this is the instructions video for the
shape of workstation in this video we're
going to go through the workstation
using it alongside origin how to get the
best out of it
we're gonna start with all the
components break them down look at all
the features see how they go together
and then walk you through a few
configurations that common ones that
you'll use here's the shape of
workstation as it comes in the package
clamping face is on the back so we pop
that off first here's the clamping face
lots of slots for clamps and we actually
include some clamps that get you going
we'll get more into the details of that
in a second here is the main body this
is the underside so you'll see there's
actually some tapped mounting holes for
various work surfaces little rubber feet
so that when you flip it around and
place it on your work surface
it just doesn't jiggle about too much so
then this little protrusion here enables
us to clamp to this there's a slot for
MFT tabletops where you can fit your
clamps through there and then there's
holes for if you want to permanently
mount or you know screw it into your
work surface so we'll do that here to
start with so I'm just using some
washers this is the sort of more
destructive but super straightforward
way to mount it
now that's fixed in place not going
anywhere so what we have here is a super
flat plain of tape with a durable
adhesive across the top of it so this
means we don't have to keep using shaper
tape that's going to remain in place and
then we're gonna work out in front of
that so this front face has been
machined to exactly 90 degrees so you
can always be confident you're at 90
degrees no matter where you mount your
clamping face three locations here we
can mount it flush with the top so
that's just ever so slightly below your
tape plane but if you need to cut and
you're going to intersect with those
aluminium there's two different options
we can lower it down to the 25
millimeter height
and that's a spur board that will fit
behind there or we can go down one more
to the 50 millimeter height and we have
a spoil board that will fit there so
we'll put a clamping face on the 25
millimeter height so this is at the 25
millimeter height and then you'll notice
it's sitting loose at the moment we just
tighten these up it doesn't have to be
too insane
now we have a very strong 90 degree
relationship between these two planes
now these are the vertical alignment
pins you notice everything's been
developed as a system so everything's
using the same 4 millimeter hex wrench
and we include that they just back out
and give you a perfect vertical
reference edge it's a really cool little
feature so they stow away when you don't
need them but this will get us at
perfect 90 degree angle every time and
it's always going to be in a consistent
location because we index using this
system that's all guaranteed to index
into the same location every time and we
have symmetrical pair that lock in on
the opposite side exactly the same idea
that's a known index point that's never
going to change that you can confidently
come back to at any stage here are some
examples using the vertical alignment
pins we should put two of these clamps
with the shape of workstations so you
can see they work great for most
situations straight off the bat but also
the t-slot our industry standard eight
millimeter slot at the top with a
machined 15 millimeter tee and behind so
most the clamps you have sitting around
that are standard designed 40 slots will
actually work in here perfectly well as
well so now we're gonna look at how we
attach spoil board the sport boards are
made of nice MDF 25 millimeters high and
50 millimeters higher we ship two of
these they're user replaceable you can
make your own and we include the
dimensions in the manual the spoil board
prevents your stock from chipping out as
the cutter passes out the backside of
the material it also provides space for
the cutter to travel without colliding
with the aluminium body or clamping face
so you'll notice there's a gap behind
our spoil board here so I'm going to
tension this with these little cams
you'll see how it comes out and applies
pressure from behind this
oil board so we can use the hex wrench
here again with the spoil board there
we're going to just slowly apply
pressure and you'll see it come out and
just touch your object you don't want
force otherwise the front face that
you're indexing against it'll be pushed
proud of that so we just want it to
touch that and then you match that
distance with the others you'll still
feel it just touch but you don't want it
to push it so that means now our spoil
board is preventing chip out behind our
object with the pressure coming from
this little cam clamping face is already
a spoil board is prepped we're at the
right height on to the next phase now
going to show you how to support origin
out beyond the surface here we have the
support arms so we're going to create a
little platform out the front here for
supporting origin as it can to leave us
out over this surface if you were to do
a big ten and you want to make sure
origin doesn't Rock as it comes out the
front so these are removable enabling us
to clamp any number of you know long
strange shapes in here but we can always
put these back to the same location if
you ever have doubts about the height of
