today we're looking at s-plan wiring with the catchly titled wago 207-4301 junction box
great rig behind us but it's absolutely freezing he always complains about the cold well it is
cold in here however we have developed the rig behind us because we were asked the question
from our series of videos on smart homes we looked at the s plan plus heating system and somebody
contacted us and said could you go systematically through the s plan system that's what we're going
to do today here we are now yes you will remember from that but we used this junction box in that
series to correct the wiring nightmare that was in that house and obviously try and decipher it so we
could add an attack more smart thermostat so we've got the rig behind us we're going to go through
each part of the rig so we can just familiarize ourselves before we look at the connections we're
going to do that in two ways we're going to physically show the connections that we made
in here as well as giving you a wiring diagram that might be able to help you as well so let's
have a look at the rig behind us then so here we come gordon where do you want to start okay well
i started the junction box so this is yeah so this is our s-plan uh wiring junction box the
one we had on site was s plan plus so we've just dialed this back to the basic s-plan which means
we have two zone valves so we have one for the central heating one for the hot water which is
obviously married up with a cylinder stat your rights yeah we have our obviously pump as well
to circulate through the system there's our incoming uh incoming supply a nice branded efixx
uh fuse spur there at the boiler we've mocked up with this coming red light gary yeah because if we
just pop down another look at the Netatmo smart thermostat there it's uh 12 degrees which i think
is a record for the day we started off at six this morning and we've been here over 12 hours
that's all that hot air you give gary um so again so this is a wireless thermostat which is paired
with this relay here that we wired in in that previous video that goes into the junction box
this doesn't control the hot water so we've got a conventional digital timer that does the program
for the hot water we've also got some wireless radiator valves some smart radiator valves as well
they're completely white so they're not connected there they're battery powered but if you haven't
seen that do check out that video so got a lot going on then it's busy lots of wires it is and
that's what puts people off it's that logical approach you're going to give them including the
layouts of your Wago 221s in order that people can make these connections now we've done a wiring
diagram which you'll see in bits at the end of the presentation when we put the stages in but let's
see it first of all okay let's see where we end up at the end of the year so this yeah again so this
looks incredibly busy because again there's lots of wires in but a lot of them there's a lot of
a lot of cpc connections a lot of neutral connections and a lot of permanent lines
once you've got rid of them it actually simplifies but we will come back to that but coming in there
obviously we've got our pump we've got the boiler we've got our cylinder thermostat we've got the
zone valve for the hot water timer that we showed there the conventional timer our
zone valve for the heating and our room thermostat which is obviously a room thermostat plus timer
plus all those smart functions that we looked at in the tecmo smart videos and our incoming supply
right so you're going to get two cracks of this we've got the wiring diagram which will
break down at the end of the presentation as well as we're going to show every single
connection that we made in here and the logical approach that you made to do those connections
so having tackled a couple of these WAGO 207-4301 joint boxes before gordon you think
you've got a better layout in order to clearly see the connections in this s-plan heating system yeah
so a few people have asked us but let's first job get the connectors loaded up you obviously
need lots of five wear ones probably a shame they don't make a 10 way one by looks of things yeah
there's a shame so i'll have to put some links in to join those together so i can just slot them
down the side so it is i've only used five ways and a few two-way two-two-one connectors in this
whole layout you don't need any three ways okay right and there is loads of spaces there are 60
connecting points yes and there's still a row at the back we could use if uh if we're needed to but
yeah there's still room around the edge so no need to go into the middle
okay so loading those in and then obviously we're going to start looking at maybe oh introducing
some labels already i like that yeah so again it comes with a labeling strip and i've printed our
label off i've actually split the neutral block in two okay so it's left and right
side is that because you think it's logically gonna from the way the cables lay out go left
and right yeah and most of the most conductors need a cpc connection so there's our permanent
line connections down this side okay again just quite a lot of kit now needs a permanent line
and we've got this side and then he decides to supply out to the boiler and the pump and then
obviously just the interconnections between the zone valves and the thermostats and programmers
okay right so they're all locked and loaded what's your next thing uh next we'll need to remember to
connect the five-way ones together particularly on things like the uh the neutral ah right yes you
can put some links in here to make those all the same connection yep top tip do not forget those
links oh yeah you'll have it wired correctly but not working so you can do one for the line
as well yeah so again just uh across yep lovely and one more for the cpcs is that right that's it
and then we're ready to start putting our conductors in which are you going to start with
uh so let's just start with a fixed wiring that's coming through the back of the box
so again we're mimicking what we had on site now a smart home takeover the boiler was on another
floor okay um so obviously that was remote and the wire came in from the back for that
okay lots of people out there will be watching this and hoping it will give us some help for
