Today we’re going to be taking apart and fixing the Samsung Galaxy S6.
You can go ahead and unplug my braided cable from the phone, take out the SIM card with
my SIM card removal tool.
And then you can grab a heat gun or your sister’s hair dryer, and you want to heat up the back
of the glass so that it’s too hot to touch.
You want to heat to seep through to the glue underneath the glass.
It will take about 2 or 3 minutes.
Just kind of gently heat up the whole phone all the way around.
I would recommend watching this entire video all the way through.
I will drop hints and tips the entire video.
Also if you feel like you learn anything during the video, or if you enjoy watching this,
go ahead and hit that subscribe button, it does help me out a lot.
I’m taking my razor blade and slipping it between the metal frame and the back glass
of the phone.
You can see right here I accidentally dug my razor into the white color of the glass.
Once I realized that the razor can scrape away the color I never repeated that mistake
again.
I slid my razor with the edge not touching the back glass or the inside mid-frame of
the phone because there are components you can damage on the inside as well, which you’ll
see.
If the going starts getting tougher, make sure you warm up the glass again so that the
adhesive will fall apart a little bit easier.
You can see I’m just taking my razor blade and sliding it around the edge of the phone.
That’s where the majority of the adhesive is on that back panel; just cutting it away
from that mid frame.
Going to finish off the last little bit of the adhesive here with my razor blade and
that separates the back glass from the phone itself.
These are pretty cheap.
I’m going to go ahead and link those in the video description as soon as they become
available.
You can see the adhesive that is stuck to the back but the majority of them will come
with adhesive preinstalled.
Here are the screws that you need to remove from the mid frame of the phone in order to
get at the screen.
It’s just a small phillips head screw driver.
The tools will be listed down in the video description below.
Go ahead and check it out if you need any replacement tools.
I’m going to heat up the screen of the phone, mostly focusing around the edge because that’s
where the adhesive is holding it onto the frame.
And I’m going to push from the back side of the frame, on the battery, so that the
screen will pop out from the phone.
You can see the adhesive along the top here as well as I try to separate it.
It’s really important that you do not press around on the wireless charging pad.
You can see that here.
I lifted that up before I started pressing on it.
What’s interesting with the wireless charging pad, you can see the connection points on
the main board that charge the battery wirelessly.
I just disconnected the battery along with the fingerprint scanner and home button here.
And then here is the LCD ribbon cable connector.
They are like little Legos; you just want to unsnap them from the main board.
Here’s the front camera that popped off.
Once again, replacement parts will be linked in the video description below.
Here is the earpiece, and that releases the motherboard from the mid-frame.
I’m going to release the 4G and Bluetooth wire cables.
They are just little snaps.
And then the charging port unsnaps from the back of the motherboard.
Here is the motherboard itself.
Nothing else is really replaceable on the motherboard except for the rear facing camera
here.
It’s kind of glued onto the motherboard which is interesting.
They haven’t done that in the past.
Here’s the camera.
I’m going to go ahead and snap that back into place.
That’s the same little ribbon cable connector with the Lego piece.
It’s also interesting; it has a little circle pin on the front that helps guide it into
place.
I thought that was interesting, I haven’t seen that before.
Here’s the battery.
The battery’s a little bit interesting as well.
You…when you’re taking out the battery you want to use something thin so slide underneath
the battery and cut away the glue.
If you use a round pry tool it will put too much pressure on the screen and it will crack
between the screen and the battery.
So make sure you’re not prying the battery out, you’re slicing the battery out with
a thin card.
You can use like a face card as well, like a poker card.
Coming in from that other side as well, making sure I’m only slicing and not prying.
You’re going to want to take that advice for the rest of the phone as well because
the screen is so ridiculously thin.
I’ll show you that a little bit later on in the video once we get that separated.
Battery is almost off.
Remember replacement batteries can also be found in the video description below.
There you go.
There is one screw holding on the charging port to the mid frame.
Remove that Philips head screw.
And you would think that charging port would come off, but the capacitive buttons are wrapped
around the mid frame and underneath the glass.
So we have to wait until we remove the glass and LCD from that panel in order to separate
the charging port.
Taking out the earpiece; set that off to the side.
And then here is the vibrating motor.
Eventually I want to take one of these guys apart and see what’s on the inside.
I’ll save that for a future video if you guys are interested.
Now I’m going to heat up the glass.
This heat job is going to be a little bit more important cuz we’re heating up the
entire screen of the phone.
What I’m going to do now is slide the little card that I’ve been using between the LCD
and the plastic.
Now there is a black shield on the back of the LCD that we’re going to try to not separate
from the LCD, especially if we’re going to reuse the screen again.