these in the bottom here you'll see a
little sets group that can be adjusted
to change the height of this just up and
down ever so slightly should you need to
make an adjustment there so here are the
two support arms they slot down there
and you'll notice they sit loose until
you tighten them up and we're gonna do
up the little ox screw this is now very
sturdy and here's a little detail I like
the locking screws have a little
elongated point which gives you a quick
idea of what state they're in so they're
currently locked unlocked so you can see
now loose this and then when you lock
them they both face in basically the
same direction there this is the support
bar there's some little clamps that
in here quickly secure this in place so
the pressure that these apply can be
adjusted here there should be set
appropriately from the factory but if
you're able to move it around you can
just tighten and loosen
and these have a little nylon attachment
so they don't move so it's a very sturdy
very flat very consistent surface that
this surface matches our tape surface so
notice these little mounting points here
these are designs so that the support
bar attaches and then that gives you a
very clean reference height four zero so
we can now keep these two points engaged
and push this up and you'll see at the
top there I get a very confident zero
point now that we have a plane set up a
support bar is coplanar with our tape
field we can confidently run origin
across here without cantilevering our
hitting any bumps and that will enable
us to accurately cut safely and
precisely throughout next up we're going
to look at how to fit a tenon at an
angle this is like a stool leg or
something you'll notice the standard
indexing pins not much help to us so
here's how we'd start out with our stop
that we want a fixture in here something
like this we have the ability to do that
here's the angle fence which will help
us fixture and whatever angle up to
about 45 you notice the two index pins
serve as a reference and then we have a
little 8 millimeter screw there which
can be done up firmly or with a lot of
these you can loosely tighten things
just while you're working and then
tension them up the whole way for this
particular operation we're going to use
the support bar in this state to get us
a reference angle here now we can
continually come back to that location
with future chair legs ready to go
so that's now fixed and we're ready to
cut notice even with this all fixed it
up we can still get in here and mount
this at one of the alternative heights a
lot of effort has been put into making
sure various touch points are accessible
regardless of what state you're in there
so this is now the 50 millimeter height
same process again our angle hasn't
changed so that doesn't need adjusting
you just bring this up now make sure
these aren't doing major talking
operations as you tighten them up you
can get it so that it's pulling away
from your index points if you don't have
them nicely aligned at the beginning but
that's ready to go make sure you leave
enough clearance here for whatever
cutter to clear your material so here
you can see we've got a flat plane
support bar and our tape field are all
100% coplanar and that enables us to cut
this element and smoothly transition
across it even though we can't leave
that a long way up from the original
support body the support bar actually
takes care of us and guarantees us safe
precise operation with our origin to
create a shape like this
to provide flexibility we'll get the
alignment pins on the right hand side as
well so you can flip and rotate the
angle friends 45 degrees in the opposite
direction
and have two setups or just more ranges
of angles you can use here's a shelf
this enables us to quickly clamp things
in place and work on small awkward
elements quickly and efficiently so it's
set up in a way we have these T slot
attachments which fit in these channels
here combined with a quick release lever
that has three position the lowest
position is kind of free-floating the
second position is a little firmer and
then the final position is fully clamped
so that's locked in place so that
enables us to very rapidly get elements
ready to go so we'd put it in the second
location bring it up a little high with
our support bar we can press it down
confirm we're aligned and then bring it
all the way up to clamp it in place now
this element is coplanar to our type
field and we're ready to cut it really
efficient reduces the barrier to getting
projects up and running the spoil board
on top cup files will be available by a
shape-up so the idea is you can expand
upon this replace this adapted so here's
a quick example of one I've been using I
have these little hole pattern and
Hinn's I can place wherever I like you
can make whatever you wish that'll give
you a lot of flexibility there here's an
example of a great little project that
traditionally is quite hard to work hold
here's the original stock you'd start
with traditionally you'd end up sort of
shimming areas around this to get the
same height for your tape field as this
we're gonna work with a little shelf
here see here we have a really robust
aluminium framed shelf with a little
custom spoil board on top and a little
canned lever to lock it in place
