I've got a confession.
I have built a hyper organized workshop.
But this is my home office.
It is driving me crazy.
And I've got to fix it.
So I'm going to get organized, get things off of the ground,
and I want to make this an inspiring place to work.
Not a messy storage locker.
And it starts today by building an 11 door cabinet.
So, as you can see, I like to start my plywood, break
down on the floor,
get everything with the tracks, also it's more manageable on the table saw
and then I could cut everything to final width.
But this cabinet is going to be six feet wide.
So after getting these pieces cut to width here,
I'm going to use the tracks all again up on the table, saw,
of course, with my insulation in place and cut it to the final length.
But if you don't have a tracks all, you can also just use a straight edge
in a right angle to make sure you can get those square cuts.
I've got the camera
signs laid out here, and I'm going to make an integrated toe kick with them.
And so I'm going to go ahead and lay that out and cut that with my jigsaw.
I'm going to use my combination square and a pencil for that.
All right. Here's something you want to avoid.
Now, I just finished the cut that you just saw,
and I looked down and I saw, oh, there's a little bit of pencil mark.
And so I'll just quickly take that off with the jigsaw. Don't do that.
If you have just a little bit left, do not try to hit with a jigsaw
because you're going to screw it up, which is exactly what I just did.
I had a nice little dip in here because it's very,
very hard just to shave off a little bit with a jigsaw instead
get a chisel or something and shave it down, which is what I should have done.
Now, it's not a huge mistake.
I'm going to make this the right panel, which is going to be up against the wall.
You'll never see this.
And I'm just going to try to do better on the next slide.
Mistakes were made. What can you do?
Now I'm going to make some pocket holes on the stretchers.
Then we can figure out how to get this big bad boy assembled at.
So these stretchers are going to attach the sides,
so I've got these two sinter supports which are going to help carry
the load in the center of the cabinet,
but I can use these to position the front stretcher.
So any time you can use relative reference and not have to measure,
that's always a better way to go, in my opinion.
So using that same idea, I'm going to use a couple of spacers
that I cut and I'll touch the other one after I get it down onto the ground.
Now, I can use that other support on this
and to again, get the spacing that will attach all these the support
and put it down on the ground and do the tops.
Now the carcass is coming together,
and Carcass is a really weird word for a cabinet, but we'll go with it.
And the Cabinet is almost done.
And I just need to add a couple more things to it,
which will be the center dividers.
But when you take those measurements, because you do it after assembly,
make sure that you're taking it from the end here,
because, you know, at the end, that's going to be an accurate measurement
between the top and the bottom.
So if you take it in the middle, these flop around, so, you know,
you might be off an eighth of an inch
or more depending upon the bow and the flecks of this top.
So get that and we'll get these assembled.
Apparently, this cabinet is not going to have a quarter inch back
or anything like that,
and because there's drawers,
you don't really need to cover it in the back,
but to give it some extra rigidity and
to add some mounting options to the wall, I'm going to put in some cleats on there.
Now, while I was doing the pocket holes to go into the top or the bottom,
I accidentally started off on the wrong side.
But if you can look through the rest of this build
and find the pocket hole that I put in the wrong place, tell me where it is.
Hashtag mistakes were made.
I'm going to give away free place in this bill
for five people that I can find down below in the comment section on day
one of the video release.
People will reward those folks that are hopping in early.
Good luck. Oh, but if you don't win, you can obviously purchase the plans as well.
We appreciate your support.
So the cabinet is going to be painted,
but we have these plywood edges on the front and I want to cover those.
So I'm going to use some hard wood edge building.
And this is just quarter inch strips of poplar.
And I'm going to put this on the edges.
It's going to make it a lot easier to paint.
Also, it's going to be a lot more durable than just these plywood edges.
So I'm going to show you
how you can apply edge banding with no clamps and no air nailor.
All you need is a roll of Scotch painter's tape, a sponsor,
today's video to get the job done.
Now, Scotch brand has a whole family
of tapes that are designed specifically for your service and job.
I've been using them on a lot of the recent projects,
and I keep a couple of rolls
of Scotch blue original painter's tape in the shop as well.
You probably saw me using it earlier when I was labeling my plywood parts
that I was breaking down.
I found this works a lot better than sticky notes.
Actually, I was using those before, but the painter's tape stays put
and it transfers better between parts.
But another one of my favorite tips for painter's
tape is using it to glue down solid wood edge banding like this.
Now, if you don't have an air nailer or if you just don't
want to fill all the nail holes when you're done,
this is going to work like a charm.
Now, just glue down the trim and then tightly
pull a strip of tape around it, securing it to the sides of the cabinet.
You can put a piece of tape every six to eight inches or more
if you see any gaps or have a link in the description for the Scotch Glue
original painter's tape.
And thanks to Scotch painter's tape for being a sponsor, this video.
After the glue is drying up, you can just take off the tape
and then clean up the edges with a block plane or a sander.
Rock. Rock. And then
all the trim flushed up and I went ahead and applied some putty
to where the seams are,
especially on the outside anymore, as much about the inside,
because you're really not going to see those.
But all I'm going to do now is saying those flushing
and have it ready for paint or we'll see how that goes,
because the weather's getting kind of bad outside.
So the weather report is really bad. It's going to be raining tomorrow.
So I'm trying to get everything sprayed, but it is almost dark.
I'm going to see what I can do.
But or maybe I have to bring the lights out here, but I hate spraying inside.
So we'll try to get this done.
Cat in the projecto, oh, my gosh.
So painting a night, it's doable,
but definitely some spots that I missed, so painting in the daytime is way better.
