Hey guys, Andrew Esquivel here back with another review.
Today I am not going to be reviewing another set of LED headlights, and I'm not going to
be reviewing another set of HID headlights.
I'm going to be reviewing these halogen headlights.
Now before you turn this video off, this is being made for a very particular and specific
reason.
If you've seen my videos where I review LEDs and HIDs, you'll know that every single kit
I have tested, and I have tested a number of them, all have a certain fatal flaw for
one reason or another that makes them unsafe to use.
If it's not safe to use, it's not worth having.
So I'm falling back to a technology that I know that works.
Something that is guaranteed to work in my headlight assembly.
Halogens.
I chose these particular halogens because they're the best of both worlds.
The Sylvania Silverstars are brighter than the standard ones and the color temperature
is a little better but it's not as bright as their Silverstar Ultras, which are known
for having a short life expectancy.
These bulbs are the 9007 socket and because it's not an aftermarket product, there's nothing
to worry about.
Everything will work with OEM parts.
The Kelvin temperature is around 4,000 and the Wattage that it consumes is 65 Watts.
Granted, these are only expected to last 200 hours, that's okay.
I've had my last set of Sylvania Silverstars last well over a year and a half.
The only reason they stopped working was because I took them out to replace them with an LED
headlight and I accidentally dropped one and touched the other one with my hand.
If I hadn't done that, they would have continued to work for a very long time.
I don't go with the Sylvania Silverstar Ultras for the very simple reason that the candle
that burns twice as bright burns half as long.
I want something better than the standard because I need to see in the dark well.
With all that being said, there's no real warranty that comes with these.
But the fact of the matter is as long as you install these properly, they will last a pretty
good amount of time.
One thing is recommended is, obviously do not ever touch the bulb itself.
The oils from your hands can get on the bulb and eventually the heat from the bulb will
heat up the oils and that will kill the bulb.
It's recommended that you use gloves to prevent that or at the very least hold it only by
the base.
Never touch the bulb.
I'm going to show you why halogens are still superior in a standard headlight assembly
that was designed for halogens.
Let's go ahead and take a look.
We are here at my 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander LS and as always right here is where we plug
in the light bulb.
Because this is an OEM bulb and there's nothing special to it, you just plug the bulb in,
put the circular retainer lock in place and plug in the power and that's really it.
Let's just go ahead and do it.
Literally within a matter of seconds, I have the new halogen headlight installed.
All we have to do is copy the same thing we did on the other side.
Once again we are outside in the same garage door we always look at the beam pattern on.
The beams are perfectly diffused where they need to be.
This is a low beam and that's high beam.
There's nothing wrong with these beams.
They're exactly the way they need to be.
Now that we've seen that, let's go on the actual road and see for real how they work
in the real world.
We are on the same road that I test every single light bulb on.
Every single LED and HID has been tested on this specific road and on the specific route
we're going to be going down and has been tested in this specific vehicle every single
time.
Right now we have the halogens on low beams and as you can see, there's no scattered beams,
there's no patchy spots, it's perfectly diffused and I’ve got probably 40 to 45 feet of usable
light.
If I switch over to high beams, the beam throw is a lot further down, probably upwards of
60 feet which is where they should be.
Keep in mind, these aren't the brightest halogens you can get either.
They're just mid-range halogens that are about $24.
This is what it should look like.
There's no beam scatter, there's no absurd beam angle that you get with some of the LEDs.
Instead of throwing down the road, LEDs tend to throw their beams and widened to the left
and right.
But with the halogens, it's doing what exactly it's supposed to do because it's in a housing
that was designed for it.
As always, let's go ahead and drive down the road.
We're going to go down the same exact path that I always go down.
The lights on the street are minimal.
The streetlights don't really do much around here.
We're going to travel to a spot in the neighborhood where there are no street lights which means
they'll be zero assistance for my car's headlights.
It'll just be the car producing light in front of us.
I feel completely comfortable driving with these bulbs in low beam in this area but I
can always do a high beam and see further down the road.
My lights are not projectors, they are reflectors.
There's different types of housing units for lights too and choosing the right bulb for
your housing unit is very important as well.
Some bulbs like LEDs claim to be adjustable for either but realistically, they just don't
do well on any of them and get a lot of reviews they're fake because they're given to them
for free.
Rabbit.
Don't want to hurt the little bunny.
Let me just readjust the camera here.
Once again, we are at the road that I always test things on.
This is the low beams, all right.
It's pretty dark but turn the high beams on and I can see everything.
What you're seeing on the camera is a little different than usual because these lights
are around 3800 to 4000 Kelvin.
Which means they're a little more amber which is how halogens work.
Because of that, you don't get the sharp color contrast that you would out of an LED or an
HID.
But you know what?
There's a huge difference in what we consider usable lights and throw distance.
The throw distance and usable light are far more importance than the color contrast.
There's a point at which down the road you can no longer safely see past.
That is what we consider usable light.
Throw distance is how far the lights will go in a single direction which should be in
front of you.
But sometimes bulbs just don't play nice when they're not in the right housing.
We've got a train coming on the left but luckily I’m going right.
I'm switching back over to my low beams and we're going to turn down another Road in which
I will switch off between high and low beams constantly so you get a good idea of the difference
of standard halogens.
Well granted these are a little bit above standard but for 25 bucks, they're actually
a little less than 25 bucks.
You really can't complain half the price of most decent LEDs, I guess you would say.
Granted most LEDs really aren't that great so I don't know why I said decent but low-range
LEDs half price.
We're going down the same road I always go down.
I'm going to be switching off, this is low beam, high beam, low beam, high beam, low
beam, high beam, low beam, high beam, low beam, high beam.
You get the idea.
I go back and forth like this because it's easier to see the difference between the two.
The main positive of the halogens is that when I put the high beams on or the low beams,
they're throwing the light in front of me.
Not out to the sides, not completely undiffused or scattered or patchy.
They do exactly what they're designed to do.
This doesn't mean I'm going to stop reviewing LED headlights either.
I'm on a quest to find something better than halogens but unfortunately, the technology
just isn't there.
For my own safety, for the safety of everyone around you, please, just because it looks
more cool to have white lights coming out of your car instead of these amber lights
doesn't mean it's safer, it doesn't mean it's any better.
Don't worry about aesthetics.
I hope this video has been informative.
Please comment, like, subscribe, check out my other videos, I've got plenty of them.
As always, I'll see you next time.
Drive safe.