Okay, so I'm gonna do an unboxing of the Canon EF
16-35mm f4 L-series with Image Stabilization
and the Ultrasonic Motor.
So, I'm gonna unbox this and then I'm going to switch it
with the lens that we have on there now and you can see
a difference on that.
The lens on there now is a 24-105mm.
So, what have we got?
So, warranty card.
You get a one-year warranty,
I think, with Canon products, so...
Uh, this is one of those tote bags.
[plastic ruffling]
-[sniffing] -Yeah.
It smells like an old pencil case, you know?
With that, like, graphite smell when you were a kid
and you used to carry around your little pencil--
[inhaling]
Yeah. It's good.
[thumping]
Manual, I guess.
I don't really know what for.
[dopey voice] You put the lens on the camera,
and then it does it.
[normally] It's like, it's pretty well packed.
Guess it would have to be. Hood.
I wasn't sure, because not all the lenses come with hoods.
If you get an EF-S lens, like the Canon 10-22mm,
I think any of their, like, standard line,
like the white-ring lenses,
I don't think any of those come with hoods.
They only cost half as much as an L-series lens,
so I don’t really know if it’s worth all that for the hood,
but it’s nice that they include it on the premium products.
The lens is-- Or the hood is very shallow
because it's really wide, so obviously,
if you had a long hood it would be in the shot--
In the frame. And then...
Tada! The lens.
Ooh, look, look, look!
Bubble wrap.
[popping]
So that's it for the box.
So...
[plastic ruffling]
Here she blows.
It's got nice rings with the rubber grips on it.
It feels very, very similar to the other L-series lens
I have, but if you have never owned an L-series lens before,
they are really, really, really good.
If you're looking at getting a lens, and a good rule of thumb
that I read recently, that I liked,
was that you look first for the Canon L-series lens
that will fit your requirements.
So, in this case I wanted something wider, so 16-35mm is,
I think, a good size for what I wanted, but let's say
that you were looking for a 10-20mm.
Look and see if there's a Canon L-series lens that's 10-20,
if there is, if you can afford it, buy it.
It's that easy, because as soon as you start going
and you negotiating against itself, like maybe you look at
a standard, like, white-ring Canon lens, or you look at like
a Sigma third-party variant of it or whatever,
a lot of these lenses are great, a lot of them offer great bang
for the buck, but there's always gonna be trade-offs.
They're gonna have lower resolution towards the edges,
or they'll have, you know, everything image-wise is okay,
but the auto-focus engine; the auto focus
is a little bit slower,
it doesn't, you know, quite get there.
Or everything's really great, but it has a vignetting problem.
There's always going to be one, sort of, trade-off,
and you can wrack your brain on comparing, as I've done,
several times before when we've bought different products,
on, you know, well, what's worth it?
Should I-- Or for saving a $100 I can get, you know,
this lens, but it has, like, chromatic aberration problems,
but everything else is okay.
Or if I save $50, or for $50 more, you know, I can get rid
of the chromatic aberration problems and everything
is pretty good, but it doesn’t resolve in the corners
nearly as well and then maybe if I wanna do landscape shots,
then I-- If you get the L-series lens, that's the benchmark
to which the other ones are compared.
So, look for it. And maybe that one's on sale.
If it is, that's the one to get, and you don't even worry
about the other ones, because now you're set.
And yeah, like I said, it gives a one-year warranty.
But if you treat high-end glass well,
it'll last you for as long as you need it to.
So, it basically comes down to that.
And high-end lenses too, like I said, they have hoods
for protection, they're usually weather-sealed.
They have better components, so you don't have to worry
about wearing the rings out. One of the differences
between a high-end lens and a lower-end lens
is that when we change focal lengths here,
from say, 35 to 16 and back, the action is smooth,
and you'll notice that all the moving parts
are contained within the lens.
So, there's no barrel coming out slowly from this, like,
where you see that section-- I can't show you,
but I'll show it to you when I switch lenses.
And, so, everything's internal, which means that all
the glass is moving parts on the inside,
it all has to be designed, while on the inside all the movement
has to be great, like, watchmaking.
And that's one of the things that adds to it, where you
don't have to worry about this barrel shooting out like this,
which can get warped if you use it or it could have sag
and then when you try to bring it back in,
it'll scrape and grind against the thing. Anyway...
Some people won't even take, buy lenses off you
if they turn it and the barrel comes in and it makes even
a little bit of noise, they think it's a write-off.
Because it means that it’s, like, worn out.
Anyway, good lenses don't have those things.
So, let's take a quick peek.
Put the hood on. Nice and easy.
The finish on Canon L-series lenses is always nice,
you just have a little bit of a button,
so you know when you're in, you don’t have to worry
about, like, screwing it in, threading it right.
It just snaps in.
Press the button, turn it, comes off.
It's really, really smooth.
Anyway, so that’s the Canon 16-35 EF,
so you can use it on full frame.
Anyway, I’m gonna switch it now and show you a comparison,
so let's, kind of, get it like, framed up.
Okay, so I put the 16-35mm on.
The frame is significantly larger than it was before.
This is the one that was on, so this is the EF 24-105mm.
It's also an L-series.
Red ring is the indication of that.
Now, I don't want to take anything away from this lens,
this is a great lens, and as far as kit lenses go,
it's outstanding.
The only one that, maybe, would be better
is there's a 24-70mm f/2.8,
which is a great all-rounder lens,
but 24-105mm f/4 is pretty solid,
and it's really well made too,
but there are a couple shortcomings to where,
I would say, this is close
to maybe the entry-level L-series lens, and I think
that’s probably why they include it with the kits,
versus giving you really, really high-quality glass.
But the-- so without taking too much away from it,
the pitfalls would be that the, you know, the rings are great.
They're not quite as nice as the 16-35mm.
Mind you, these have a little bit of wear on them.
Secondly, is that hood thing that I was talking about.
This is the... it's fine, it's good,
but it's the other type, you gotta, like,
find the thread and line it up and everything,
and then try to like, screw it on like that.
There's no, like, sexy little button or anything.
Secondly, or lastly, whatever number I'm on,
it also has that, sort of, telescopic barrel thing
that I was talking about.
So, when it moves through focal lengths,
it has to extend the components like this.
Now, that's fine, and this one performs really well,
but you see how there's a bit of play in here?
There's not much play on this one, because it's well made.
The cheaper the lens, the more play you’re going to have
in here and that’s where you get the barrel sag
and whatever else. Plus, if something bad happens,
like you hit it, concussive effect on it in this way,
you can do some pretty serious damage to it.
So, those are some things that could be indications
of the quality of a lens.
They both have the stabilizer on/off and the AF/MF,
so autofocus/manual focus selector.
And, for the most part, they're pretty much the same
and this lens is fantastic.
I'm not saying anything about it.
The versatility that you get out of it,
being able to go from 24- 105mm is pretty fantastic.
Image quality-wise, compared to the one
that's on the camera now, I would say
the one on the camera is, maybe, a hair better,
like 5% better, but the image quality's great in this,
and it's pretty much the same in that one.
You'd have to step up to the next level, like a f/2.8
or something like that to increase your image quality.
Thanks for watching.