Hey everyone it's Dylan here and Charlie from the Black Forest Wood Company we're back again
for another week in the shop so this week we've got another buckeye table in front of me I showed
you guys this one and said it's coming we're going to show you the easier way and the harder
way to build a round table like this so that's all i'm going to say you guys will see it coming
up we've kind of showed something like this before but now this is going to be for a round
table we're also going to have everything time stamped in the description for you guys if you
want to skip ahead to a certain part and we've been getting lots of love from you
guys recently lots of likes comments a lot of new subscribers so i just want to say we really
really appreciate that and we're already at 105k so let's see how long it takes us to get to 200.
so with this method of making a round table, our moulds are octagonal so then we need to put them
on the CNC machine to actually cut them round only issue is that our CNC can't do the full
depth in a single cut so it's actually nine passes that we have to make to cut this thing
so it does take a little bit of extra time but the CNC just gives a really accurate really clean cut
so
so we've got our buckeye burl table all finished up
this is going to be used as a conversation table it's going in a car dealership for our client
now we're going to show you the easy way so the only reason i call this the hard way is because
there's a little bit more work that goes into building the mold and then after it comes out
of the mold you don't have a perfect circle so now i'm going to show you how to build a
perfectly circular mold it's completely reusable and well you actually don't even really have to
build the mold you guys will see okay so what we're going to do to start i've got this chunk
of black walnut here it's an offcut from another slab but it's got some nice character in it
obviously um the shape it is right now it's not going to fit in the mold i'll just kind of put it
on top here so you guys can see it's not going to fit in the mold right i've got to cut off
you know basically all of this to be able to get get it to fit in there perfectly so what i'm going
to go do first we're going to take it back there we're going to face join it and plane it to get
it to the right thickness than we want it then i'm going to show you guys how we actually use
the mold itself to trace out the round shape we need and then cut it around on the bandsaw
like i said first thing we're going to do we're going to head over to the jointer
this piece as you guys can see if you look here it's got a really big curve to it so you always
want to put your curved side down that way your piece of wood is going to touch on the two ends
as opposed to going like this this is going to want to rock and move while i face join
it so it's a lot more dangerous and it's not going to work as well
so always go like this with your curve down still a little wobbly but not quite as bad
so with our piece here what we've got we've got
this face is completely flat other than that little bit down there but that's okay and then
i also did this edge so i've got these at a 90 degree to to one another this and this and now
i have to get the piece flipped over and i need to plane it so i want to identify my high spot
just kind of by looking down the side of this my high spots basically right where this crack
is here that's the high point just going to use the calipers here i'll zero them out and i'll
measure my thickness in that spot so we're about 77 there another thing to keep in mind actually
i'm going to have to plane all the way down to this so we're going down to 60. we're taking
off almost 20 mils here so it's a pretty warped piece um but the plane will be able to do it so
i'm going to set this i'll go a little high just to be safe i'll probably set it right around 80.
we've got our piece flat enough now for what we want to do with it there's still a couple spots of
rough just on this back side but that's gonna be the bottom so i'm not really concerned about that
now what we're gonna do we're gonna go back over to our mold trace out our round shape
cut it round on the band saw and then i've got to get all this bark off before we do the pour
okay so now i'm just taking this round section of the mold this right here and yeah a pencil will do
now we actually want to lay out where we're going to be making uh
the cut here to to put in the mold so i'm going to go with our inside line here just so we're sure we
have enough room now we'll take this piece we'll go ahead over to our band saw and we'll just trim
out this kind of round shape here and hopefully it'll fit inside look cool eh yeah they're inside
that's all i could find all right i had no choice so we've got our band saw set
up we're using a laguna 18bx we sell these by the way um laguna though makes probably hands
down i would say some of the best band saws like we've got one here and we've got another laguna
band saw right over there their resaw master so we we kind of like them as you guys can see
but but this the 18 bx is really nice for just doing cuts like this so i've got my my guard
set not too much higher than my piece of wood and i'm just going to follow along and trace this out
so we can actually kind of just test it like this
but now we'll move on to debarking this and then we'll get our mould put together
all debarked now we've got basically everything we need to cleaned up and out of here the reason
we debark i went over this before but i'll go over it again for the new people
we debark so that the epoxy can form a proper bond uh to the actual piece of wood so if you
weren't to remove the bark and you would do your pour your epoxy would bond to the bark and then
over time your bark would separate so if you take it all off beforehand you don't have to worry
about that the wood is prepped so we've got it cut in the circular shape we've got it all debarked
and then i've got everything i need here right now to put my mold together so basically you need your
wood the mold um the clamp down blocks that came with your mold and a tube of silicone so i've got
all that right here and basically the first step that you want to do is you actually want to secure
down your outside piece here so we got a little hook here that's actually the open position we got
that little hook brings it shut you can just line everything up flush and then as you can imagine