But that's OK, because I'm going to be moving on
in the face frames next for the drawers and making those out of solid poplar .
I'm going to do some miling to get those ready
and then I'm going to be painting those.
And it will be nice because I don't have to treat
any of the edges since it's solid wood.
And I'll hit some touchup on this as I go.
Let's get the milli.
The cabinet's going to have 11 total draws
and they're going to be this smaller size.
Five of them in the middle and then the larger size three on each side.
So now I need to do is cut these designs using the measurements from the cabinet
to make sure their space properly.
And then I can go out and sand them down and get them primed and paint.
Hoo! And while I'm waiting for the paint to dry out there,
now is a great time to start in on the drawers,
and I've already cut the sides of the drawers down to size.
Now, there's going to be 11 drawers in total. That's a lot of different parts.
So here's an example of a drawer that is not EDG banded.
And then here's an example of a drawer that is Ajibade Advantage is great
because it makes it look like solid wood to the untrained eye.
And you don't have those exposed pliers.
Now I use the iron on edge, bending that has the gluing on the back,
and I get it in big strips that you can put right on.
I've got an old iron that I got from Goodwill for about three bucks.
So after I heat up the banding and the glue starts to melt,
then I will use a couple of scrap blocks to press it down
and make sure that I get a good bond
and another one to move it around if it's off center at all.
And then there's just two specialty tools that make it a lot easier.
You could cut all the trim to size with a chisel.
I like to use a little flush int. Or on the end, it works great.
And then a little double
bevel trimmer that you can just put on each side and go down it.
You can get all these tools.
Maybe not the old clothes iron from Woodcraft,
who's been an amazing sponsor of the channel.
I'm going to have links down below
in the description to woodcraft NORCOM, where you can check them out.
They have tons of woodworking supplies and tools
and basically anything that you might need to do your woodworking projects.
So go check them out.
And a big thank you to woodcraft for being amazing sponsor of the channel.
I got about nine
of these jaw parts done, a few more to go, and that's only a quarter of the total.
So I need to rip the rest of these parts down.
EDG, ban them, plus finish up the second coats on the painting.
But for you guys, it'll just be a few seconds worth of high speed. The. He.
Well, the. School bus.
Yes, I've got all the jaw parts, all forty four of them here for 11 drawers.
And I went ahead and pre finished them, at least on the insides.
So I did not finish the outside of the front of the back
because those won't be seen.
And I only finished one side of the sides and all finished
the outside and the bottom layers. It's a lot easier to apply.
Finish before you do the assembly.
And I'm not going to be gluing any of these edges.
I'm going to go ahead and start assembling these with pocket screws.
And then we can put on the bottoms and we'll be ready to put this all
into the cabinet.
One down, 11 to go back and start.
One down, 10 to go.
I've got all the door boxes now, and none of them have bottoms on them,
so the last part is to cut quarter inch panels, and I can just glue down
that quarter inch bottom Securit with some nails.
We'll have a superstrong drawing.
Right now, I can start mounting in the jaw slides
and I'm going to be using a pair of full extension, jaw
slides, perjurer, and to mount these, I'm going to use some spacers that I've cut.
I've already done all the measurements. Again, these are in the plans.
If you're interested in the plans, link down below in the description
so you'll know exactly where to mount them.
But is these different sets of spacers?
And then Mantler slides up and then mount in the drawers afterwards.
Now the fun part, installing the drawers, and it's really going
start to come together.
So to install them, I like to put in a quarter
sheet of plywood at the bottom and that spaces the bottom jaw off again.
I've already got these all space, so I know exactly how they're going to fall.
And then I can put in the drawer on top of that,
and that slides in there nicely so I can attach them
by just pulling this out. Pre drilling and screwing it along.
And then I will take it fully out to attach the last screws
on the back of the drawer and work my way through the cabinet.
So to put it on the solid door
fronts, what I'm going to need to do is position everything.
And when you have this many drawers, that can be a challenge on the bottom.
I'm going to take a scrap piece of wood that I've drilled a couple of holes in,
and I'm going to put it underneath.
And I don't have a strip to go the whole length.
So I cut two strips in all attached, both of them.
Then I'll be able to rest the lower door fronts on there and line them up
all the way across the bottom all at once.
Now, I can just drill some holes in these drill boxes, lay out my drawers,
space, everything. Get them attached and then attach the handles.
For the top, I gave in and I hit the easy button.
I got a butcher block countertop to use on it is almost the perfect size.
So I'm going to have to do is cut it to length just a little bit
and get a finish on it.
This is just part
one of the total office makeover, and today we're focusing on these two walls.
The cabinet is going to go right behind me
here, and we're just going to paint these walls today.
So I'm going to take down all the shelving.
Susan's going to help me out here.
We're going to prep and get it painted for install.
Is this this cabinet has so many drawers.
You definitely want to make sure that you are attaching it to the wall.
That's why I have the cleats on the top and the bottom.
You want to go into studs
because if you pull all the drawers out, it will tip over and you don't want that.
So I'm going to go and get the drawers back in here.
We're going to put the top on and give you the reveal.
This is exactly what I wanted.
I've got a spot for my 3-D printer, as well as storage for the filament,
and I've got plenty of room to grow and add more
because I've got a lot of different drawers for different things,
like the puzzles I like to play with and can't really solve.
And I have a lot of space to really organize this and make this what I want.
If you don't build this kaminen, I've got plans available.
There's a link down below in the description
if you want to see more videos about storage and organization.
I'm going to play this cued up for you right there.
I think you're going to love that one.
I want a big thank you to all those folks have been joining the Builders Club.
And until next time, guys get out there and build something awesome.