coming no distance
here we can see between these as we said before this would normally be under floors in ceilings
in walls etc and introduced this however the connections in here are identical in the real
world it's just the effort to put this cable in will be different so I've stripped it back
ready to go and I'm running approximately 50 to 70 mm longer than the box we've gone
past the box so I just trim those back and they're going to need to get rid of one conductor
first I'm gonna get rid of the CPC first and then we'll talk about the other conductors
afterwards so moving these conductors out of the way we're going to connect our CPC
into the earthing terminal at the back hear kick it round so it's of reasonable length
in case we change it to an exposed conductive part in the future and then we'll double it
over and see if it will go into the actual termination itself I've been struggling recently
with some breathing issues it sounds a bit like I'm a breath [ __ ] I just run a marathon
essentially and I'm struggling at the minute apologize for that so the CPC terminal CPC
goes in the terminal in the back of the box hopefully can go doubled over and it can and
it's secured there in case we need it in the future for an exposed conductive part I've
done some videos on the channel about metallic switches and exposed conductive parts we want
to check those out do so so we can take of our one way switch so I'm going to remove
my 1 way switch and I'm going to replace it with our two-way switch so we have two switches
controlling the LED downlights and this exercise like so and for me I always used black as
common I know an industry often we use brown but I use black as common I do need to identify
it as a switching line conductor so we take some brown over sleeving place it over the
top and that's going to be my common connection again if you use a different colour that's
not a problem but I use black stripping it off and use my knife I know people use side
cutters pliers or wire strippers I don't here at college currently take my pliers and we'll
double that one over to go into my terminal and I said that's going to go in the common
terminal
alright so pop that one tighten it up and we've just got the other connections now to
look at for me as I can see it I can see that that one there is my permanent line coming
in and this was my switching line going out so I like to do with the other colours is
I'd like to keep the permanent line with brown so they're going to go together and it doesn't
matter where they go in L1 or L2 doesn't matter which but they're going to go together I don't
in my grey and I'm going to go with my switching line conductor it wouldn't have mad if I took
my grey and I've gone in with my permanent line down here and my switching along with
my brown but I like to keep the permanent line and the brown of the three core together
in one terminal that's what I like to do again we need to identify the grey as a switching
line conductor with brown over sleeving and I'm going to need to double all these ends
over so let's do that quickly
double your terminations over I like to fill the hole as best I can I'm sure there's a
joke in there somewhere but we're not going to say it so I want to put as much as I can
in so I'm going to double over my terminations I don't like these plyers I slip all the time
okay there we go that one and this one okay so I've doubled over my terminations I'm gonna
take my brown now and I'm gonna connect it to my which would have been my permanent line
connection and it doesn't matter whether I go in L1 or L2 just happens to be its L1 but
it doesn't matter I'm gonna pop those two into there and then tighten those up became
the one thing I never seem to do in any of my videos is wear my glasses so using the
force in order to get them in there so connect those up so that's those two leaving me the
grey in either L1 or L2 it doesn't matter identified with browns sleeving going into
the other one
back that back a little bit and we'll pop those two in there like so so just pop those
in into there and we'll tighten those down and have a look those connections again okay
so one gang this time it's two-way I turn it over I've got a black common identified
with brown sleeving I've got the permanent line with the brown one of the three core
for switching along with the grey of the three core identified with brown sleeving and I've
completed my first two way switch by simply adding a three core in from my original position
which had a one way switch I've changed that one way switch now for two ways which I know
will have multiple control from two positions of my LED downlights let's look at the second
switch so at the second position which is our new switching position which will also
have a two way switch so again common L1 and L2 and again exactly the same as we did before
just keep the conductors commons the same so we're just going to make sure these are
longer than we need the box so 50 to 70 mm longer than the box which is about there and
I'm going to double those over brown sleeving is required for my grey and black as before
so if I put those on now I won't forget them during the presentation so you can pick me
up on it so drop those on and we're going to put the black in common it's the only crucial
one out of the live conductors is the black we're going to keep exactly the same as it
was in the first switch and it's going to go into common and then we'll connect up other
two conductors so black into common so come on and tighten that one up black goes into
common leaving us L1 and L2 doesn't matter which way around they go we haven't got to
get it exactly the same as the first one so if grey is in L2 here it doesn't matter if
grey goes in L1 hear likewise with the brown in reverse it's only crucial that we get the
black common identified by brown sleeving sorry the black conductor in the common identified
with browns sleeving that's the crucial one here we can pop in the CPC why we at it as
well so fold those out the way let's put the CPC in again insulated box is there in the
future in case it's changed to an exposed conductive apart
i truly have got to get my glasses on at some point I am struggling I hope your trainings
going well I thank you and appreciate all the views everybody gives me on the channel
and all the support so this is trying to mimic what's really happening in the real world
in domestic dwellings where there's loads of downlights well we've got the 2 plate method
being used and that 2 plate method now has been adapted for two ways switching okay so
let's do these two now as well so again like I said it doesn't matter which one's L1 and
L2 as always like black is identified appropriately and goes in common
take a conductor and again I'm not bothered don't care which ones which I'm just going
to pop those in L1 and L2 some people might say well I always like to keep knew exactly
the same that's good that's good I don't mind that for working purposes it won't matter
which one you go in identified the grey conductor again with browns sleeving and then we've
got a second two-way switch which would be our new one on new position maybe you want
a second switch in a bedroom etc all you had to do introduce a three core from your original
switching position change that switch or one-way switch to a two-way and connect to your second
two-way switch I use black is common you might use brown but i used black L1 and L2 don't
matter which way round they go here as long as we split them appropriately as we suggested
in the first part of the video so an out breath Gaz has just shown you how to change a one-way
circuit using the 2 plate method into a two-way circuit so we still got the feed coming down
to our switch and from this first switch are switching line and CPC and neutral going out
to our LED downlights we decided we want to add another switch maybe in a bedroom or a
kitchen to control the same lights we replace the one way switch here with a two way switch
we introduced a three core in CPC cable here and then we put another brand new two-way
switch and this end crucial for me we keep the black as the comment identified with browns
sleeving we also identified with browns sleeving the grey conductor and we made the connections
in here we had the permanent line from the consumer unit coming in and connecting to
the brown of the three core and then we had the other brown conductor which is a switch
line out going to the grey of the three core again it didn't matter if they were the other
way around as long as we split those two original conductors across the new introduced three
core conductors of brown and grey and again for me we connect the common as black and
I know an industry often they use a different colour it doesn't matter as long as your connections
are in appropriately in the right position we are going to go on from this video and
look at testing continuity CPC polarity and insulation resistance when we've got two two
way switches on our 2 plate method with our LED downlight is in a future presentation
but for this one I hope this video has been some help
you