Hello everyone, This is Teri from Tree Marie Soapworks. Today I'm going to be
showing you this layer soap and also show you how to make a pencil line or a
mica line in your soap. I have included the recipe and supplies down below. Okay
let's get started. First we add our sodium hydroxide to our cold distilled
water and then I also always measure out my sodium lactate right now so I don't
forget it later, when the lye solution has cooled. Sodium lactate is a natural
ingredient and it's used to make your soap harder and also it makes it release
from the mold a lot easier. The next ingredient is coconut oil. And then we
add our completely melted sustainable palm oil. And microwave until completely
melted. Next, we will be preparing our colorants. This time I wanted to show you
mixing your colorants in bags. his is a alternative to using the pellet knife
that I like to use this is completely not necessary. I just do it to take one
extra step to make sure that I don't have specks in my final bars.
I am diluting each of the Micas with a little bit of olive, oil just enough to
get it wet. The gold I used for the top and I didn't show that in this video
because I wasn't really happy with the way it came out.
This color is Coral Sparkles and this is Pretty in Pink and the turquoise is
called Tahitian Teal and then there's the white that's Titanium Dioxide and
these are all from Elements Bath and Body. I'm paying special attention to the
Titanium Dioxide because that one is notorious for clumps and specks in your
final bar. Okay now that we have our coconut oil and palm oil melted, we add
our shea butter to the warm mixture and microwave until melted. In the meantime I
have already measured my avocado, castor, and olive oil and now I'm adding it to
my melted hard oils. Okay now I have to decide what is one third of this batch.
Before I started I already took down the weight of my batter bowl. And then I
weighed my batter bowl and my oils and I subtracted the weight of my batter bowl
and divided by three. Now I'm measuring a third of my oils. And the same
thing for the lye solution you need to divide it by three, and I've already
figured that so I'm adding a third of my lye solution. Next I'm adding a
third of my total amount of kaolin clay which is a half a teaspoon. I'm
adding it to my oils before I add my lye solution so I can mix as much as I want
without getting any acceleration. And after it's completely mixed in and I'm
happy with it, I add my fragrance. Again it's a third of the fragrance.
And now we just add the measured third of our lye solution since I knew this
fragrance doesn't accelerate, I was okay to stick blend and then add the colorant,
but if this was a fragrance that would accelerate, I would go ahead and add the
coloring first. Get your mold prepared, and for the bottom layer I used
the coral sparkles colorant. You just cut the corner off the bag and add it to
your solution and mix it up.
And then I'm just going to add a little bit of titanium dioxide. I lightened
it up quite a bit here. If I had to do it again, I would probably not put so much
titanium dioxide in there, but it made a nice peach color. Okay, and you pour this
at light trace or almost medium trace, but you want to make sure you have a really
flat line. This one you don't want any bumps because this is a straight layer,
so you don't want it to be too thick of trace. And if you get anything on the
side of your mode when you're pouring make sure you clean that up so it's not
in your finished bar that way. Now it's time to make the mica line and for
this tutorial I used a fine mesh strainer but I think powder sprayer, if
you have one of those, works even better. And I used my palette knife just to help
me to get the mica to go where I wanted it to go. And here I'm trying to
clean off the excess mica. I found out later that if you wet your paper
towel with isopropyl alcohol, it works much better. I covered the mold with Plexiglas
to help it set up faster and also off-camera I set the timer for 15
minutes because you want your bottom layer to be set up before you add
your next layer, because it's really easy to break through. I forgot this first
layer, but on the second layer I show you that I used a bulb syringe (It's the
kind that you use for babies.) to blow off the excess mica on this layer and you do
that on all the layers because you don't want too much mica on there because your
layers might fall apart when you cut them.
And here you just repeat and measure a third of everything and go through the
steps again. And the next color will be the Tahitian Teal. The fragrance I am
using is called Modern Muse also from Elements Bath and Body.
And stick blend just until light trace and cut the corner of the bag and just
add your colorant, and then I add a little white as well to make it a light
blue. I'm going to for a spring color.
Okay it's ready now and I just take the top cover off the mold and you see how I
use the spatula to pour on that so I don't break through the layer. And again
I sift the Gold Rush mica on top.
And here's where I use the bulb syringe to get off any excess. And sometimes you can
see where you miss some parts and you can add more if you need to. Next,
I cover the mold again and I set the timer for 15 minutes. And just mix
together the last of the remaining ingredients which is your oils, kaolin
clay, fragrance, and then your lye water.
And just stick blend until light trace.
And add your Pretty in Pink mica solution, and a little bit of titanium
dioxide as well. I was going for a really soft pink color.
I get my spatula in and just pour it on top of the previous layer. So once I
finished pouring I always cover it with my plexiglass and then I use some saran
wrap and cover it after that. And I put it on a heating pad and set that on
either medium or high. It depends on what the ambient temperature is. And I usually
leave that on for thirty minutes or so, and then I just leave it tucked in. And
that way it usually makes the colors more vibrant if I put it through gel and
also it releases easier from the mold, it creates a harder bar, and I think it
causes less soda ash. I usually leave this open the mold for 48 hours
sometimes I do one day but most of the time I usually do two days.
This one I only did one day and I wish I had done two days. So I kind of clean up
the side there's a lot of excess mica that gets on there from the sifting of
the mica lines. And here I'm just dividing it by eight. When you make a
soap with a mica line in it, it's always better to cut it on its side, so that
when you're dragging the knife, you're dragging it in the same direction as the
mica line, so that you don't have any smears downward.
Today I'm using a knife to cut this batch sometimes I use a wire cutter.
Sometimes a wire cutter causes little dots, and when you use a knife it just
smears the whole thing, and makes it smooth so in this case I decided to use
a knife to cut this batch. I use the same technique in the soap as I used in my
Technique Video #1. I didn't narrate that particular video because I
was just learning video editing and, if you want to know how to make that one,
this one is a great one to show you how. The only difference was that I used four
layers instead of three, and also I did a bumpy layer instead of a smooth layer,
and I had the exfoliant vanilla-bean in the whole batch, kind a similar to the
kaolin clay in this batch. If you liked this video and would like to see more
like this, please give me a thumbs up and subscribe and also hit the bell if you
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watching and I'll see you next time!