Hey friends, this is the Mode 65. In this video, I’ll show you how to build it. Right now I have a
hotswap PCB on hand so this will be used as the prime example and more beginner friendly, but if
you have a solderable PCB, I will also explain the differences in each step where applicable as well
as what you need to do depending on which mounting style you’re going for. Let’s get started.
Now during the unboxing process, make sure you have all your pieces and tools before we begin.
You should have the SixtyFive keyboard top and bottom cases, the SixtyFive keyboard backpiece, one of the
plates of your choice, a SixtyFive hotswap or solderable PCB, a USB-C daughterboard along with the JST
cable, some bags of screws, gaskets, and tools; stabilizers, switches and keycaps of your choice.
Additionally, if you want as optional components you can get the silicone base
which would be required for the stack mount, and/or a plate foam for sound dampening.
I will also have a link to the SixtyFive build guide URL down below in the video description as
there is a checklist for parts, or you can just pause the video screen here before moving on.
You should also download the program VIA from caniusevia.com
as it will be needed to test your PCB and remapping keys for your own personal setup.
The Mode SixtyFive supports three different mounting styles;
top mount, isolated top mount, and stack mount which all can be easily changed in
a couple simple steps, allowing the user to try out different typing experiences.
First step, have the underside of the bottom case facing up and install the
rubber feet by aligning them down into the recessed channel of the four corners.
Step 2, connect the USB-C daughterboard to the PCB with the JST cable. Keep in mind the JST
cable will only go in one way, so be sure it’s facing the right orientation before pressing in.
Then open up VIA, and navigate to the Key Tester tab while enabling Matrix Mode.
Use a pair of tweezers and touch the back of the metal pads for each key switch to
make sure they’re all functional. If the switch works, it will light up.
If your keys are not lighting up, then you should contact MODE Design for support.
Step 3, detach the JST cable from the PCB and attach the daughterboard onto the bottom case
using the black M2x3 socket head cap screws, you should have four of these in total.
As with any screws, do not overtighten them or you may damage the components.
Step 4, installing the stabilizers.
Before you actually install them onto the PCB, you should have them assembled and ready to go.
Now assembling and lubing stabilizers are a completely separate piece of content, if you want
a tutorial for that, check out Taeha Types’ video which I will link down in the description below.
So installing the stabilizers, you’ll want to insert and hook the non-threaded end
into the larger cutout on the PCB, and then pivot the threaded ends into place like so.
While bracing the front of each stabilizer,
fasten the screws from the other side into place and again, do not overtighten.
Step 5, installing your switches. Make sure the two metal pins under the switch are straight.
If they are bent, use tweezers to straighten them out. If you plan on using the optional
plate foam for a more muted sound profile, lay it on top of the PCB right now.
With or without the plate foam, the next thing would be to lay the plate on top while
aligning it with the edges of the PCB. Be mindful that the plate goes on the front side of the PCB,
not the back side. Then you’ll need to fasten the plate screws via the
standoffs with the black M2x5 flat head screws. You should have three in total.
Quick note about switches, lubing them is generally recommended but not required.
If you want a tutorial for that, I will also have another link to Taeha’s video below as well.
Now you can begin inserting switches into the plate and PCB.
If you’re using a hotswap PCB, make sure to brace the socket in the back with a finger.
It is recommended that you start inserting switches along the corners and edges of the
plate and work your way towards the middle. Do not apply pressure into the plate itself.
If you’re using a solderable PCB, then you should start by inserting switches into the corners of
the plate first. Again make sure the two metal pins on your switches are straight. And if you’re
using the optional dampening plate foam, then you should lay down the foam on the PCB now.
Then align the plate with the PCB around the edges and press the switches in.
Step 6, continue installing the remaining switches. Note that regardless whether you’re
using a hotswap or solderable PCB, make sure that each of your switches are fully seated into the
PCB. You can tell by how much the switch legs and pins are sticking through from the backside
of the socket or not enough, so look closely. You also want to make sure the plate isn’t sagging.
You can easily fix this by bracing the PCB and the switch itself
and then pull the sagging plate upwards towards the switch until it clicks in place.
Assuming all your switches are fully seated and your plate is straight,
you may go ahead and solder your switches on.
Step 7, installing the plate caps. If you’re going for an isolated top mount or stack mount,
then slide the silicone plate caps onto the plate tabs.
But for the regular top mount configuration, please skip this step.
Step 8, this is only for stack mounted builds, place the silicone base into
the bottom case like so and fasten the eight M2x5 flat head screws in place.
So if you’re doing either the top mount or isolated top mount, please skip this step.
Step 9, place the top case face down and gently lower the assembled plate and PCB
into the top case. Secure the plate into the top case via the tabs along the top and bottom
edges with the six black M2x5 button head cap screws. If you’re doing an isolated top mount,
do not overtighten the screws as they will go past the silicone plate caps.
Step 10, align and insert the bottom case into the top case like so. Hold the bottom case
firmly with one hand and use your other hand to attach the daughterboard JST cable into the USB
header of the PCB. Make sure the JST cable is in the correct orientation before pressing in.
Close the bottom case onto the top case but make sure the cable
sits inside the recessed area of the bottom case.
Step 11, secure the bottom case by fastening the four silver M2x5 button head cap screws.
Again, do no overtighten the screws.
Step 12, install the magnetic backpiece by aligning it like so.
Step 13, install your keycaps. Side note, the Mode 65 plate also has
cutouts for the stabilizers where you can easily inject and add more lube
when and if desired to fix any rattling without having to disassemble the keyboard itself.
Step 14, open VIA again and check that all your keys are working properly.
You can also do this VIA check right before you insert your keycaps,
this way you’ll know if any of your switches were not installed correctly.
And you’re all done, that’s it for how to build the Mode 65.
If you have any questions or comments, please drop them down below,
thumbs and subs for more keyboard content here, thanks for watching and I’ll catch you next time.