So I’m going to slide the thin card between the screen.
Once again, if the going gets tough warm up the phone again.
I like to keep it so that it’s just barely too hot to touch.
And remember don’t flex the screen at all or you’ll be super surprised at how easy
it breaks.
You can see that I’m taking my card and sliding it just between the plastic and the
black shield.
You want to leave that black shield intact and attached to the LCD.
It’s not too big of a deal if you accidentally separate it a little bit.
It’s just easier if you keep it intact.
Also I’m being very careful with the LCD ribbon cable down there at the bottom of the
screen, making sure not to kink that at all.
If you bend that or kink it too much it will stop working and your LCD will just be black
or gray when you try to reinstall it on your motherboard.
Be gentle with that LCD cable, pulling it off to the side.
Heating the phone up one more time, making sure to get down there by the capacitive menu
buttons and back buttons.
And then using kind of a slicing/sawing motion to get rid of the adhesive attached to the
LCD and that black frame.
Now that I’m down towards the bottom of the phone, you want to be super careful with
those capacitive buttons, especially if you’re going to reuse your charging port.
I’m sliding my card between the button and the glass, making sure not to cut the button
as I press it down and slide off the glass frame.
Once the glass is off… and here is where you really want to make sure not to hurt the
LCD.
You can see how thin it is.
It’s kind of like doing brain surgery on a Dorito chip.
Here’s the charging port capacitive buttons.
I’m going to pull those off the back side.
And that releases the charging port from the phone.
If you need any replacement parts I’m going to list those in the video description.
So go ahead and check that out if you need a replacement charging port or your menu button…like
this little guy right here; just kind of feed that back through the mid-frame.
Remember how it goes.
It goes through that main hole right there.
I’ll show you as I reinstall it right now.
I’m going to go ahead and put the phone back together again.
Press that home button into place.
And get that charging port; it will guide on top of those little screw holes right next
to the charging port itself.
Wrap the capacitive buttons around the back.
Kind of stick them into place.
They have little circles on them with guiding pins so you can make sure they’re in the
right spot.
There’s a little metal grill that’s on your old screen that you want to transfer
over to your new screen.
And then your new screen should have its own adhesive, but if it does not, just get some
double sided tape and put that tape where the adhesive used to be on your old screen.
Slide the LCD ribbon cable through the plastic frame.
And then line up all 4 corners.
And you want to get that home button lined up perfectly.
I messed up a little bit here so I’m going to unsnap it, get that home button perfect,
and then snap it back down again.
The home button will be your main guiding point with that bottom side of the screen.
Get the one little Phillips head screw back into the charging port right next to the headphone
jack.
Press everything down into place.
Earpiece is now sliding in.
Getting that little tiny circuit board at the top in the little groove.
And that vibrating motor back into its little circle.
Here’s the battery again.
Make sure there’s nothing underneath the battery when you put it down, like that little
4G wire.
Press it down into place and then snap the motherboard onto the charging port connection
that’s on the back of the motherboard right there.
It’s like a little Lego; you feel it connect.
It’ll be pretty solid.
Get that home button and LCD with the earpiece all snapped in.
And the front facing camera; snap that way back into the motherboard.
And then the last one I do is the battery just to make sure there’s no power going
through the board as I’m working on it.
Getting the Bluetooth wire pressed into place along with the 4G cable.
I’m also going to press the wires down into the little grooves that are right next to
the board, just to make sure that when I put the back frame on it’s not going to pinch
the cable in any weird way and disconnect it so I won’t have service any more.
Here I’m lining up the charging port with the back frame.
Sliding that screen into place.
And clipping it all around that frame as well.
It’s not going to fit perfectly just yet because we don’t have the screws holding
it down into that back frame, but we can test it now that the power button is lined up with
the little contact pads on the motherboard.
Everything appears to be working so I’m going to go ahead and screw all these screws
back in.
Once again your back panel should come with its own adhesive, but if it does not, grab
some double sided tape and then lay that down.
Peel up the back of the tape.
And then you can set your back into place.
But normally they’ll come with their own adhesive and they’re pretty cheap.
I will link those in the video description as well.
Pinch the phone shut and you should be good to go.
No one would be able to tell that the phone was even opened.
Worked out pretty well.
I’m going to go ahead and test the phone really quick to make sure everything’s working.
Plug in my braided cable…looks like it’s charging.
It’s got the fast charger connected and we should be good to go.
I am going to do a durability test with this phone.
I will link that here.
So if you’re curious to see how durable this phone is, go ahead and click that link.
I will have that up as soon as it’s done.
Once again it does help me out a lot if you subscribe to my videos.
Don’t forget to “like” if this helped you.
Hope to see you around.
Thanks for watching.