I am adding to my series of videos
demonstrating Flat Pattern Drafting
Once you have drafted a sleeve to your own measurements
how do you find the balance marks on the bodice?
If you compare the armhole measurement
with the sleeve crown
you will find that the sleeve is a ½” to ¾” or so larger
This is the ease that is necessary
to accommodate the bulge at the top of the arm
The best positions for matching the sleeve into the armhole
are the B and F points
It is not necessary or desirable to match at the underarm
If you look at the bodice block
the front bodice is in fact significantly wider
than the back bodice
The side seams are set towards back
And when we come to drafting more sleeve blocks
for example the fitted and tailored sleeves
you will see that the sleeve seam
is often moved to a different position
The Top Arm point is marked but be aware also
that the bodice shoulder seam
can move around according to style
So to find B and F on the bodice
align T on the sleeve to the Shoulder Point
on the back bodice
We are going to roll the sleeve along the seam
I just anchor a matching point on the sleeve with my pencil
and rotate the sleeve along its path
When you have B aligned with the armhole
mark B on the Bodice
but mark it about ¼” or so above
This will give you a little of the ease
for the back portion of the sleeve
Turn the sleeve over and match the marked Bs
Rotate as before
At the underarm
there will be sleeve seam left over
This is transferred to the front bodice
so make a temporary mark for U on the sleeve
Move the sleeve to the front bodice
matching the U points
and make a temporary mark on the front bodice
showing where the sleeve ends
Slide the sleeve across
to match the opposite side of the sleeve to this point
so that we can rotate the front sleeve seam
along the front armhole seam
Rotate as before until F on the sleeve
is against the armhole
and so mark F on the bodice
Turn the sleeve over again
As you continue to rotate the sleeve along the armhole
you will find T falls a little beyond
the Shoulder Point on the bodice
This is the ease as mentioned before
This method will give you a perfectly balanced
set-in sleeve
It will hang straight and the small amount of ease
will disappear in the sewing process
Mark in your F and B positions
That is the Straight Sleeve Block completed
Watch my video on sewing in a set-in sleeve
an episode of Making the Roll Collar Coat
and also on YouTube
Please visit my site angelakane.com
Videos, Patterns and eBooks for members
I am developing my ideas about sewing
sewing patterns and pattern cutting
Pattern cutting is not just for designers
People used to know how to make
and adapt clothes in their own style
Let’s bring back that skill
Thank you for watching