A heavy trigger pull can ruin accuracy, let's see if we can reduce the trigger pull on this old
Rolling Block Pistol. This is a Remington Rolling Block Model 1871 Army Pistol. The trigger pull on
this gun exceeds the 12 pound limit on our Lyman trigger pull gauge. The NRA method to check the
trigger pull is to use weights, I finally got this trigger to break at about 16 and a quarter pounds.
I also have a Remington #7 target rifle, this gun has the same basic action and came from the
factory with an advertised trigger pull weight of two and a half pounds. I use a fired case
in the chamber to check the trigger pull. This rifle has a pull weight of 1 pound 2 ounces,
definitely a target type trigger. First I disassemble the pistol. The breech block
and hammer are removed, along with the grip, followed by the forend, and trigger guard.
This is the relationship between the hammer and the sear. Trigger pulls were
normally very heavy on military guns, this was achieved by the angle of the
sear notch on the hammer which is less on the military models than the #7 target. It's this
angled surface that contributes to the heavy trigger pull. I can alter the angle using a
Power Custom Series stoning fixture this is the professional tool designed specifically
for this purpose. I've adjusted the fixture so I can stone the sear notch to the desired
angle. With the hammer secured I applied dyken to the sear notch so I can watch the progress.
Using plenty of oil on the stone I run it along the guide which will ensure it stays
perfectly level. Short light strokes with the stone will cut the notch to the desired angle
and square it up. The final polishing of the sear surface is done with a 600 grit stone.
After reassembly, I test the trigger pull again using a fired case in the chamber.
Just a little over three pounds, sometimes you get lucky on the first try. All that remains
is to reharden the notch. Stoning the seer notch has removed all of the case hardening
and repeated use will damage the unhardened surface, Kasenit is used for this project.
Using a torch I heat the notch red-hot then dip the hammer in the Kasenit, heat
it red-hot again, and finally dunk it in water. Any remaining Kasenit is removed with a brush.
Since both the hammer and breech block have been previously polished,
which removed the original color, I'll also heat the breech block to give it the same
appearance as the hammer. After reassembly and the final check, it's off to the range.