but it'll slot into these channels and
then so in this state it moves with just
a modest amount of friction which is
quite good for getting things prepped to
the right height and then we've also got
the ability to really clamp it all the
way up and at that point it's basically
fixed notice at the bottom these don't
continue the whole way through you don't
have to worry about pushing it down too
far and having it fall on your feet and
damage anything so it only comes out the
top which means you need to remove the
oil board
and in this case we're actually gonna
bring this up to its top position the
same process because we're cutting
inside the stock we don't have to worry
about colliding with this with the spoil
board which would have been here we
don't have to worry about the cutter
colliding with the aluminium notice it
doesn't collide with your vertical
indexing pins if you leave them out by
mistake and then we would double-sided
tape this in place because there's a
little bit of friction here I can sort
of put it anywhere I like and then same
process we can bring it up and use that
to reference for height and we can even
use that to reference there if we were
to do like a production run of several
of these we would do that and then clamp
it down so that then would be how to
place getting my double sided tape
prepped now if a clamp it in place at
that height it's always gonna be the
right height you notice and smooth and
flat the whole way out here and I can
now cut whatever shape I want into this
and also replace it with the next piece
of stock should I want to do more than
one that's nice and secure with the
shape of workstation there's a couple of
options for probing strategies there's
one that's probing your stock itself the
way we often do so two probes for the
x-axis to measure this point so bring
the cutter down touch the edge - and
then y-axis with three so that gets you
a zero point here now that's specific to
this particular piece of wood the
alternative is to probe the actual
leading edge of the workstation instead
of probing your wood you bring the
clamping face up to its top position so
that we can probe it here so this is the
x-axis - and then this stock is actually
indexed against this pin so that gets me
a y-axis that's zero on that pin you'll
see we've got a probe shank exposed
there we're gonna bring that down lower
it down so that we're touching this edge
so we can probe against this side once
so we'll take it over to the left side
and we're going to make sure we don't
fall into one of those t-slot tracks and
then just touch it lightly probe X and
then we come around and probe this edge
because it's indexed against that pin so
now we have this workspace where zero
zero point is this top edge of this
stock and any stock we put in there so
long as it indexes against that pin and
is sitting against this clamping face
that's going to be zero zero so if I use
this anchor point and align it to zero
zero I'm aligned in that top corner
obviously in this state we don't want to
cut this and collide with this panel but
we can drop that down and that indexing
plane is gonna remain unchanged so
you'll see if I was to come back and
reuse this workspace my stock is gonna
remain in here as though it was this
even though I could have inserted a new
element that's a different shape to
perform this mortise in the top of this
organic chair element we'll create our
own little custom fixture notice of back
to these out so the vertical alignment
pins ready to go and notice there's two
holes here one is for the vertical
alignment pin the other is for eight
millimeter screwed to fixture things in
place so this one is cut really
accurately to make sure there's not a
lot of play there so you get consistent
alignment each time you fixture it up
and the other one is just so that it can
be pressed against this surface firmly
now I've got my support arms out and I
can set this in here like so we get
positive alignment here we could see
that's held in place appropriately then
we just tighten these up so we check
here
everything's fixtured so quickly we can
mortise this out and what would have
been quite a challenging task to align
accurately even just work hold
he's now a walk in the park with custom
fixture and then you can see we flip
this 180 degrees and we can cut the
one fixture two parts nice and efficient
so as you can see the workstation itself
whilst being feature-rich is only a
starting point you can continue make all
your own fixtures make your own shelves
and take it in any direction you need to
achieve the job at hand thanks for
tuning into our workstation overview
series we're looking forward to seeing
these in the field and seeing where you
all take these this is just a starting
point obviously it's a very robust
accurate consistently indexable system
that means that origins always well
supported throughout the cutting
operation as is your stock and we can
guarantee that it's all aligned at the
appropriate angles fixtured in place
robustly ready to get working which is a
common challenge that everyone
encounters usually they have to work
around it with MDF and all sorts of
crazy custom jigs we're hoping to take
care of most of that here meaning your
ideas precipitate sooner you're more
productive
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you