Hello John Talley here with Partzilla.com. Today I'm going to show
you how to replace the front CV boots on our 2015 Polaris RZR 900 S. Pretty simple
to do, just want to get it lifted up where it's a little bit easier for me to
work on and I'll show you how to get it done.
Alright guys this is going to be a skill level 2. Not that tough, but still you're
going to need to get organized on this one. Alright as far as the tools that
you're going to need, you're gonna have to have a couple of different dead blow
hammers, a pair of needlenose, pair of side cutters. On the socket side, you just
need a 27, a 19, and a 15, a couple of 3/8 extensions will help you there as well. A
15 millimeter wrench, flat blade screwdriver, and just a regular 3/8
ratchet. Then you also want to invest in a breaker bar to get those lugs lug nuts
loose on the tires. As far as your torque wrenches, I prefer using two different
ones. The Snap-On one I do use for the the
smaller torques, and then I've got this larger Craftsman for the big-- the big
numbers. Alright other than that you need to pick up a utility knife and most
importantly, a pair of these. These are what they call a pair of CV boot pliers,
so without those you're not going to pull this off. Now if you would, reference
our exploded diagrams. That way you can go through and pick the parts that
you're going to need, whether it be the inner or the outer boot, or you know, one
or the other or both of them. I'm gonna go ahead and do both. So once you've got
your tools and your parts together we can go over there and I'll show you how
to get it done. Let's start off by getting that cotter pin out and then
I'll have somebody hop up on the inside hold the breaks and get this castle nut
off. Alright next we're gonna go and remove the two caliper mounting bracket
bolts-- a couple of 15 millimeters. We're just gonna take off the entire assembly
and you'll notice that these threads, they've got a little bit of a locking
compound on them and actually Polaris wants you to replace those bolts each
and every time you take them off. I think that's a little excessive. I'm just going
to clean them back up and use Loctite on them we go to reassemble.
All I'm doing here is using a zip tie just to hold this caliper bracket up and
out of the way. I don't want to hang by its hose. Alright next, we're going to take
these two pinch bolts off and that'll allow us to bring the control arms out
of the hub.
Alright, I'll see if we can get those A-arms to let go. Now you should just be
able to grab it up here and pop it out. And there she is.
And this is what we're after because we need to replace that. Since we have to
replace the outer one anyway, I'm just going to go ahead and replace both of them.
So let's get her over to the teardown bench and get this swapped out. Let's start by
cutting these old bands off. Now I'm just getting the grease out of the way, and
what we're after-- once we get this cleaned up a little bit-- is I want to hit
on that inner race only right about where my finger is. Now the joint itself
looks to be in pretty good shape. This boot was not cut, so there was not any
water or dirt intrusion. Like I said, we could probably reuse this boot but I'm
going to go ahead and replace it. I mean, you're right here it took a fair amount
of effort to get to, so I'm going to replace it.
Tell you what. We're gonna go ahead and get this out of the way and it also said to tap
evenly around this thing. Alright, looks like we got it apart without damaging it
so life is good. Okay now we can concentrate on the other end. Same game.
Go ahead and cut these off. Where I'm cutting is where it's thinner on both
sides. That's all you need to do is basically break that connection right
there. And looks like we've got this one in time as well. I'm not seeing
any water or dirt inside of it. So I think we're gonna be good to go. The only end
that's actually removable is the the outside. The inner it stays together so,
looking at it it looks to be in really good shape. We're just gonna add some
grease back in there when we put it together and it should be good to go for
several more miles. Alright, on this particular unit, our inner and outer
boots are actually the same part number, so which is nice. I've worked on many
machines where it was different from the inside to the outside.
What we're gonna do is fill up this cavity with grease and then a little bit
more in the boot and that should be good good to go. You don't want to get any on
the outside edge because that's where one of the clamps is actually going to
go and we want that to be a dry fit. Alright as you're pulling this one down
you'll see a couple of grooves that you need to get past and then there's
actually a step down in the diameter of the drive shaft and that is where we
want the leading edge to be. Alright all we need to do now is just get our
clamps on. Alright guys we've got the the clamp set up in its preliminary
position, because what we're gonna do using the special tool is gonna use this
edge to grab here and here and pull that section together. When that happens this
session will come up here and then be grabbed by these other little
protrusions. You have to be real careful in this section right here. These two
bands on either side-- they were trying to buckle up so I had to be really careful
you know bringing that section together. There it is. Alright now we can go ahead
and do the outer. Alright it's basically the same procedures we did a over on
that end. Now Polaris actually wants you to
replace this little clip. I don't think it's really that necessary, this one
looks to be in good shape, still has a good spring to it so I'm gonna go with
it.
There we go. I'm just gonna add back in some more grease. Just bring it down to
where that bevel goes to a smaller diameter. Same process, same parts as we
did before. Just need to do it again. Kind of helps if you push down on that outer
edge, help clip it in there. Alright now that we've got our boots on, I just want
to clean up these splines a little bit and then get some anti-seize on there
then we can get it put back in the machine. This does two things. One, it'll
make it good back together a little bit smoother, and in the event that we have
to go back into this it will allow it to come back apart. Because I can tell you
from experience when these two pieces get rusted together it takes an awful
lot to pull them apart. That's it. As you can see is pushed all the way up flush
so she's all the way in there. Alright, next let's get our hub put back together.
Yeah, let's get that cleaned up a little bit too. And it'll make it go together so
much smoother. If you've got a bunch of dirt and grime in there? That just act acts
like a locking agent almost. It will not want to go back together smoothly. Alright, gonna
go with some anti-seize on the splines, and then on the hub a little light
amount of grease. It's actually going to go in contact with that bearing. Alright
start by bringing this up and around. I think we can go ahead and sit that
on that lower control arm.
Now go ahead and put on our hub. See how smooth that was? The way it ought to be.
Remember you had two washers out here. And we'll go ahead and put this on-- the
castle nut-- on just hand tight for right now. Alright let's go ahead and get a
little bit of Loctite on our bolts. Start by getting these snugged down and then we're
gonna torque them to 42 foot pounds. Alright, the only way to get this in there
is to use a 12 point socket and it's real close. Now let's go ahead and cut
our caliper loose and bring it around and get it bolted back down. And we're
going to put a little bit of Loctite on these as well. And caliper mounting bolts
go to 30 foot pounds. Alright, last but not least let's get this castle nut and
that's going to a hundred and eighty foot-pounds, so we're gonna change torque
wrenches. That's it. And get our cotter pin back in there.
Just getting our tire foot back on and then we're gonna torque each one of
these to 120 foot pounds. And remember, you've got just the regular steel wheels?
They only go to 60. But if you've got the aluminums? They got to go to 120. Alright
guys that pretty much wraps this one up. All I've got to do now is just to get it
off the jack stands and take it for a spin.
Listen if you need any of the parts that we used to do this once you come see us
at Partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of. If you have any questions
or comments leave them in the section below and I'll do my best to answer them.
Until next time we just want to say thanks for watching.