What's up, guys? I'm Brian Sacawa, you're watching He Spoke Style, and today we're
talking all about formal bow ties. So the first thing we're going to do is to go
over the five shapes that formal bow ties come in. The big butterfly, the semi-
butterfly, straight end, diamond point, and the modified butterfly. Starting off here
with the big butterfly. Now, this is a shape that makes a statement with its
size. And, as a result, it's not going to be for everyone. Now, as a general rule,
the size of your bow tie should be in proportion to your face. So if you've got
a narrow face, the big butterfly might not be the best choice for you. It's a
shape that works best for wider faces and for guys who like to make a
statement. Next up, we have the semi- butterfly. This is going to be your most
classic and conservative option. In terms of size, you want to look for one with
about a two, to two-and-a-half inch width at the ends. The semi-butterfly is a
great choice for pretty much everyone, especially if you consider your style to
be on the classic or more conservative side. Okay, here we have the straight-end.
For me, the straight-end has a bit of a cool factor to it. It's definitely a
classic option, but it still looks modern and sleek. You don't see this one as
often and if you wear it, it will stand out as most people are going to be
choosing a butterfly shape. The straight- end is a good choice if you have a
narrower face or if you consider yourself a traditionalist, but like to
stand out within that traditional framework. Next, is the diamond point,
which is the dandiest shape of the bunch. This is actually the shape that James
Bond wears at the beginning of Dr. No. Now, if you're going to wear a
diamond point, you've got to own it and have the personality to match. And, if
that sounds like you, this shape is going to be your favorite option. This shape
will work best for people with narrower faces and big personalities. Finally, we
have the modified butterfly. This is a non-traditional shape that still looks
traditional, but is also very intriguing. It's one of the signature shapes that my
friend Nicholas from Le Noeud Papillon cuts. And, as you can see, it is straight
on top with a regular butterfly shape on the bottom. For me, this is the shape for
the true sartorialist, you know? It has a classic look and won't draw attention to
itself, but it has that sort of almost hidden detail that not
many people will notice, but the ones who do are probably the people you're
already talking to at the cocktail party. Okay, so those are the five shapes. Now
let's talk a little bit about fabric, which is very important. So, you'll
typically see formal bow ties in either satin or grosgrain. Satin bow ties have a
smooth appearance. Grosgrain bow ties have a heavier and ribbed appearance. Now,
the most important thing to remember when choosing a formal bow tie is that
the bow tie fabric should match the lapel fabric. If you have a satin lapel, choose
a satin bow tie. And if you have a grosgrain lapel, choose a grosgrain bow
tie. Now, a good question is: do the bow tie and lapel fabrics need to match
exactly? I'm going to say not really. Because unless you're getting a bow tie
custom cut in the exact same fabric of your lapels, or your tux and bow tie are
from the same brand, like Ralph Lauren, for example, having them match exactly is
not really possible. And that's totally fine. Because, in most cases, they're going
to look close enough. Now, what do you do if you have a self-facing lapel, which is
a lapel made of the same fabric as the rest of the jacket? In this case, you can
choose a bow tie in either satin or grosgrain. My wedding dinner jacket was
self facing and I wore the same grosgrain bow tie that I wore with my
tuxedo during the ceremony. Okay, velvet bow tie. Now, so far as I know,
there are no hard and fast rules here. But, for me, I think it looks best paired
with a velvet jacket. I'm going to say that you could have a satin or grosgrain
lapel and get away with a velvet bow tie as long as the jacket itself is velvet.
You know, both items make a statement and if you're wearing a velvet jacket to
begin with, go all in, you know, by all means, if you feel like it. I personally,
am not a big fan of a velvet bow tie with a traditional tuxedo or dinner
jacket because I feel like it stands out a little too much, and not in the best
way. To each their own though, and, you know, that's just my opinion. You can take it
or leave it. One final thing I will say and that is to always tie your own bow
tie. A bow tie should not look perfect. In fact, one of the things that I think
looks absolutely terrible is when you see one of those pre-tied department
store bow ties. I understand the urge to want everything with the tuxedo to be
perfect. If you watched my wedding tuxedo video, I
talk a lot about how I wanted everything to be perfect. But there's a difference
between making the perfect choices versus things looking too perfect.
What really needs to happen, especially with the bow tie, is that it needs to be
perfectly imperfect, if that makes any sense. For me, it looks more elegant and
it looks more relaxed. Plus, the best thing about tying your own bow tie is
that at the end of the night, you can untie it and it's just really satisfying
to untie it and have it hanging around your neck. And, it looks pretty cool. So
finally, remember that whether you're choosing a big butterfly, a semi-
butterfly, straight-end, diamond point, or modified butterfly shape, that the bow tie
you choose should work with both your face shape and your personality. Leave
your comments below and let me know what kind of bow tie guy you are. Thumbs up if
you liked this video. Hit that subscribe button. And until next time, thanks for
watching and stay tailored.