Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com, and welcome back to our final installation
on our 2009 YFZ450R top end project.
Pretty much all we have to do now is just finish getting it assembled and fire it up.
So if you're ready, lets go.
Welcome to the tool bench.
Listen, depending on which episode you're watching right now, I'm going to go over all
of the tools you're going to need to either take it apart or put it back together.
So let's go through it.
On the ratchet side, as always, we're gonna have a 3/8ths and a 1/4 inch.
You're going to have various sockets associated with that ranging from an 8 up to a 17.
The only oddball one is this thin-walled 16.
On the Allen side, you need to go all the way down to a 3 and up to this 14.
On the extensions you want to have varying lengths to get in and around the engine.
Just makes life simpler.
The wrench side?
Really short.
Just a 10 and a 12.
Decent set of side cutters, needlenose pliers, couple of different pick tools, always like
having a little magnet extension as well.
Never hurts to have around.
A couple of standard screwdrivers, flatblade and Phillips, then you also want to have a
good breaker bar.
You also want to have a good torque wrench because it's going to be definitely needed
when we go to put everything back together.
Now, if you would, reference our exploded parts diagram.
That's going to give you a very clear picture of how everything is going to come apart and
more importantly how it's gonna go back together.
So once you've got your tools and your parts together, we can go over there and I can walk
you through it.
So let's go.
Alright guys, when we left off, Ihad just installed the spark plug.
Now, we just need to finish that off by putting in the spark plug cap.
From there, we're going to connect our radiator lines up to the top of the engine, and its
associated clamp.
Alright, let's get this front cable bracket on.
Next, let's go ahead and do the upper engine mount because you still need some room to
wiggle it around there and I don't want to do the intake before this goes in place.
Trick with this bracket is to get it in place and start your upper bolts and then put the
bolt through that goes actually through the head.
Alright, so we've got our upper head mount bolt in place.
We can just snug these down and then we'll torque them here in a couple of minutes.
Alright, before we put this cover on, what I want to do is just rotate it over one time
to make sure I don't have any interference.
There's your compression, so we're good to go.
Alright, our top two bolts are 24 foot-pounds, and then that 8mm Allen is going to be 29.
Alright, with that bracket in place, we can go ahead and get on our breather hose that
goes to the valve cover.
Let's snake this around and then get this line attached.
Like so.
You got a couple of 5mm Allens, one on the side right here, and go ahead and start the
one on the front and get those snugged down.
Alright guys, let's go ahead and take care of getting the intake put on to the throttle
body.
Want to take note of the clamp, has this little indentation up at the top that'll be a corresponding
section of the intake boot where that needs to slide on.
Alright, next need to get the throttle body pushed in and I use a little bit of parts
cleaner to spray down on the front edge.
That makes it easier to it to go in.
There she goes.
And then there's a 4mm Allen that you need to tighten back down o the clamp.
Next we want to bring in the air box, wiggle it onto the backside of the throttle body,
then get it bolted in place.
Same trick as before, wet the intake boot.
Alright, I've got her down and in place, but now we've got to make sure that we push it
forward to get the boot up onto the throttle body.
That should be it.
Now, we can reach in there and tighten that rear clamp.
alright, let's get these two bolts on the back of the airbox then we're going to drop
down to the side where this little breather adapter box mounts to the airbox.
There's just a singe 10mm bolt that goes in.
Alright, we're going to go ahead and get at least two of these bolts in for this bracket.
There's a piece of the bodywork that actually gets sandwiched in there.
So we'll leave the other two bolts out for the time being.
Then we're going to move on to the exhaust system.
Gonna do the head pipe first, then the muffler.
My gasket, the copper one that goes up inside the head, it actually looks okay so I'm going
to go ahead and torque it back down.
But if it leaks, then I'll just pull it back off later and replace it.
When you're putting this piece on, you just want to get it in place and just start these
two 12mm bolts but don't tighten it down yet because we needed to go ahead and shimmy the
muffler on there to get it to line up right.
There's a whole lot of play here, and the chances of you guessing exactly which angle
it's going to be?
Pretty much about zero.
Alright, with both of those at least started, now we can go ahead and tighten the two exhaust
bolts.
Get this junction right here and then the muffler mount bolts.
Next we need to get in that little tray that goes beneath the fuel tank.
It just lays in there like that.
Next, let's lay in our fuel tank.
Drop it down and just shimmy it forward.
Just one bolt back at the back.
Reconnect our fuel line.
Then push that down.
Connect up the power.
Now let's go ahead and fill our cooling system.
before I can fill it, I need to replace the drain bolt, which is right down here.
Now with that in place, we can go ahead and start refilling it.
It's total capacity should be around 1.3 quarts.
We put in one and it's pretty much up to the top, so what I'm going to do is go ahead and
top off the reservoir down here, put the cap on, and then we're going to do our first start.
Let it idle for a couple of minutes, then we'll come back and check it.
So, I was getting ready to fill up the reservoir for the radiator, and that fluid's looking
a little rough.
So I'm going to use this brake bleed MityVac to pull out the fluid that was in there and
refill it with some fresh coolant.
Now, let's go ahead and get it refilled.
There we go.
Now get our line back in there.
Alright, let's get our radiator cap back on.
Let's go ahead and connect up that battery, crank it up, let it idle for about a minute,
and then I want to check the level on that radiator fluid.
Just repriming the fuel system.
That should be it.
The moment of truth, here we go.
Alright guys, for an initial start up that sounded pretty good.
I went back, I checked the oil level, that's looking good.
Added a little more coolant.
What I wanted to do next is go ahead and open up this building to where we can let it idle
without killing ourselves.
Get out a fan, get some air going in front of it, and let it idle coming up to temperature.
That's going to take in between five and six minutes.
Somewhere in that neighborhood, and we're going to be watching it the whole time, make
sure there's no leaks, no weird sounds, and just let it come up to temp.
What I'm doing right now is using a digital thermometer, and if you don't have one of
these devices, just let it idle until the fan comes on.
providing of course that your works.
Once it's done that, you've completed the first heat cycle.
Just at an idle, then we're going to shut it off.
Well alright guys, that was her first heat cycle.
Everything sounded really good.
Once it's cooled down, you want to check your levels just one more time at the radiator,
down at your reservoir, and then check your oil.
Crank it up one more time, let it idle a few seconds and then check your level.
Well, everything checked out, so it's time to get the plastics on.
Well alright guys, that wraps this one up.
The only thing I have to do now is take it out and break it in.
I typically run about 45 minutes to an hour, never opening up the throttle all the way,
and varying my speed a bunch.
Well listen, if you need any parts for your machine, why don't you come see us at Partzilla.com
and we can get you taken care of.
Have any questions or comments?
Leave them in the section below and I'll do my best to answer them.
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Have a great day.