maybe things such as am2 am2s and m2e top tip is to follow the wiring diagram um we've got a
slightly different uh thermostat here aren't we in this installation yeah so fitting a
smart thermostat so that obviously changes things because that's a combination of timer
and thermostat in one so that removes a few wires from the system yeah however i think the logical
approach the layout and following the wiring diagram and we're actually going to introduce
one of these at the end of the presentation we can help people yeah just to show people what we've
done here so i'm just getting rid of some some of those uh the fixed wiring first okay so split on
in and next one is that the one to the boiler yes that's the supplier to fire up the boiler
it's a pleasure though with these two two ones in it just to you know lift a lever pushing you can
conductor and then obviously just close it again you can just push the fixed wiring ones in can't
you you don't have to lift the lever but yeah it's uh yeah you can end up sometimes pushing hard and
bending the conductor if you're not quite got it in the right place remember there looks like lots
of terminals in here okay this will take up to 60 but remember those traditional you know companies
like Honeywell and things like that you'd have a strip of 10 or 12 conductors and then your wiring
diagrams are labeled accordingly yeah so those those connectors there and you're probably putting
i don't know what feels like you know 25 cpcs into one screwed termination you know one gets
missing one gets broken one gets lost yeah whereas obviously the two two one's beautiful and just
clip them in and it's when you're going to do maintenance that you really feel the pain
when you've got a removable zone valve from a shared connector yeah i think on-site the video
that we showed there there was some liberal use of connections and tape and all sorts of stuff wasn't
there yeah okay so still doing neutrals yeah uh yeah neutral so this is the supply out to our um
central uh for the hot water programmer so again we're using this as a smart heating system right
but we still do need a timer for the hot water and you'll notice the black conductor there's been
oversleeved in blue because that's the neutral supply to a three core and earth okay i notice
you've used ferrules on all your flexible cables yep so make life easier for us and obviously the
next person is and you do some maintenance you will notice there's lots of different colors
because we have uh different size conductors that go from half a millimeter squared all the way up
to a one millimeter square depending on what we're connecting right okay so still going away with the
cpcs now clear those out of the way now is that exactly yeah it's done the fixed wiring let's
just uh yeah get rid of all the cpc's you can do that at the end if you wanted to at the start just
it's amazing actually once you've got rid of the permanent line neutral and
cpc there's not that many wires left okay yeah and again as we said follow the wiring diagram
um just this just makes a logical layout and a lot easier for you to understand what you're doing
right they all in they're all in so let's just uh now just oh no missed one so there we go
yeah right that's cleared those out and you see the pattern okay left hand side neutrals
right into the neutrals and the cpc is all in the center logical yeah otherwise he'd be a lot more
wireless crossing over from both sides so get rid of some neutrals now yep you could introduce a few
cable ties at some point there are advantages and disadvantages of doing that isn't that
yeah so yeah it can make it look very tidy but if you need to go back in to do any maintenance you
can have to cut them off straight away to remove something like a zone valve well to me already it
looks reasonably tightly remember there's going to be a lid on it we're looking back there every
two days at the connections are we so there we go so a few more neutrals yeah a few more
and then we're going to look at our permanent line connections all right okay put that one in
yeah looks good yeah again i've left room uh this this would also accommodate s plan plus so you'll
see there's some spare ways at the end there if you're gonna add here another zone valve okay
yep right so look at some permanent lines so this is a feed out to our smart thermostat so there's
two permanent lines required want to feed the electronics that connected to the uh system and
then i want to also feed the vault free relay as well so that's common across a lot of different
types of smart thermostat to do that okay but you could configure it for a standard old uh rotary
thermostat sorry yeah thermostat as well couldn't yeah yeah and there's the permanent feed to the
zone valves as well the gray wires that have just gone in there yeah next we're going to look at
we're going to look at pick one the um supply out to the boiler yeah
so the pump for the bar i've already done the border this is the supply up to the pump
yeah and again you're trying to stack them in the best of way you can with the flex coming in the
bottom yeah yeah and there's just the orange wires that are returned from the zone valves from the
micro switch and dissolve valve and that's uh when that's in the closed position to light the boiler
and set the pump going right so we're nearly there now yeah yeah so again there's a spare
way there if you have to uh have a say there's another zone valve for an s plant plus system
okay so let's just uh finish the the easy one it's the the heating so it's again the return from our
combination of room thermostat and timer yeah so that makes it a lot simpler
and just then connect that to the live supply out to the zone valve
yeah so again just two connections for that and then repeat the process for the hot water
so i've got our supply from the time clock and then i'm going to send that
out to the cylinder thermostat okay so that's great identified with brown sleeving yeah
and then just again so there's the supply out to the thermostat
and then it returns but again this has been oversleeved because it's a it's a blue conductor
but it's actually a line kind of returns okay and then the last one to put in is just again
the supply out to operate the motor in the zone valve for the hot water right okay so