that presses in here nicely and as long as you've got that bead of silicone on the on
the bottom there to squeeze in this should work perfect got this set up grab my tube of silicone
so then just take your tube silicone and again it doesn't have to be a big bead by any means
but you just want to make sure that you have silicone around that whole perimeter
and then there's also this little vertical piece here where they join so just do a little
bead along that go ahead and tool everything in and i'm just doing my little vertical bit here
before i put my pieces of wood in i'm just going to let this silicone cure up a little
bit just so it's um i'm not going to accidentally break my seal that i've created putting these in
so we'll come back in like 20-30 minutes put these in and then we should be able to clamp
everything down and do the pour so we're back it's been about half an hour since we did that
and now we can put our pieces in the mold still be careful when you're putting your pieces in because
you don't want to break that silicone that's there so just be gentle yeah so i wasn't quite
a hundred percent perfect as you guys can see my cut was probably just a little bit off i could
have went a little bit closer to the other side of the line but that's okay we can trim this round
afterwards um obviously if you guys were doing this and you didn't have a way to trim it round
afterwards you want to be really careful on this cut and make sure that you get it perfect
but like i said it's no big deal for us then you can take your hold down blocks so here are
here are the hold down bars that come with the mold you've got a bolt uh a wing nut and then
a washer there so the washer goes on top just to protect our our plastic and you can slide these in
depending on the thickness of your slab it's going to dictate which way you need to put your block
when i put it this way obviously it's a it's a little bit too short it's not going to reach
that bar and then when i put it this way it's actually a little too tall and i can't get my
my wing nut on so i'll show you guys a little trick here what you can do just go ahead and put
that in and obviously there's gaps all you're gonna need then to fix that is a couple wedges
okay and that should do that there so there's there's not a whole ton of pressure actually
holding these down just enough so the piece of wood isn't going to move and you're ready to go
you're ready to do your pour that's all you have to do put the epoxy in let it cure up and then you
guys will be able to see that this is going to demold really easily okay so it's been a couple
days the the weekend went by since we filmed with this and since then we've actually sold this piece
so this video is now going to become a two-part video uh in the first part we're still going to
show you you know obviously how to build the mold how to set it up do the pour but then
in the second part we're going to be turning this into our first ever resin clock so we're
casting the resin in obviously then we're going to drill out the center for the clock hardware
and then we're going to put this on our cnc machine and write in all of the different markings
for the different times and it should be kind of a fun project not something we've ever done before
but yeah next week you guys can expect to see part two of this the client has selected a tinted gray
resin so we'll calculate what we need here we'll add in our black dye you cannot see
the label at all really but it's color effects black dye and then we'll get it poured in there
okay another question we get all the time is how to reuse these buckets so this one's been used
it's got some cured epoxy in the bottom so all i'm going to do flip it over grab a mallet
there you go looking at this it actually kind of looks pretty close to about half
of the volume of this circle here so we need to figure out first the area
um so it's a 23 inch diameter so we'll go 11.5 squared
times
pi
it's 415 divided by 61 gives us 6.8 so we'll probably mix up about
nine litres here we might have a little bit extra we could do some coasters or something with that
okay so this next step here that we're going to do is optional but we're going to degas the
resin what this is going to do is help to remove a lot of the air bubbles that were caused by mixing
if you don't have a degassing chamber you just need to be more careful when you are mixing to
make sure that you don't introduce any air bubbles during that as long as you're using a good resin,
like our resin it should release a lot of the bubbles as it cures anyway
okay so we've got everything all mixed up here we'll get it poured in and we'll see
if we have any leftover the reason we pour on the wood as well that's another one we
get asked is just so we can create a little bit less bubbles as to just like dumping it right in
there so it's been two days now since we did the pour on uh on our round piece the easy way here uh
we would have got this piece poured a lot sooner so that we could actually demold it in this video
for you guys but since a client ended up buying it we had to wait for them to confirm their colour
so it's going to become a two-part video like i said earlier and then next week we're going
to pop this thing out of the mould we will cut it round probably using our CNC because she actually
wants it a little bit smaller than this and then we're going to show you how we install all of
the clock hardware and cut the numbers in so not something we've ever done before um still sticky
as I put my hands in it um but should be pretty cool to do one of these for the first time oh oh
anything else uh would you like to add anything else
I'm being snubbed oh okay well I hope you guys enjoyed seeing kind of our the way that we use
those round forms um we've got different sizes so we have the two smaller sizes
uh then what's missing here is the size that we just used in the video the 23-inch
and then we've also got different sizes of the square ones they're all listed here we don't
have them all out right now just because we're waiting for an order but the main difference
is these ones you don't have to put back together after but the round ones you do have to take apart
and put back together between each use but they're still super, super easy to use uh you guys can get
these on our website we've got free shipping over 300 uh in Canada in the US so take a look let us
know what you guys think and i think charlie wants to go outside so we'll catch you guys next week