all in so that was nice easy connections again i'm sure people got their opinion on what that
looks like and where the cable ties will be needed remember the cover is going to go on it
yeah if we could shorten the wires i mean but i've left enough slack in the flexible cable
should you need to make any adjustments nice use of heat shrink there as well to identify
each of the cables as well making it nice and simple there we go so that's the layout
so yeah permanent line down there yeah
and then that will split neutrals again with room for
expansion if we're going to add a an s plan plus okay check this hide cpuc in the middle
okay and again there is plenty of room for extra connectors in there isn't there
yeah you've got some down the left and right hand side that can be added if needed yeah and then if
you had another heating zone there's room for some more two or three ways at the bottom there as well
so we've said it a few times throughout that presentation a logical approach and you've spread
those connections out in a logical sequence as well making it easier and i think the end product
actually gives you something that's quite simple to look at even though it looked at the start
probably more complicated than it was yeah and certainly easier to fault finding those older
style junction box you have in there or the rats nest that we faced when we first had to uh put
this juego box in in that previous video so check that out if you haven't seen it but guess now guys
let's let's just revisit that and step through uh the process as you did then in a slightly
different order because obviously depends on the wiring system you're using but i've done this in a
logical way that deals with each group of conductors right so the first thing i did
obviously we loaded up the uh juego terminals and put in the shorting links to join those together
so it's obviously connecting the cpcs and those five-way line connectors and our neutral that's
arranged at either side of the junction box am i going to be able to get a copy of this after this
presentation will be a link in the description for these if we're feeling generous gary we
will put a link to it so someone can download it and we'll probably build a dedicated page on the
efixx website and link to that so the links are in what's next yes next i thought we'll deal with the
permanent line connections right so again that's out to our zone valves our heating programmer
and our room stat again the room stack has two permanent line connections to it because one
is to feed the electronics to make it operate the other one is to feed the vault free contact
on the relay that obviously feeds back into our heating system okay so they're in so where we go
next so next one step through deal with the again the neutral connections next so again depending
on the uh type of wiring you can see i've used a black conductor then obviously in blue that goes
out to our hot water timer okay yeah that makes sense then we're gonna look at the boiler and pump
yes again get rid of the live connections out to the uh the boiler and the pump um so again
there's room in that terminal if we're going to add say an s plan plus which would add an extra
zone valve and there'd be an additional orange wire in there okay what do you want to go to
next so again then let's just look at again the final connections for our central heating so again
because we're using a smart thermostat there isn't as many wires you might have in a traditional
system because there isn't a separate timer that's built into the the thermostat itself so i have a
we have a return from the um from the thermostat and then again that feeds straight into the
zone valve from for the heating system all right okay so and then that all leaves us was just the
hot water connections so again a return supply from our hot water timer that feeds into the
cylinder stats which comes back in the blue wire there but again that's been oversleeved and brown
because it is a line conductor and then that again goes out to the zone valve for the hot
water so again we're breaking it down section by section to that logical approach in order
to make these connections of course you've got the advantage of the two two ones as well with
these connections and then obviously just one set of connections to make and that's obviously our
cpcs and does only yeah there's only one wire in there that doesn't have one and that's to
our room stats now it depends on the brand some of them do still have a cpc conductor to them
and there is still a spare ware in our um in our block to do that but yeah that's the uh
that's the system complete and just to give us a full back to the composite view which
looks incredibly busy yeah that's it but again worst case now you could screenshot
that and you've got a fighting chance and to install the system that we've got behind us
so we've walked it through stage by stage we've got a wiring diagram that'll be hopefully
downloadable in the link below yeah no pressure to you there gordon okay that'll teach you for
the third oh 12 degrees that we're currently working in here at nearly half a state at night
just stop there going yes what's that red led on there my heated vest yeah okay was your door's
check out the review on these as well that was done if you're working in a cold warehouse later
like looking at s plans probably won't have the heating on you might benefit from one of
these yeah you might do and then obviously we've walked you through all the physical connections so
hopefully it's answered the question that we were obviously asked in the comments we will try and
answer as many as we can in this case we answered it with a physical rig and actually a walkthrough
demonstration often it's just a reply if someone has a better layer of the yeah a better suggestion
on possibly rearranging those terminals in a different way put those comments below we'd
obviously like to hear your feedback or any other central heating related tales you may like to tell
us and again if somebody's struggling in those comments and you can answer it please answer it
on our behalf we'd love a community that helps each other within those comments we're always
interested in your comments and we will try as hard as we can to get back to as many as we can